gooeydog

What registry are the papers from? And why don't you ask the breeder? If they're even half decent, they should know the lineage of their dogs and be able to give you some history.

[quote=Mary's Mama] This way at the first sign of any aggression you are directly there to correct and she will learn that you are in charge.[/quote] You're not really supposed to use head collars to correct dogs, they work by "leading" the dog smoothly into what you want them to do, not pulling like you would for a correction. You also have to be careful with a dog that lunges at people/other dogs, because 1) the GL/Halti can slip off (even if properly fitted) if the dog turns the right way, and 2) the dog can injure it's neck/back if it hits the end of the leash with a GL on.

I posted, but I don't know if they'll let it up :lol: .

I can't get into my email to send any messages, but here's another rescue site that might be able to help [url]http://www.badrap.org/rescue/[/url] and there are more on this page [url]http://www.pbrc.net/organizations.html[/url]. Someone on another board was willing to foster the mom and pups if they could get them pulled from the shelter, but I'm not sure if they found someone or not. Deep, you shouldn't make fun of the weener dog, she's much more dangerous (and sneakier) than any pit bull, and is probably plotting her revenge right now :lol:

I'll post there in a while, but I think it's kinda funny that she's talking about the "attack pit bull" on fear factor that consistently "brought down" people, when it actually was actually an American Bulldog (I thought the dog was a great worker, and I remember someone saying that he's about 9 yrs old), and that the dogs were under complete control of their handlers.

[quote name='deepseasnake']jelly fish Im much more scared of those than sharks[/quote] We get jellyfish around here in summer if we haven't had enough rain and the water's getting too salty, the water is almost packed with them. The ones that come around here are just sea nettles, but they're still enough to keep us from swimming as much after they start coming in. And there are sand sharks (not sure if that's their real name, but they swim in with the jellyfish) about 5 miles from here, but to my knowledge, no one's ever had a problem with them.

Goo (dark brindle) doesn't have one... Annie (red) and Joey (fawn) do. I think maybe it has to do with the length of their fur, Goo's fur is really short and thin around her neck, and kind of stiff; Annie's fur is a little longer and thicker than Goo's; and Joey's fur is longer, softer, and thicker than either of theirs.

Poor dogs... [url]http://www.generaltopics.com/amrt/photo.php/1208/[/url] Or how about this little girl... [url]http://www.generaltopics.com/amrt/photo.php/1224/[/url] Or this cute Bulldog(/pit?) mix... [url]http://www.generaltopics.com/amrt/photo.php/1206/[/url]

[quote name='deepseasnake']interesting little fact, you are around 130% less likely to be attacked by a bear or cougar if you have a dog with you. in fact dogs are the number 1 suggested defense against bears and big cats. I've heard the barking and ferocity scares the animals off.[/quote] If the bear/cougar "pushed the issue" with a meduim/large dog and was injured, they wouldn't be able to hunt properly, and might starve. They have the "survival instinct", and would rather avoid conflict and live to hunt another day than get into a fight and lose their advantage as predators. About the shark/fish thing, they [i]can[/i] breathe with only the gills of one side useable... look at how fishermen put fish on "stringers" (where the clip is passed through the mouth and out the gills on one side, and the fish are kept alive by letting them in the water on the stringer). The fish(es?) can still breathe, because the other gills can draw in enough oxygen. :lol:

Not a dog, but the cat (the "alpha" of the house) knows when my dad gets up in the morning, and when my parents had a "touch light" in their room, the cat used to go in and bump the light with his nose, bumping it again if my dad ignored him, until eventually it was on its brightest setting and couldn't exactly be ignored. My dad didn't mind much on work days, but the cat still doesn't seem to understand the concept of weekends :lol: .

That kind of thing I think they [i]can[/i] do. We may not be dogs, but they do seem to be able to learn from watching and "imitate" us (at least in a way). Goo used to watch me opening the "toy box" (a rubbermaid tub that I keep all the extra toys in) with great interest. One day I came home late from school and she had managed to open the box, knock it over, and was laying on the floor, playing with one of her toys. I figured maybe the lid just popped off when she knocked it over, so I put everything back in and put the lid on again. As soon as I walked out of my room, I heard her banging her paws up against the box, and I peeked in at her as she grabbed a handle on one side of the box in her mouth, bit down (releasing the lid), lifted, and pulled it off. She then knocked the box over and got the same toy out again. Needless to say, the toy stayed out of the box after that :lol: . Of course, she may have been just chewing on the box trying to get it open and accidentally opened it, then realized how she had done it, but the time I watched, she seemed to know exactly what she was doing :wink: . Also, (this is likely just a coincidence) when we're getting ready to go out on the boat, and I let her loose on the pier to run out and get on it, if the boat's not close enough to the pier for her to jump on, she'll sometimes grab the rope and pull it closer (of course, other times she just stands there looking at me like, "Hello!?... I need some help here..."), then jump on. Like I said though, this may just be her releasing her frustrations since she can't get on the boat, and the rope just happens to be in easy reach. :lol:

Goo was fine, but she's used to power tools sounds since she's always following me down into my dad's workshop when he's working. She actually fell alseep the last time I was doing them :lol: . The others were afraid of the dremel (only when it was on, they were fine when it was off), so I turned it on, got out the peanut butter and a plate, and started luring them in close to the dremel. When they didn't seem worried about it anymore, I had my friend hold them and the plate while I took a little off of each nail. They were so busy eating that they didn't even care about the dremel. So far I've done Annie's and Goo's by myself, but haven't tried Casey's and Joey's without help yet. I've just done a little at a time, so they don't get tired of sitting there. When you get to the quick, you can see it before you hit it. Start off on the lowest power (I know, common sense :wink: ), and increase when they're comfortable. I also put a wad of cotton in each ear before starting, so maybe it quiets the noise a little.

Does anyone else here dremel (grind) their dogs' nails? I started using it for our dogs' nails about a month ago, and I like it better than the clippers. I think they do too.

I don't think they can necessarily do things like that, their intelligence seems more "natural" than humans... what I mean by that is that they're good at solving things that have to do with survival and meeting their needs/wants, but when it comes to things that would be trivial if they were living in the wild, they seem to have a hard time "getting" the concept, if they can at all. I don't know if that makes any sense at all though :lol:

Whate state do you live in? Would you be willing to take in a rescue dog, or will you only accept a dog from a breeder? A rescue dog (from a reputable rescue) will be temperment tested, altered, UTD on its vaccs, should be heatrworm negative (or undergoing treatment), and may already be started on housebreaking. In addition, you can adopt either a pup, young adult (no guessing on size, and you'll have an idea about its temperment), or an adult dog (fully grown, should be out of the chewing stage, etc, and you'll be pretty sure of its temperment). In addition, there are a variety of wonderful dogs in rescues that need homes. You should be able to find the one that fits your needs and lifestyle. If you decide to get a dog from a breeder, make sure they are a reputable breeder and that their dogs are health tested and of sound temper. How "large" of a dog do you want (as in approximate weight ranges)? And what is your climate like? Is part of your property fenced? How much time to do want to spend training/exercising the dog? Can you take the dog to be groomed? Sorry for all the questions, but these are all things that will weigh in on you picking a breed :wink:

911 is for [i]emergencies[/i], and this situation, while extremely annoying for Corgilady, is definitely [i]not[/i] an emergency.

:( :x I wonder if my aunt's BF has heard anything about this, since he lives in Newark, maybe he knows more than what's in the article. I have to go to their house later, so if I find out anything, I'll post it :-?

At what age did you get her? A common problem with pups that were taken from their littermates/mother before 8 weeks is that they don't have enough time to learn the bite inhibition (when and how hard is ok to bite), and so they have to be taught. For biting on humans, you can either "yelp" when she nips too hard; give her "time outs" (either in crate, another room, or on a tiedown) for it; or just stop playing when she does it. As for other dogs, it's a good idea to find other pups for her to play with, and if you know of an older dog that will "correct" her nipping, but won't hurt her, then let her play with that dog as well. Just make sure you're always there in case things get out of hand. Also keep in mind that she shouldn't be in contact with strange dogs/animals until she's done with all her puppy series of vaccinations (I think it's 2 or 3 sets), so be careful where you take her. It would also be a good idea to get her into a "puppy kindergarten" class for some training and socialization once she's had all her shots.

[quote name='HazelNutMeg']Well, the Act Like a Log thing was what we were taught in school... perhaps they need to be teaching children a different way? We were taught this in about grade... 4 or 5, then last year in CAPP we were going over it, they asked what to do, we came up with that (between everyone in the class) and he said that was correct.[/quote] It might be that they want to show children the simplest technique possible, since in the event of an attack, a child isn't likely to remember all the things they can do to "fight" the dog, and even if they did, they're likely not strong enough to really have any effect on a bear. [quote]If the dog has got it's mouth clamped down on you, and it is a medium breed, if you feel on a dogs mouth, their is a hing on their jaw. Pressing this should open their jaw. If this doesn't work, you can always curl the dogs lips under his teeth, this will cause the dog to bite himself, and unless he LIKES the pain (which I highly doubt) he will let go.[/quote] Both these will work on some dogs, but Annie (11 lb "hot dog") couldn't care less if I press on her jaw once she's got ahold of one of her toys. If anything, it makes her clench her jaw even harder. :lol:

[quote name='bullygirl29532']Being i watch alot of animal shows and those ones about if animals attack I'll tell you what i've learned.[/quote] Remember to not believe everything you hear/see on tv :wink: . If the dog has you on the ground, you're not going to be able to punch it very hard, not to mention that there are dogs that would feed off of the pain you caused (hence the adrenalin rush they got) and fight back even harder. Also, a person would have a hard time grabbing both sets of gills on a shark, while suffocating themselves since they're under the water. I'm not saying it's impossible, but not really likely. I don't know much about bears, so can't really say anything about that :wink: .

There's so much contradictory information out there though that it's hard to know what's best. I mean, one source tells you to play dead, another tells you to "be a tree", another tells you to fight back. One tells you to lay flat on your stomach if you're knocked to the ground, another tells you to curl in a ball with your hands clasped behind your neck. Some advise to not look at the dog, some advise that you stare the dog down. That's why it's good to see what other people think :lol: . Also, since there are so many different "styles" of dogs out there, one method won't necessarily work to stop all dog attacks. For instance, if you kicked a Sheltie (no offense to shelties, they were just the first thing that popped into mind) that was attacking you, it would likely make the dog stop and think, whereas if you kicked a Rottie (again, the first breed that came to mind) that was attacking you, it wouldn't faze the dog as much. Of course, the dog's commitment to hurting you would also come into play... most dogs that attack are defending something (themselves, their property, their pups, whatever they perceive as "theirs"), and if they begin to feel their life is in danger, they'll back down (self preservation). Some really prey driven dogs will actually fight back harder if the "prey" tries to escape. These dogs will also abandon the "fight" (in this case, the attack) if things start to get too bad, but usually take longer to give up. Then there are also dogs who have "less" of the self preservation instinct (either because of breeding or training/conditioning) than most dogs, and they'll take more punishment than most other dogs before trying to get out of the situation. If you are trying to fight off a dog that's attacking you, remember that just as humans, dogs have areas that are more receptive to pain. Noses, ears, eyes, "bits" (as per K :lol: ) are all more sensitive than say, the back of the neck. If the dog has on a collar and you can grab it (if it's a flat collar, you'll have to twist it also to tighten it so they can't pull out) and try to choke the dog (granted, this probably isn't the best method, but if there's no other way and you're being bitten anyway...). I really don't know what I'd do if a dog was attacking me, but I'd probably try anything that might get them off me (I'm not much for laying down (or standing) and hoping they get bored and go away).

I know it's one of those things where you really don't [i]know[/i] how you'd react until it's happened, but how do you [i]think[/i] you'd react if you were attacked by a dog? Would you react differently for different "degrees of intensity" (ie: dog just trying to get rid of you, vs dog trying to kill you)? And what do you consider to be the best way to lessen the damage or stop the attack?

This behavior doesn't necessarily mean he was beaten (although it definitely doesn't mean that he wasn't, either). Many dogs are submissive/shy by nature, and even though they've been loved all their lives, they still are handshy or fearful of people. My mom's Chi also used to do this, and what I did was get down on the floor with him, a paper plate with a glob of peanut butter on it, and his leash. I held out the plate, and as he licked off the peanut butter, I snapped on the leash and praised. Then I sat the plate up, walked him up our hallway and back, and held the plate in front of him again as I unsnapped the leash. After that, the plate went back up, and we both went our ways. I did this several times a day for a few days, then just put the peanut butter on my hand and did the same as I would with the plate. I stayed sitting the first day of that, then the next day I kneeled, the next I stood, and bent down to hook on the leash with one hand as I held out the other at a comfortable level (with the food on it). By doing each "phase" several times a day, he caught on fairly quickly, and now comes running out and crams his nose into my hand when he sees the leash (which puts him standing on his hind legs, so it's easy to get the leash on). Hope this helps a little :lol:

I'm with Hobbit. The dog doesn't need to be spoiled, it needs to be worked. Hard. It needs a job of some sort, even if it's something as simple as agility or playing catch (although in this case, that may not be enough). She's sitting around with all that energy, but nothing to do, so she's finding her own outlets for her energy. She needs some sort of "mental stimulation" so that she won't be so bored. In addition to teaching the dog "off", she can start redirecting it to other more suitable outlets for it's energy release, like a tug or other toy. The easiest way to do this is to "off" her from whatever she's nipping/chasing, and immediately get her engaged with the suitable toy, then praise immensly. Eventually the dog will begin to automatically go to the toy to "unload" when it sees something it's not supposed to be chasing/nipping (ie: if the dog is loose in the yard and a child runs across, rather than chasing the child, the dog will go find the toy and either play or bring it to someone). There are plenty of books and articles about redirection (and other types of) training, so if she can't/won't take the dog to training, it would be a good idea for her to invest in some literature :lol:

[quote name='Rowie-the-Pooh'] Gooey: AC officers...gotta love'm! :roll: (How did Goo get hacked off ears?)[/quote] They were cropped before we got her, but whoever did them didn't do a very good job. They're crooked, and the edges are ragged. It's not usually very noticable, but even so, they don't look at all like a lab's ears.