courtnek

GOOD JOB!! if hes not nipping, you're winning!! keep it up, dont take initial compliance as a win...make him obey. its better for both of you!!! 8) 8)

made me cry..Free doesnt bring "things", she brings herself.she lays ont he floor at your feet and wont move unless dragged when you're sick or injured. Laurel would have been the problem. she will jump up and sleep ON YOU until you're better... LOL - thanks 8) 8)

Seij, I'm thinking find a way to affix the kennel to the ground permanently. that takes away her ability to knock it over. you could try metal fence posts attached to the kennel and drive them at least 6 inches into the ground, 8 to 10 is even better. also, if she is running past you out the door you can put her leash on inside, and attach it to a runner outside between the house and the kennel/doghouse. make her sit and hold her there until after you have the door open. it will take some work, but I believe it can be done. 8)

[quote name='abker17'][quote]this cracks me up. I dont know how old all of you are, but its a takeoff on "Woodstock"....during the Vietnam war and all the people who were against it gathered at a farm in NY and basically protested the war, thru songs, and petitions, and "sit-ins" at DC...its a major pinpoint in history.[/quote] I would hope we all know about Woodstock![/quote] the point was how old I am, not that no one knew about it. I was almost a teenager when it happened, too young to go or I would have, just to check it out. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

well, I both agree and disagree with some of his statements. I can see how an artic breed dog would have a heightened sense of smell due to the environment, but disagree that hounds sense of smell is "too keen" hounds have one of the best olfactory systems of any dog, possibly excepting huskies. but they can be trained to detect a certain smell and ignore all others. My foxhound was trained to the scent of fox. that is what her pack would look for, although there were tons of other animals and smells around. when I take her to the river she knows there is fox there, although doesnt chase them, just bays. also, bloodhounds need to be able to follow a scent that is a few days old. they are directed to a certain scent, and like foxhounds, thats all they look for. they are capable of completing ignoring every other scent once trained. also, hounds do not fall into the category of "gundogs"....gundogs are actually sporting dogs by AKC classification, and include setters, retrievers, pointers, etc...hounds are simply hounds. they are a different classification because of their intended usage. I also dont see the point of crossbreeding with a jackal. it would take many generations to stabilize that animal. better usage of the money would be to train exisitng sniffers (and hounds would be good for this, they already use beagles) to pinpoint a certain scent. they use labs and shepherds now as well, who get the job done. I think a hound trained from a young age would be very good at it.

I am sorry Nay, but I will stand by you no matter what. your decision is hard, but if its the best for you than do it. I have been through this, feel free to PM me if you want. lots of love Katy

I must have missed it too..whats happening DAL? if its too painful I will understand... :cry:

this cracks me up. I dont know how old all of you are, but its a takeoff on "Woodstock"....during the Vietnam war and all the people who were against it gathered at a farm in NY and basically protested the war, thru songs, and petitions, and "sit-ins" at DC...its a major pinpoint in history. My son was taught about it in school...God, I'm old... :roll: :roll: :roll:

I'm sorry Seij....if getting her into her kennel is that much of an issue, then maybe try this.... hot dogs, raw meat, bones from the butcher..something unresistable.... then train using those treats. milk bones isnt gonna do it in this case.. 8)

ok, flame away if necessary. if you own ONE dog, its less likely to attack anyone because its "pack space" is limited. you own MULTIPLE dogs and pack rules come into play. and they WILL divert to pack rules if the owners are not careful...the more dogs you have, the more pack rules come into play, and the stricter you have to be. ask K, ask HF...their dogs are well behaved because the RULES HAVE BEEN LAID DOWN. from the beginning...

sorry Seij but I have to disagree. your dog, IMO, is knocking over the house because she knows you will fix it, then treat her. she has learned to expect a treat on recall to the house. not a bad thing, but I wouldnt tolerate the house wrecking. if she screams, yells and panics, a new command is needed. CHILL!! when chilled, she gets treated. otherwise, put her on a leash and make her come in, no treat. they are like children, and very manipulative. they learn what works for them, very quickly. CHILL works very well on my dogs. it basically means SHUT UP AND DO WHAT I TOLD YOU... sounds harsh, but it works. mine have "bitch wars"..they go into snapfests over stupid things (bones, etc. stupid in my opinion, since they both get one equally) but the one tries to Lord it over the other by stealing. when a snapfest starts, I stomp, yell, and smack them both upside the muzzle. they CHILL..in no time at all....

[quote name='Seijun']I knew a guy who was convinced that c@ts should not be kept around babies because the c@t would smelll milk on the baby's breath and "suck the life" out of the baby in an attempt to get the milk. No, I'm not joking. This dude was serious. ~Seij[/quote] there are people who believe that cats should never get near babies because they will sleep on their faces and suffocate them. the milk story has been going around for decades...cats were originally (by Christianity) determined to be agents of the devil :roll: :roll: :roll: especailly black ones. yet the egyptians worshipped them. one mans milk is another mans poison... as far as "blood lust", thats not entirely untrue. some free roaming dogs that have killed sheep and cattle have developed it, thats probably where it got started. but its not blood lust, its the thrill of the chase and so rarely has anything to do with humans. dogs with a high prey drive will chase and kill whatever runs. people dont usually run fast enough for it to be caused by thrill of the chase. these dogs should be hauled off the street, and the owners should be put in jail. these arent normal house dogs, they are street dogs, which are actually more dangerous then wild dogs. wild dogs leave people alone. street dogs have no fear of people, and that where the problem evolves...

for people who understand the workings of a pack, yes it is. I dont think the poster does. many of the problems I see with dogs both surrendered to shelters, and put to sleep, is because of "aggression" they didnt expect. People think in people terms. dogs think in pack rules. if we are going to train and own them, we need to think in "pack rules" as well. those are the only rules they "know", they are instinctive. we can use that to make our cohabitation peaceful and friendly. 8)

this dog also sounds like he has "possesion" issues...once his, he thinks its HIS and no one can take it. NILIF will help with the pack structure, but YOU need to enforce the policy that EVERYTHING IS YOURS, and you can take whatever you want from him. you need to make sure he gets NOTHING (not food, not walks, not even petting) until he has done something to earn it. even a simple sit. as time goes on, make the work harder. sit/stay. sit/lay down. sit-dont-move-til-I say-you-can...... dogs need to know their place in the pack, and that place should always be beneath you, and every other human in the house. even a baby. for safety, if nothing else.

arriving as called....LOL....this is a "whos on first" dominance issue. dog doesnt want to do what you want, dog lets you know with a "hand squeeze"..not hard enough to bite, just to show displeasure. this is the beginning stages of an alpha wannabe. this is how they start. hand squeezes, you buy off on it, not knowing any better, they start making more moves to usurp your place on the pack ladder. Most people dont even realize this is happening. "oh, he only did it once, then twice next week, now he wont get off the bed and my husband has to sleep on the couch"...sounds far fetched? nada. its very common with an alpha wannabe. they break little rules first, if the people dont respond they start breaking bigger rules until they have basically taken over the alpha position, and they run you. then they're dangerous, they will actually attack and bite if they dont get their way. thats not to frighten you, its just to show how these things happen over time. first step. NILIF...Nothing In Life Is Free...this is pack rules, from a human point of view. we cant snarl, snap and grab neck fur to discipline, but we CAN make them work for EVERYTHING they get from us. A pack alpha would do the same. want to eat? sit. want to go out? lay down. want to play? sit and stay. NOTHING is given without them doing something for it first. NOTHING. and that where you have to be firm, because alpha wannabe's can suddenly become big lovies when they think they're losing their bid for the alpha slot. you cant stop because now he's behaving. they will do that. I dont think we need demotion yet (going through doorways first, eat before they do, no couches, no beds) because this is the beginning phase. you caught it and reported it. most people dont. I think your pup can be turned around right now with just NILIF. NILIF is a fair, non-hurting (dont even have to yell) way to train a dog that you're the boss. I have had to break dogs using demotion over the years, because the owners didnt reognize the signs until it was too late. its not too late for you and yours. get started now. The dog will be happier (they really need to know, and sometimes, be put, in their place) and you will too. PM me if you need help. 8) 8)

I too will play devils advocate. while I've never done it, what if you workk full time, live in an apartment or townhouse, and the dog just wont shut up? so you have 1, maybe 2 days a week to try and train the dog, but youre gone all day. he doesnt bark when your're home, only when you're out. the neighbors complain, file a suit. until this happened, you didnt even know he was barking. some people will call the police, or AC, and they may leave a note on your door, but thats usually after they have been aggravated beyond belief. so the judge says "debark"...you cant train, you're not home to do so. so what do you do? I work full time.my dogs bark at every sound, but they are inside a house, not an apartment or a townhouse....

you could make one fairly easily. get two childrens long sleeve black t-shirt or cotton sweater, sew a white cotton V-shaped panel on the front, and white cotton strips for the "sleeves" look. you could even paint on cuff links if you wanted. then use the white fabric to make a necktie sewn on the neck of the t-shirt, and attach a bow tie to it.I've seen it done, its pretty cute.

:lol: :lol: :o :o damn those rocking horses!! my old dog hated Kyle's walker, when he wasnt in it. he would bark at it and try to push it into the kitchen. when Kyle was in it it was ok, but not just sitting there by itself... sometimes they are just WEIRD.....I've accepted that over the years. Laur doesnt like to hear doors open or close.... or the dishwasher changing cycles. :fadein:

by zip line, do you mean a runner? if so, get a steel plastic covered cable, attach it to two structures too wide for the dog to get around, then attach another steel cable with a clip ring to the line. the dog can run so far and get so far side to side(depending on the length of the leash you clip to the line) and then has to stop. not sure if thats what you're looking for tho...

ok I'm the bad guy here I do that all the time. I will howver follow the ranting command with the one they know..ex: lay your ass down NOW! Lay down! eventually they learn the other command as well.... :oops:

cuz I'm the biggest bitch in the lot... Free tried to steal Lore's bone. Lore "objected"...vehemently. a snapfest erupted, both dogs standing their ground over the bone and snapping/snarling....I stepped in and stomped, yelled, and smacked both of them upside the head. its kinda like having kids, NO FIGHTING!!! picked up the bone, put it away and then yelled at both of the to 'LAY DOWN AND SHUT UP!! NOW!!' they did. I have learned over the years that this is not the "correct" manner in which to stopa brawl..it works for me. they are now both laying down and looking apologetic.... I only do this when the "bitch wars" break out...it seems to work... :evilbat:

My Golden used to do that, run out and chase the birds and watch them fly away. he had never been hunting, but one day a cardinal flew into the window of the dining room, broke its neck and died. Taurus went ballistic at the window. I couldnt see the bird, it had fallen in the bushes under the window, so I went out with him to see what the problem was. He dived into the bush, picked up the bird, and very gently carried it over to me and laid it at my feet. not a feather was ruffled....he would have made an excellent retriever for trials, he never hurt anything he picked up, even if it was made of plastic. he still chased birds away, but I would find him watching out that window a lot after that.

Ford is an "ooopps" kitty...he's a grey tabby with little bits of orange in him. two c@ts are good if there are no other pets, but you have Rowie. Dogs and c@ts can bond if they are introduced slowly and properly. Goldens are good at this. My Goldens best friend for the last 6 years of his life was a black siamese mix named Isis. I have a picture of them with Taurus' paws around Isis' shoulder... I NOW have a scanner, so I think I'll get that pic and scan it in for you. look for a kitty who like to be held, who the shelter says is ok with dogs, who doesnt mind being picked up, turned over, rubbed under the chin and generally appears to like being held (if you really want a lap c@t) take Rowie with you to meet the c@t. Dont expect instant acceptace, it wont happen. If the c@t is "ok" with Rowie on the first meeting (doesnt freak out entirely) its probably good to go. watch Rowies responses too. when you get the kitty home, keep them seperate for a while thru a baby gate, until they adjust to each other. once they do, let them be together but watch both sets of responses. I have introduced multiple c@ts and dogs over the years, and they always end up being fine together. Pay as much attention to Rowie as the kitty, equally, and they'll become friends. 8)

well Rowie, I have two. PushyC@t is an independent, ill- tempered, I-want-it-all-NOW cat. at 17 1/2 and failing, he still rules the roost. he was not played with as a kitten, not squished and hugged and loved, and thats what he learned. he willallow me to love on him, but no one else, and only when he wants to. enter Ford, the kitten my son brought home. he was loved on, squished, held, talked to and made a fuss over from 8 weeks. he will climb into your lab, roll over on his back and ask to have his belly rubbed. two entirely different animals, depending on upbringing. He came in not taking any crap from the dogs, and remains that way still. his confidence is unbelievable, but I think thats cuz he was so "cooshed" since being here. they all have different personalities. they can be "cultured" with a little work. 8)

I have hardwood floors, and have area rugs with the slider prevention on the bottom. they can run across them and they dont move. they are also machine washable