gooeydog

Watch the stitches for any signs of infection... redness, swelling, oozing or puss. If you notice any of that, she needs to go back to the vet. Keep her from chewing/pulling at the stitches, but licking is ok as long as she doesn't bother them too much. She'll probably just lay around for a day or two afterwards, then be back to her normal self after that, so you'll have to keep her calm.

[quote name='DogPaddle']Make sure you get infomation on all of these and their correct use and application as they are intended as correction tools not constant control/pressure tools eg with the choke its in part the noise of the chain that does it and the choke should drop to loose again right after the correction, same principle with the halti.[/quote] Actually the Halti type things aren't correction devices, but "guiding" devices. You should NEVER "snap" them in the same way you would with a prong or choke collar, but rather use steady pressure to guide the dogs head (and in theory, body follows head) where you want it to go. You don't need to have constant pressure on the Halti, but at the same time the dog shouldn't be allowed to surge forward and hit the end, as this can cause neck/back injuries.

Looks like he's having fun :lol: We have over 18" right now, and had to dig a path for the dogs to go pee :oops:

[quote name='Horsefeathers!'][quote name='laduenda']Also I never said I had "game dogs" I said I have gamebred dogs. There is a difference. [/quote] :question: :WTF:[/quote] "game dogs" = dogs that have been tested and proven game "gamebred dogs" = dogs that have parents/grandparents/ancestors (depending on who you ask) that have been tested and proven game

During the teething stages, dogs ears can go all over the place, and sometimes change daily. There's no telling what they'll eventually decide to do... until they've already done it :lol:

Something else I did find kinda amusing about this whole thing is that many of the stores in this area (and I'm guessing other areas too) are completely sold out of plastic sheeting and duct tape :lol: . My aunt had to go to the local Walmart earlier, and said that everyone was scurrying around looking for the sheeting and duct tape, but there were only a few items scattered around the store (guess those things aren't usually "high demand" items, so they don't have much in stock).

[quote]Perhaps they want people to stay inside and cover the windows in case of the release of a communicable disease to stop person to person spread. If sick people remain home the transmition rate of illness is greatly reduced.?[/quote] From what I've heard on the news (ick, news :roll: ), the plastic is supposed to help keep toxic chemicals and all those biological type things out. I'll see about getting some vitamin C, just in case (though I'm sure Goo would be humiliated if I made her do that :lol: ), better than having her whine and carry on because she has to go. Courtnek, by "lunch bucket" do you just mean something like a small cooler? We have a bunch of those little "igloo" things around here, and they're pretty well insulated.

I agree on the whole cover the windows thing, it doesn't seem like it'd be too effective against something that's going to kill a bunch of people. We're to the south of the city and north of DC though, so hopefully if they did dump somethng toxic on either of those places, it would be blown over pretty quickly (winds here are almost always heading at least somewhat to the east). My mom said that we probably wouldn't even bother with covering the windows, since if it would leak in through the windows, it would find other ways in. I still wouldn't want to be out wandering around with the dogs 3 times a day though :lol:

is getting more than a little annoying, but since we live only about 10-15 miles from a rather large US port (Baltimore City) and I'm guessing maybe 100-150 miles from Washington DC, I am getting a little concerned about what we're going to do if something happens. I have family that works in DC, as a police officer around the FBI field office, and they told me that after the stuff they've been hearing at work, even they're getting worried. They've already talked to me about the things we need to do if something does happen, but it's not going to be fun at all staying in the basement apartment (2 bedrooms, a combo livingroom/dining room/kitchen, and a bathroom) with 5 dogs and a cat. I know we're lucky we have that though, and it would be even worse if we only had one room to stay in. We already have most of the stuff us people need (my parents stay in the basement, so it's got just about everything we need), so we just need to get the dogs' stuff. I'm going to fill up some 5 gallon buckets with water for them, and take enough food down there for them. What are we going to do about them having to "potty" though? We have some of those pee-pee pad things already, but only Joey will use them (Annie prefers the floor, and Casey usually goes outside, but will go on the floor if we don't make it in time). Goo only goes in the house when she's sick, and even then she only goes a little, like she's trying not to. I was thinking about maybe "planting" some grass in a tray or something, and hoping that she thinks it's ok because it's grass? I just don't want her to get sick from trying not to go on the floor. And the other thing is that we still have Haley here, and she needs her insulin twice a day or she'll get sick and if she doesn't have it for a couple days die. The insulin has to be kept cold (but not freezing) or it will go bad. So if the electricity goes out, how are we going to keep the insulin cold enough (normally we keep it refrigerated) since we can't stick it outside in the snow and ice would melt after a few hours/days. Any ideas?

[quote name='Horsefeathers!']Are you kidding?! I have NEVER met a Lab that didn't virtually throw its hair at me. [/quote] :lol: Me either HF. I keep thinking back to when I walked a huge lab x for some people down the street who couldn't handle her , and I would bathe and brush her when she needed it too. I got enough hair out of that dog in one grooming (which I did about every week) for every bird in the neighborhood to build three nests out of dog fur alone :lol:

I'm with koolie, there's no need to make a "golden lab" when either the golden or lab can do anything a "golden lab" would be able to. There's no guarantees that the dogs would be non-shed, or even low-shed... I've met a lot of labs [i]and[/i] a lot of goldens that shed, at least moderately, which is still too much for a lot of people. It takes decades, sometimes more to get a cross to breed true (meaning that all the dogs have similar structure/temperments), and until you do that, it really can't be called a "breed". And all it takes is one bad choice of breeding stock, and you have to start all over. In addition, there are thousands of "golden labs" in the shelters already, which indicates that others don't feel they're as "perfect" as you do. You may not even get the best traits of both, and are you able to handle the culling ("weeding out" of the dogs that don't fit your needs, in a case like this, usually euthanization is used) that you will need to do in order to keep only the best dogs for breeding. One other thing... I've met a lot (at least 30) of lab x goldens, and though the majority were nice dogs, there were also a few with very freakish temperments, not like that of either the lab OR the golden.

Our dogs get small portions of a lot of the things we eat... a piece of chicken after dinner, or a spoonful of macaroni, and if I make a salad, they all clamber around for the cucumber skins. Goo even gets tiny amounts of chocolate sometimes, like if I give her a bite of chocolate chip cookie... she's a fairly large dog though, so one chocolate chip isn't going to hurt her. I use dried out (in the oven) hotdog pieces as training treats, and give them frozen carrots to chew on sometimes. Most people food won't hurt a dog, as long as it's given in moderation.

Here's a sitte that explains how dapples and double dapples get their patterns... it also tells how they end up with the large white pathces and/or entirely white. [url]http://www.dachshund.org/article_double_dapple.html[/url]

[quote name='Poofy']The "smooth" verses "rough" on the paw pads...those little bristle things are a type of skin/calous that grows very fast and on a constant basis. If the dog does not wear them smooth, they of course will become bristly over a few days. Kinda like your finger nails. If you filed them all the time they would be smooth and short...you let them grow for a while and they get longer. On some dogs, especially on the extra toes, the "pad skin" can get very hard and very long...almost like an extra toe nail...I have actually seen toenail like growths come out of dew claw pads.[/quote] Goo rarely walks on pavement/concrete or any kind of "gritty" surface since we mostly stay in the yard, and a couple years ago she had one of those "extra nails" growing on out one of her pads... it didn't seem to bother her (it was like 1/8" long, flat and just layed flat against the rest of the pad), but it was kinda disturbing to me, so I clipped it off :oops: . She has really rough pads still though, is there anything I can do to wear that down, other than walking her on the street/sidewalk?

I've read online about some people having success at slowing cancer by giving the dogs certain diets and supplements (don't know much about it though, or if it would work in this case)... if they're interested in having her around a little longer maybe they could check into that?? Of course, 13 yrs is a good long life, and maybe they just want to let her go as easily as possible for everyone involved... :(

[quote name='bk_blue']So I am wondering- all you Pit owners, what is it that attracts you to the breed? Do you think the dog aggression still has a purpose today? I am keen to hear your thoughts. :D[/quote] The dog aggression serves no purpose at all, but like Sasha said, it's hard to breed away from one "undesireable" trait, while keeping all the others as they are. There's also the issue that culling dog aggressive dogs from the breeding program would lessen the number of quality breeding dogs out there... not something any breeder/breed fancier particularly likes. Also, where do you draw the limit? What exactly qualifies as dog aggression? Is it a dog who simply won't back from any dog down if challenged and won't stop once "turned on"? A dog that screams everytime it sees another dog because it wants to fight so bad, but gets along with it's housemates? One that waits patiently and quietly for any dog to get close enough so it can grab it? How about one who ignores small dogs (maybe even plays with them) but doesn't tolerate dogs of their size or larger? There are so many different levels of dog aggression, to what limit should it be tolerated? And what if you have a dog that's a national/international champion in conformation, has multiple obedience and weight pull titles, has passed all temperment tests, health certs, etc; but is dog aggressive? Do you pull it out of the breeding program because it's dog aggressive, or do you breed it because it's such a great physical/mental representative of the breed? At what point is dog aggression outweighed by a dog's accomplishments (or do the accomplishments matter at all if the dog is dog aggressive?)? There are so many questions that can have so many answers, depending on who you ask, it's hard to determine how to go about breeding away from dog aggression, or even if it should be done. I'm on the fence on this issue, as I can't even give a definite answer to some of those questions :roll: :oops:

Like any collar/control device (from GL types to no pull harnesses, to even electric collars), dogs can become desensitized to prong collar corrections. It would be a good idea to use the prong collar to control her while you work with her on keeping her attention focused on you. Why will that keep her from pulling? She'll be focusing on you (most likely your face, but some people use their hands) waiting for you to tell/show her what to do next. You can easily teach a dog to focus using clicker/marker training... simply stand/sit with the on front of you, on a flat collar and leash. This may take a while, so find someplace comfortable, as you don't want to be constantly fidgeting or trying to get situated. Tell her to "look" (or whatever word you want to use as the command for her to focus on you), then you just wait. The instant the dog makes eye contact with you, either "click", or say "good" (or whatever word you want to use to mark the good behavior), and reward (treat, toy, praise, whatever you use, though I've found that it's harder to reward with praise than it is with a "material" item). Then say "look" (again), and wait until she does it again, and repeat the "mark & reward" thing. Only do this for short sessions, like five minutes at a time, several times a day. Eventually you should be able to have her maintain eye contact for longer periods of time before rewarding. Also important, when you first start, go someplace where there are very few distractions, because distractions will make it harder for her to focus on you. Once you have her making steady eye contact for over 30 seconds in the "low distraction area", you can move to one with a few small distractions. Bagin the entire process again, starting with rewarding for just short "looks", and working your way up to longer ones. kepp adding distractions as she becomes comfortable with it, but don't move too fast, and if she can't focus with a higher amount of distraction, move back down to the previous level. I'm not sure if this was all that good of an explanation, but I'm sure there is more somewhere online about the same thing, all you have to do is look around a little :lol: . If you're going to be going to any training classes, they usually help you teach the dog to focus, as well. I've never used a prong collar on a dog before, so I don't know much about how they're used, or the best way to correct with them :lol:

You can use gauze to cover it, but like Luka-pop said, it's important to let it "breathe" so doesn't get mushy. Did you wash it out with disinfectant before letting it scab over? If not, soak it until the scab softens and can be pulled off, then use the disinfectant (salt water, listerine, betadine, watever you're using) before it develops another scab. Since you don't know what caused the cut, you need to make sure no germs are getting sealed in by the scab, because if they are, there's a greater risk for infection and/or abcess. It also won't hurt for her to lick it, if it's someplace where she can reach.

Forgot to mention that Haley is the [b]messiest[/b] (sp??) pit bull I have ever met... she has think "floopy" lips, and they just trap food inside, so anytime she tries to get a drink or lick you, the food ends up in the water or on you :roll: :lol: . Here's a pic of her from a couple weeks ago... look at how her lips stick out :lol: [img]http://seemesmile.com/photos4/2637189a.jpg[/img]

I doubt she can stay here long... she's a little dog aggressive (which given time, we might be able to work it out so she could co-exist with at least some of our dogs), and my dad would have a fit. I honestly don't think my mom wants another dog either, but she might make an exception in Haley's case :lol: since Haley practically worships her. Goo is already pouting, and seems to be boycotting me because I let Haley up in the chair with me earlier when she was out :roll: (Goo was in the room at the time, but the look on her face when she smelled the chair after we let her back out :o ). Her owner has come to visit for a few minutes for the past 2 nights, and my mom still isn't sure what's going to happen with Haley... at least as to whether she goes back or not. Last night when her owner was here, she said she hoped my mom would let Haley come home soon (we already told her it would be at least a few weeks), so I don't think she's going to make it easy if my mom decides not to give her back. Of course the fact that she wanted to take her while she's still so unhealthy made me wonder if she's just "brushing things off" again, and denying that the dog still has a real problem now that she's not almost dead. I really don't think she deserves her back, she was warned several times that she had to stay on the schedule (and told what would happen if she didn't), yet still went off it... the decision is ultimately my mom's though, and all I can do is tell her what I think and hope she doesn't put the dog back in a bad situation :-? . Haley likes it here... she's not left alone for long at all, and has barely been crated at all (actually we just put the crate up last night, because she's still not housbroken, and eats things, but she was only in there for an hour while we went to the store), and since she's in the office room, my mom is back there with her most of the day. Then every couple hours, we put the other dogs in and let her roam the house. She goes outside happily for us, but when her owner tried to take her out last night, she balked at the door and didn't want to go with her :-? (maybe she's telling her something :lol: ). Her BG (blood glucose) levels have been high the past two days, and the vets actually gave her an extra insulin shot both times, plus she's up 5 units from where she was. We think it's because of all the food she's been eating, but the vet is more worried about how thin she is, so we're going to get her fattened up a little, then worry about adjusting the insulin to where it needs to be.

[quote name='hollywood_hulkhogan']Thanks to those with the positive responses. I find it uncalled for to make any negative statements about my Pits, who totally responded well to a potential problem in a socializing evironment. But then again this breed of dog will unfortunately always be labelled killer dogs. Sad, so very sad. [/quote] I made no "negative statements" towards your dogs, but rather stated [b]proven facts[/b] about the "pit bull" breed (and unaltered dogs, if that's what you're referring to) in general. Your dogs may come running to you for help now, but as they grow older and gain more confidence, they'll likely decide that they can handle things on their own. Socialization can only "work with" what is already in place from genetics... dog aggression is one of those things that is either "fixed", or not "fixed" into the dogs' genetic make-up. In the case of most pit bulls, it is there. There is nothing you can do about it but accept it and work to control it by training/socialization. As Rott 'N' Pit said, dog aggression usually doesn't start to show until 1-3 yrs, though some "turn on" later, some earlier. Your dogs are just babies, nowhere near mature, and they're still testing things out, trying to figure out how the world works. It [b]is[/b] naive to believe that they will act the same way as adults as they do now, as adolescents. They're your dogs though, so what you like with them... maybe the odds were in your favor and you did get two completely cold dogs, better hope, anyway. And there is a reason this breed is/always will be labeled a killer... because many pit bull owners are, and will remain ignorant (not an insult, and also not directed at anyone in particular) or continue to deny the inherent traits of the breed, and place them in situations that allow them to act upon those instincts.

I do agree with the others though... beautiful dogs :lol:

[quote name='hollywood_hulkhogan'] My two Pits are never aggressive and they are still intact with their testes.[/quote] Your two pits are not aggressive [b]yet[/b]... it's naive to think that they will [b]never be[/b] aggressive, especially if you're still planning on leaving them intact. Pit bulls, as a breed, are generally at least somewhat dog aggressive, and male dogs with their hormones still running amuck ( :lol: ) are often aggressive towards other dogs at times. That combination alone is asking for trouble, and taking the pair to a dog park full of other off leash, potentially aggressive, or dominant dogs is tempting fate. Sure, there's a tiny chance that they'll play happily all their lives, but there's a much better chance that they'll eventually get into a squabble, and true to their breed, will finish the fight. Then the media will have another sensational story; you'll have a large fine, two dead dogs, or both; and responsible pit bull owners will once again be struggling to keep BSL from being placed in their areas because of [b]one[/b] person's irresponsible actions.

[quote=ROTT'N'PIT] The dog of design was fast agile and easy to handle in the pit, do you really think they wanted to wrestle with these hundred pound beasts?[/quote] Not to mention that with larger dogs, you almost always lose wind/stamina, which is one of the most important things in a working dog. Most of the huge pit bulls you see today can barely walk a block in 80 degree weather without their tongues hanging out as they struggle to breathe, let alone work all day long as the breed is supposed to be able to.

Pit bulls are usually close to their full height by the time they are 8-10 moths old, and continue to fill out until they're 18 months old, some a little longer, some less. Contrary to popular belief, pit bulls are not supposed to be "wide", or have huge heads. They are supposed to be quick, strong, and agile... none of which are helped by having a large head or excessive bulk/mass.