DogPaddle

Actually, cutting the "O" in half, is exactly what the vet suggested, that may work. However, my boys seem to get something out of the work it takes to get the marrow out of the "O" so I just check the size carefully. As for the beef intolerance, I would think that if there was meat or marrow attatched there would definately be a problem. If its just the bone you might be ok though. I would definately develop a relationship with a reputable butcher, you can have him/her save you the bits that most people don't want but that your dog will be able to make use of.

I know its unpopular but I do not oppose limited BSL. Things like regulating WHO can breed and own APBTs and ASTs, special regulations regarding containment of these dogs etc. Of course I also think that enforcing the existing leash laws would help. I DO NOT however support BSL that rips doggies out of their homes, euthanizes good dogs or other draconian measures. I have already emailed Mr. Bryant and advised him of the difficulties of a breed ban and encouraged him to do his research. I have also posed the question of what he will do when: Rotties, Cano Corsos, Fila Brasiliero, Dogo Argentinai etc become the next target for badboy rotten owners and if they ban these dogs what they weill do when it is Mastiffes, Bulldogs and Danes, and then what they will do when it is GSDs, Labs and Standerd Schnauzers, and then what they will do when it is Golden Retrievers and Standerd Poodles etc. etc. etc.

I think there is a very visable difference between EBT and a classicly bred SBT and the North American breeds - AST and the APBT, I do have great difficulty between the AST and APBT though. The look the same to me but the AST is registered with AKC and the APBT is not. Most sites I've been to indicate that the temperment of EBT and SBT differs from AST and APBT as well. In fact one site gave SBT a 3/5 for getting along with other dogs, it gave the AST a 1/5. If they do go through with bans I do hope they allow, grandfathering etc. and that they do their research.

I wonder how hard it would be to get the majority of folks onboard? Maybe some of Dogo's breeders would give an opinion on this. Would a 2 year break from breeding once every 10 years mess up your work with your breed? Do you think other breeders could be convinced to do this to help out?

Fence jumpers are challenging, glad you've found a solution.

Someone here once suggested a breeding break of sorts where no one breeds for like 2 years every now and then - maybe once every decade. I think that might be a good option and it wouldn't ruin anyones breeding program.

ESSLover The possibility of some dog spending most of its life on a worn patch of dirt, attatched to a chain heavier than it. (Tie outs are fine, and those overhead lines are even better, if the dog is spending only a portion of its day excercising and getting some air on it. If I didn't have a yard I would get the overhead line I think.)

:cry:

I believe that there is some benefit to nuturing a childs spirit and not repressing them BUT there is a huge difference between that and never disciplining. I'm glad the charges were dropped Court, sorry you had to go through that. Good for you for taking a stand against the little devil too, some kids need to be told that at least some people don't accept their behaviour.

- Where do you get your bones from? Grocery store - soup/shank bones with meat on them. - What size/proportions/cuts have you found to be best for your dogs? See above. - Do you sterilize them in any way before feeding? No feed them as is, meat attatched, they love the marrow in paticular. - If you feed raw bones and kibble, is there still the concern as with feeding a partial raw/partial kibble diet? I've never had this concern. I know there is the arguement that kibble is designed to digest slowly so might cause meat to sit in the stomache too long but beef takes 3 days to fully digest in the stomache, I don't think the kibble is slowing it down. - How often can you feed bones without worrying about upseting the balance of nutrients in the dog's current diet? I usually give them once a week. - Does anyone have a dog that tends to gulp food if they feel they might get it taken either by people or other dogs? And if so, how do you deal with it? Shankbones are two large to swallow. - What problems (even if they weren't really big problems) did/have you had in feeding raw bones? Shankbone is an "O" of bone after they eat the marrow out. I bought one too large once and Zaphod got the "O" stuck around his lower jaw, behind the canines. We couldn't get it off, the vet had to sedate him and grind some of the shankbone away to get it off. - I also remember reading of a few people who feed raw, but do not give bones, and I'd be interested in seeing why that is as well. I feed kibble and cooked, can't help.

I'm glad it all turned out ok. :lol:

Well at least those people were concerned about doggy welfare and were willing to do something about it. And as you have nothing to worry from AC, try not to fret over it. I've been waiting for someone to take issue with Kavik and Zaphod's outdoor game. Zaphod does not fetch outside and would really like to play with Zaphod, when Kavik goes outside he only wants to fetch and ignores Zaphod. So Kavik fetches and Zaphod barks, chases, checks and chews on Kavik's neck. They both have fun and get excercise but only if I allow Kavik a chance to get the kong before Zaphod starts after him sooo . . . I usually leash Zaphod and have him sitstay till Kavik has touched the tossed kong and then I tell him "ok, go get him" and release and Zaphod tears after him full speed (very shutzhundesqe APPEARING) then there is the event on the way back - it looks alot like doggy football. They have actual tactics and dodge etc its cool but may APPEAR like I'm training Zaphod to attack Kavik. What are you going to do though?

Thanks

Before I got Kavik I was considering a Standerd Poodle but as my brother was going to live with us I allowed him veto privlidge on breed. He claims the reason he vetoed Poodle was because he didn't like the coat but just this month he was looking at a brown Portugese Water Dog and decided that "that's not to bad, almost cute" :roll:

[quote]Back in the day (15+ years ago) we gave our dogs (german shepherds only) table food.[/quote] That's not so bad as people make it out to be. If you make sure they are not getting just fat and do a bit of research table/people/homemade food can be better for them. I bet your dogs were healthy enough, how long did they live?

JR is new and posted a health inquiry in the new members section, please refer to that section and see if you can help. [url]http://forum.dogomania.com/viewtopic.php?p=186746#186746[/url]

Welcome Sorry to hear about your dogs poor health, I don't know how to help but I'll put a post in the Health section telling folks to look here.

As for anything paticular about your mix of breeds: You already have experience with GSD so I'll just give you a couple links for Rotties: [url]http://www.amrottclub.org/rottweilers.htm[/url] [url]http://www.amrottclub.org/introduc.htm[/url] [url]http://www.amrottclub.org/ownershp.htm[/url] With mixes there is no hard rule for how they will behave. They could be alot like one or the other, they could be a bit of both, they could even be very little like either breed. I would suspect, an I am very much guessing, that your dog is likely a bit smarter than average but may be slightly independent. Probably a strong protective drive and some prey drive. Will almost certainly need a fair amount of excercise and mental stimulation or may become bored or destructive. For these reasons you may want to consider an obedience class maybe followed by activities like agility, tracking, canine good citizenship, flyball, weightpull, swimming, competative obedience etc. Probably will make a good couch warmer and snuggler as he gets older or when he is worn out a bit from playing or excercise. Probably a big dog that will eat a fair amount. Can we have pictures please, please, please?

As for not coming when called or not walking on leash: Does your dog like treats? If he does its easier. Coming When Called Get two people, give both a ton of very small treats - I used liver treats broken into 1/3 inch squares or smaller. (In the yard or on walks trailing a long line or in the house or all of them.) Call the dog and hold out the treat, when the dog comes give the treat and tons of praise, before the excitement of this event calms down have the other person call the dog and do the same. Make a silly game of it, laugh, play, treat. Repeat regularly. Never tell the dog "Come" to get a hold of it for punishment or things it doesn't like such as baths - go get him for this. Come will then become a great word for your boy. Walking On Lead First attatch a short lead to the dog and let him trail it around the house and yard all the time (at least while you can make sure he's not hanging himself up on something.) Then during walks keep those treats handy, again very small treats. Walk with a treat in your hand, right at your side, let the dog small, lick, nibble gentle at your hand for a bit as you walk. After a bit, give the treat and get another and repeat, do not break stride if possible. This helps for dogs that are skittish on lead or dig in their heals. If the problem is pulling there are several methods. You can refuse to move forward as long as the dog is pulling, as soon as he eases up move forward and praise, as soon as he pulls stop dead and possibly say no. Another method involves walking and making random turns, walk crazy so the dog has to watch you, you can combine this method with the treat method above for good results. If the above doesn't work join a dog obedience class. It's fun and they have many useful tips. It's even great if your doing ok with the dog. They'll also be able to teach you how to correctly use the right training tool for real tough pullers such as Martingales, Haltis, Gentle Leaders, Harnesses, Prong collars etc. Obedience classes help develop a bond and reassures your dog by clearly and humanely showing it its place in your "pack."

Stores that sell Canidae in Atlanta: Canine Showcase & Wild Bird 1544 PIEDMONT AVENUE NE 404 875-0611 Dog Days 3235 CAINS HILL PL NW 404 266-8668 Highland Pet Supply 1186 N HIGHLAND AVE NE 404 892-5900 The Pet Set 2480 BRIARCLIFF RD NE 404 636-4903 Peachtree Natural Foods, Inc. 152 PEACHTREE EAST 770 487-8288 You'll notice some stores are on multiple lists, they'll likely have most of the foods on the list. I would suggest trying [size=6][color=red]The Pet Set or Highland Pet Supply or Canine Showcase & Wild Bird[/size][/color]

Stores that sell Wellness in Atlanat Barking Hound Village 1918 Cheshire Bridge Road Atlanta, GA 30324 Phone: 404-897-3422 Canine Showcase & Wild Bird 2036 Manchester St. Atlanta, GA 30324 Phone: 404-875-0611 Highland Pet Supply 1186 N. Highland Avenue NE Atlanta, GA 30306 Phone: 404-892-5900 Kirkwood Feed & Seed 1998 Hosea Williams Boulevard Atlanta, GA 30317 Phone: 404-378-2829 Park Pet Supply, Inc. Atlanta, GA 30316 Phone: 404-588-0140 The Pet Gallery 857 Collier Rd. Atlanta, GA 30318 Phone: 404-351-7490 The Pet Set 2480 Briarcliff Road Atlanta, GA 30329 Phone: 404-633-8755 Barking Hound Village Lofts 568 Somerset Terrace Atlanta, GA 30306 Phone: 404-875-5408 Vinings Important Pets 4199 Paces Ferry Road Atlanta, GA 30339 Phone: 770-319-0100 more to come

Stores that cary Innova in Atlanta Animal Land (404) 815-1505 HOME DELIVERY Atlanta, GA 30324 Barking Hound Village (404) 897-3422 1918 Cheshire Bridge Rd Atlanta, GA 30324 Canine Showcase (404) 875-0611 1544 Piedmont Ave NE, Ans... Atlanta, GA 30324 Dog Days (404) 266-8668 3225 Cains Hill Place Atlanta, GA 30305 Highland Pet Supply (404) 892-5900 1186 N. Highland Ave Atlanta, GA 30306 Park Pet Supply (404) 588-0140 491 Flat Shoals Ave Atlanta, GA 30316 Pet Agree at Vinings (770) 436-0503 2997 Cumberland Blvd #210 Atlanta, GA 30339 Pet Gallery (404) 351-7490 857 Collier Road NWHowell... Atlanta, GA 30318 Pet Set (404) 633-8755 2480 Briarcliff Rd Atlanta, GA 30329 West Family Chiropractic (404) 255-6027 6100 Lake Forrest Dr., NW Atlanta, GA 30328 more to come

where?

For training start here: [url]http://forum.dogomania.com/viewtopic.php?t=10960[/url] For food - pick one without added salt or suger, no byproducts, no "meat" or "poultry" only identified proteins like "beef" or "chicken", an animal protien as the first ingredient, avoid foods high in corn. Some good foods: Wellness Canidae Solid Gold Innova Wysong Flint River? These foods are excellent but may APPEAR to cost more, however, they actually end up costing about the same as you often feed less of them and your dogs health is better. The above foods are also usually found only in specialty pet stores. If you absolutely must have a grocery store brand, which I don't advise, then look into President's Choice Lamb and Rice it is the least bad grocery store brand I've come across. You could if you felt up to it also research home prepared meals carefully and then try that but it is definately not for everyone. Any other specific questions?

Poodles are also very versatile dogs, they do well with children, other dogs, cats, agility, obedience, service dogs etc. The general public sees them as the uberdog, only problem for them is they are a little frufru. IMO this is why there are so many poomixes - people actually want a Standered Poodle but don't want to admit that they want a [i]poodle[/i] or they are so daft as to think that a straight poodle is to common or boring so they mix it with another dog like a lab or a gsd or whatever.