Rosebud

:wink: I agree with Carol. Are you currently exhibiting her in Conformation classes, even if you acquired your bitch from a proven line you should still have her evaluated in this setting to assure that she has the proper structure and movement to achieve what the breed was originally bred for. Have you consulted your breeder for his/her opinion as to whether breeding your bitch would better the current gene pool. Breeding is a serious committment, are you prepared to take back every pup in the litter if it's neccessary to keep them out of the shelters and give guarantees against health defects and temperment. :angel:

:-? What do you all think. The heat that Sally got bred in in my dream is her Spring of 2004 heat. I still have her Fall of 2003 heat to go through as well, which should start around the 1st of July. :angel:

:D :o :wink: I dreamed last night Sally-Rose got pregnant. Thought I would share my dream. I dreamed that I met someone who had a very good RR, we became friends and I started visiting them with Sally so she could play with their boy. Well one day a very respected, hard to get a dog from breeder (kennel name withheld) came by to have a look at Sally and she brought some of her dogs with her. A bad thunderstorm came up and we went downstairs to close the windows, leaving the babies upstairs. When we got back upstairs Sally-Rose was laying on the bed bleeding and very swollen, and both her and the really good male RR went panting very hard. I starting getting really really upset, screaming she's not old enough, I haven't had her health tests done, what are the results of the male, what do I do now. The breeder lady was a little upset with me as well she started criticizing me that I brought Sally over there on purpose hoping they would lock, she said you should have known better than to let a bitch in heat play with an entact male. I got really mad and went off on her, I told her that I still needed to wait one more year before breeding her and that she wasn't due to come in heat for another month. The breeder lady replied well there nothing we can do now but hope it didn't take or that they have some really good babies together. That's where I woke up sweating. :angel:

:D Getting puppy fever again, and it doesnt' help that I dreamed that Sally-Rose was pregnant. I can't breed her until the spring of 2005. Precious little angels, absolutely precious. :angel:

:D Honorable thing you did and a valid reason to take a pup from their mom at such a young age. Now I will say that it would have been ideal to just give supplements to the pup while it was with it's mom but it seems the breeder just had too many to take care of. It took one person 24/7 and 4 feeding time assistants to tend a litter of 9 for just 4 weeks. Don't listen to that other forum, they are just being mean and probably sitting back laughing about it. :angel:

:D Rowie, Me and my friend order from their at least once a month. Sometimes the orders come really fast, sometimes it's a couple of weeks. They are a reputable company. Have your mom check out the company info, guarantees and security policy. If she still has a problem email a request for a catalog and mail the order in with a check. I would definately in your situation spray the whole yard, front and back and along the base of the house and if possible spray the underside of the trees. I know you and your Aunt will get Rowie back into shape and maybe your mom will let you bring Rowie back inside to keep her away from the ticks. :angel:

:wink: Good luck, you will eventually find the pup that is meant to be with Freebee. :angel:

:D :wink: That's pretty much what happens in my household too, although I do always feed them after me, mainly because they get the leftovers and since it can be pretty dangerous for two RR's trying to push by you through a doorway, they must wait till I tell them it's o.k. I guess my point was that you have a functional pack, therefore a pecking order within your household is not necessary. I think that may be where some confusion may be, Pack Order is not neccessarily the same as Peck Order, I do not allow my household to practice Peck order although I do try to maintain a healthy Pack Order. :angel:

:wink: Let's see how Sally-Rose would do! CGC Test Procedures The purpose of the Canine Good Citizen Program is to ensure that our favorite companion, the dog, can be a respected member of the community. To receive the CGC certificate, dogs take the 10 item Canine Good Citizen Test. Items on the test include: Test Item 1: Accepting a friendly stranger [color=red]Yes she likes people, too![/color] This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator. [color=red]So close, I don't think wagging dog is an acceptable position. F[/color] Test Item 2: Sitting politely for petting This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment. [color=red]We won one, wait NO a wagging dog can't be in a sit position F![/color] Test Item 3: Appearance and grooming This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. [color=red]Great Sally loves to be brushed...[/color] The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears [color=red] Ouch, great until the ears, now examiner has a busted nose from her shaking her head[/color] and gently picks up each front foot. [color=red]Well, they would have had a chance if she wasn't already irritated by the ear thing F[/color] It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout. [color=red]Might possible make it through this one since I can give commands, will go ahead a give a Pass[/color] Test Item 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead) This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired. [color=red]Great if I can use her show lead, O.K. if I have to use her play lead. Will Pass Her[/color] Test Item 5: Walking through a crowd This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash. [color=red]Claustropobic Crowd-F Normal Crowd-Pass[/color] Test Item 6: Sit and down on command - staying in place This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side. [color=red]Does anyone understand the attention span of a hound and can I use her bed for the down, she's really funny about laying on the ground? F[/color] Test Item 7: Coming when called This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog. [color=red]she might actually do this since it's only 10 feet if I could get her to stay long enough.[/color] Test Item 8: Reaction to another dog This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of 20 to 30 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler. [color=red]Well, we would win this one, if I can give her commands.[/color] Test Item 9: Reaction to distraction This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise. [color=red]We got that one too.[/color] Test Item 10: Supervised separation This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. [color=red]I wonder if a RR pulling an evaluator the direction I went could be classified as a successful separation. F[/color] :angel:

:wink: But with his [b]"Look at ME!!!!"[/b] attitude he's sure to get some notice in the group ring. I would still recommend sending him out to at least one big show a month with a pro, let them evaluate whether they would be able to have a chance with him a the Garden and go from there. :angel:

[quote name='Kiger']Kato went back to back to back and took a 5 point, a 4 point, and a 3 point major so he's done and I don't need to show him anymore unless I want to. Now what do I do? :lol:[/quote] Girl, you got some top quality stuff, [b]Campaign him[/b]. That's some big deal wins, especially at his age. Send him with a professional handler to the really big shows. BIS winners are also invited to both Westminster and Eukanuba, and you can jump up in the standings with Group 1 wins. :angel:

[quote name='Mama A.J.']too cute!!! :lol: I think sometimes my dogs wish I would back off, I just can't get enough of my buggers, awww...they are so darn cute and cuddly!!![/quote] I get that, "Mom, I'm trying to sleep" look from Sally every-night when I tuck her in. :angel:

:-? [quote]I don't mean to just jump right in, but in no situation do I think it is okay to give a pup away at any age younger than 8 weeks. [/quote] I will agree that if at all possible the pups should stay with mom until at least 8 weeks old and if possible 9 weeks. However there are some emergency situations where you would pull a pup from their mother. Sally and Rocket were taken from their mom at 1 day old. There mom got sick and almost died (big story, will not go into on this thread), anyways she had to go on IV since she was de-hydrated. Every time she heard the pups cry her milk would drop and she would start to de-hydrate. We had to take the pups and bottle-feed them or momma dog would die. We kept them all together till they were 4 weeks old, then split them into two groups of 4 till they were 8 weeks old. Angelboddy glad you came here about this, everyone's really nice and very helpful. :angel:

:D Three words! THE BIG POND :angel:

:D Good point Mouse. :angel:

[quote name='alicat613']Well what appeals to you? What do you consider a large dog? For some a lab is big, for me that is small. One good way (and fun for the whole family) to look at dogs is to go to an all-breed dog show. You can find them in your area at [url]http://www.infodog.com[/url] Understand that breeders there may be too busy to talk. If you see dogs you like, you can approach a handler after ringtime and ask if it is a good time to talk. Buy a show program (about $10) and make notes of the dogs you like. Research the breeds, both through breed sites, the breed clubs and breeders. Learn about their personalities, health issues and what health tests to look for. Learn how to choose a [u]reputable[/u] breeder. Be honest about your lifestyle, what you want in a dog and how much time you have to spend.[/quote] This is a great way to start, when your at the dog-show write down the names of ALL the dogs that appeal to you as far as size and structure; from this list you will research temperment, activity level, maintenance, health etc. Once you narrow your search down to around 5-10 breeds start visiting breeders and interacting with the dogs and ask the breeder tons of questions, from there you will be able to start researching pedigrees and be able to pick the best and healthest all-round breed for your family. I would not rush this process, take your time and understand the commitment you will make to owning a dog is the same as deciding to have a child, it's a life-time commitment. Don't settle for a pup from a store or mill/BYB stick with the reputable breeders that have health guarantees, you will pay more upfront with a reputable breeder but you could end up paying more in the long run with a dog without these guarantees if it ends up having health problems or hip problems. Hope this had helped. :angel:

:D :wink: I would bombard the rescue with family and friends references, schedule another playtime session with Freebee and Theo. The shelter will get the idea you really want this pup and that the two dogs will get along and eventually give in. :angel: Who do I write my letter to? :angel:

:D [quote]Rosebud--Your almost right..Actually I am Alpha--My mom and dad are about equal and are Beta and my brother is next then there is Zebra. I know males are usually the Alpha but in this case I am. I train Zebra and spend most of my time with him.[/quote] Starfox - What I meant by your parents being Alpha & Beta is that Zebra is aware of them being your Alpha's and like what is sterotypical in a household the wife is the Beta to the husband's Alpha, therefore you would be third down the pack order with your brother next and zebra last. I hope this clarify's what I meant by your household's pack order. Gooeydog, Cassie & Horsefeathers - I would like to point out that if you thoroughly understood pack order you would realize that you DO follow pack order, your dogs are just content on where they are in your pack. I live with two Rhodesian Ridgebacks and an Italian Greyhound. In my household I am Alpha, my dogs will listen to me ALL of the time, I did not train with intimidation but with authority, I scolded bad behavior and rewarded good behavior. I can take anything I want away from any one of the four-legged children in my household at any time I please (including my cats, even Miss Kitty who was a wild field cat when I got her). Sandy the IG is higher up and I keep her there so that the RR's will respect her with her being so much smaller than them. Sandy and Rocket have this thing with the toys which are community property. Whatever they have the other one wants it. They are usually very good about working it out themselves but if Rocket steals from Sandy I give it back to her, if he growls over any toy I take that toy away from ALL of them. By my doing this I AM INFACT keeping the pack order where I WANT IT. I practice basic obedience everyday with them, if it's nothing but asking them to sit before they get a cookie. When they are allowed to run at the park all I have to say is "To Far" and they come back towards me, I can tell them to "Leave It" if they are comtemplating to roll in something gross or chase after something (understand my hounds, all three of them, have very strong prey drive). In a true pack setting if the Alpha dog is highly displeased and decides to get involved in the situation a strong glance is sufficient, well that's all I have to do and they know. Now Sally did challeng me once for Alpha and she lost and now respects her place in the pack. A healthy pack is completely based on how strong the Alpha is and how much respect the Alpha has, without it you have get dominance issues and aggression. :angel:

Cassie, Allow me to elorborate: There is a total of 5 in the pack at Starfox's home, based on her concern of the situation I would interpret the pack order as follows. Father - Alpha Mother - Beta Starfox - next Brother - next (out of respect to the Alpha from Zebra) Zebra - last. Zebra challenged one of his Alpha's over the headband and won, he then challenged the Beta and in effect still won. He then challenged the Alpha and won when the alpha walked away when zebra growled over being petted). At this point Zebra [u]has established himself as Alpha [/u] and is attempting to run the true Alpha away from the pack (following father and growling and nipping at feet). He has in fact gone from the bottom of the pack to the top in one episode.This now makes a touchy situation dangerous. The pack order has to be re-established in a certain way. It is extremely important that Starfox be higher up in the pack order over Zebra, therefore she is the one who should re-establish pack order. I will interpret her concern over zebra biting her brother as he is not strong or experienced enough to re-establish the pack order himself. Starfox then attempts to subdue zebra by standing over him in an authoritive position to which he challenges by growling at her, [b]the next step[/b] would be to perform the alpha roll. Now had she backed away from him at this point and allowed her father to challenge zebra for alpha, zebra would have only moved down to number 2 in the pack and the issue betweem him and starfox would still have to be addressed. Starfox assumes the roll position and zebra resists with severe aggression, Starfox is supported by her father standing over the whole incident ("growling" with the broom) to keep zebra in check. Now Starfox has acknowledge that she was trained to do this and understands the importance of winning this particular challenge. [quote]we learned to do this in training class, [/quote]. Now with Starfox assuming the role and her father backing her up with the position zebra finally reliquishes his new position to them and Starfox banishes him from the pack by confining him to the laundry room. In this particular situation with Starfox and Zebra [b]she did the right thing. [/b] Now that he has reliquished the Alpha position they can re-introduce him to the pack in his proper position. This should be done with her trainers help and should result in a functional pack. :angel:

:wink: [quote]Next - NEVER let him enter a doorway before you. If he tries, grab the lead and make him sit, then you go through first. EVERY time. I cant stress enough that this is a process that you have to do continuously, and every member of your family has to as well. You are retraining him in the alpha position role, he needs to understand that he is subservient to you and every family member in your house. [/quote] This is very, very valuable. Once I started doing this with Sally-Rose she almost immediately quit purposely ignoring my commands. Now I have to tell her when it's o.k. for her to enter before me, like getting into the car, she will not get in till I tell her to. Cassie, Assuming the Alpha position is valuable in CERTAIN situations. Zebra had already tried to bite, would not give the hairband back to anyone. Starfox was apparantly aware of the danger involved and that if this position was necessary that it would mean that she would HAVE to WIN or the situation would be worse, he father obviously was aware of this as well and supported her by standing over them in another Alpha roll with the broom. Considering the entire situation, Starfox and her father were right in what they did and now they can safely proceed with further demotion of Zebra. Dogs do this position naturally themselves when they pull each other down by the skin on their necks. I am not saying that this is not a dangerous roll, but if it has to be done then anyone assuming this position should be prepared for the worst and aware that they cannot [u]under any circumstances[/u] give in. :angel:

:D WoW! You should be able to finish him this week-end. [color=indigo]CONGRATULATIONS![/color] :angel:

:lol: lol: [quote]It obviously was a frog with "issues" and therefore commited suicide. [/quote] I guess so. :angel:

:o You did the right thing by pinning him down and letting him know you are still Alpha. I'm glad your father supported you and didn't make you let him up. I would take him to the vet and make sure nothing is physically wrong that could have caused this. Get him neutered if he's not already. Let us know what happens. :angel:

Nation's Dogs Dangerously Underpetted, Say Dogs This comes from [url]www.theonion.com[/url], a pretty good satire site. Enjoy! NEW YORK—At a press conference Monday, representatives of the Association of American Dogs announced that the nation's canines are dangerously underpetted. "Every night, thousands of U.S. dogs go to bed without so much as a scratch behind the ears," AAD president Banjo said. "If this sort of neglect from our masters continues, it could lead to widespread jumping on the furniture." Upon his owner's arrival in the press-conference room, Banjo abruptly ended his speech, frantically barking, leaping, and rolling over on his back in an effort to communicate his need for a vigorous belly rub. :angel:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Yea Shara I saw it happen it was one of those priceless moments where you wished you kept the camera on them 100% of the time. Then of course I freaked since frogs can be deadly poisonous and I don't know which ones are. Last year I had a problem with frogs on the back porch, Sally & Rocket would whine to go out and chase/eat them. :angel: