TDG

i'm afraid i can't comment on the glucosamine and chondroitin much, other than it being added to dog food is pretty much a marketing gimmick, since the amounts are too low to actually have a therapeuthic effect. a dog would have to eat ridiculous amounts to get enough of it to make a difference. you'd have to look into the amounts contained in the supplement. all the folks i know who have older dogs or dogs with orthopedic issues feed a specific, high-dose G/C supplement.

it's awesome, isn't it? my current dog is the first one i ever trained with a clicker - in fact until about 3 years ago, i hadn't even heard about this method at all and all the training i did in the previous 20+ years was pretty much traditional "old school" stuff. when i first started using the clicker, i felt just as you do right now - absolutely amazed and excited about how simple and effective it makes communication between humans and dogs, and how easily it is phased out once you have trained a behavior to be performed reliably. my dog is a very high-energy guy and as a puppy had the attention span of a mosquito - he even forgot to finish his meals when something more interesting happened to distract him. his willingness to work, regardless if on silly little tricks or serious exercises, is so amazing and he will sit at attention the very second i pull out the clicker, no matter what else is going on. one tip tho: do [b]not[/b] use the sound of the clicker to simply get your dog's attention or to call them to you. that way you are going to decrease the effectivity of the click as a marker signal for "what you did JUST before you heard the click was what gets you the treat". the one and only function of the clicking sound is to mark the moment where the dog did something you want to reinforce. also, whenever you click, you ALWAYS have to treat. do not attempt to fade out the food treat by clicking and not delivering, or the same thing as above is going to happen. you can fade out the clicker by not always clicking a behavior once it's reliable, but instead going to a variable schedule of clicking after a behavior has been performed well the 3rd, 5th, 9th, 14th, 19th etc. time - keep your dog guessing which time he will earn a click. [url=http://www.clickerlessons.com/lessons.html]this page[/url] has some good tips & tricks too.

if you are feeding a quality food made with highly digestible animal protein instead of animal byproducts or poor quality protein fillers, there isn't a real problem for your dog's kidneys, unless the animal is not drinking enough water or unable to process enough water to help the kidneys in processing all the nitrogen in the food (this is where prescription protein-reduced foods make sense). since you are feeding soaked kibble and canned food, this should not be an issue tho. there are also theories that high quality, easily digestible protein poses much less of a problem than poor quality protein (byproducts, meat & bone meal etc.), for which the body has to work hard to extract the nutrients. nupro or doc kruger's are enzyme supplements that directly affect how the food is digested. missing link is basically a natural multivitamin and mineral supplement, but doesn't specifically contain high amounts of enzymes that affect how the dog digests and metabolizes food.

preservatives don't make a food taste better, they do just waht their name reveals: preserve the food from spoilage, or in the case of poor quality foods, prevent spoilage further than it had already progressed before the manufacturing process. it is correct, however, that lesser quality foods are treated with a lot of flavoring agents to make them more appealing to the pets, and often also contain a large amount of salt for the same reason. this is why a dog will often not pick a better quality food over a poor quality food - the quality stuff lacks all the ingredients that are specifically added to make the food interesting to the dog. that is one of the reasons why "palatability tests" are just another bogus advertising gimmick of the companies that make cheapy foods from poor quality ingredients. and that may just be the reason why your dog tries to get into the other dog's foods. :( her weight and condition sound excellent for an older dog. keep in mind that even if she is slightly underweight, that is far more beneficial for her health as it would be if she was slightly overweight. also, the metabolism of older dogs tends to slow down so they can't extract as many nutrients from the same amount of food as in their younger years. you might want to consider feeding a high quality supplement that has enzymes, such as for example nupro or doc kruger's. one thing i would definitely not recommend is putting her on a senior food, since those mostly contain less nutrients than the regular adult types. if you consider any changes, you should increase quality protein intake and try to cut down on carbohydrates, [b]not[/b] the other way around. :)

as long as 1. a dog doesn't have a specific sensivity to corn, 2. corn doesn't replace animal proteins as a protein source, and 3. high quality USDA graded corn is used (as opposed to feed grade corn) there is nothing wrong with it being in a food at all. in fact, especially some large breed dogs tend to do better on corn than for example on rice. however, the food you posted contains a high amount of grains and grain fractions (corn, oat flour, wheat flour, brewers rice) and seems rather low on animal protein. on the upside, it doesn't contain byproducts, generic animal sources or cheap protein fillers like gluten. i do know that the fromm 4-star was among the whole dog journal recommended dry foods for 2004.

i had to find ways to wear my dog out, and i did. the tools i use are called "mountain bike" and "rollerblades", it's impossible to do with just my own two legs. as long as it doesn't get dark early, we do about 9 miles a day, more if other people come along and we have a specific place we want to go. swimming works well, too, and puts less stress on the joints. :)

yes, the blood sample is taken by the vet. there's a 15-minute quick test (titerchek) and one that needs to be sent off to a lab and takes about 10 days until you get results (depending on who you ask, it's often debated that this one is more accurate). [url=http://www.canine-epilepsy-guardian-angels.com/titer_test.htm]here[/url] is a very informative article on the topic.

i agree with everyone else, the plastic airline type is the kind i prefer too. the one i have is a petmate vari-kennel "fashion". i just picked the fashion over the regular grey one because of the color, it's the same as the interior of my car. lol :roll: easy to clean, more versatile, less chance of injury to the dog.

nope, i don't think it was century veterinary group. i know that building because i drive by there a lot. lol what i saw was a white building that had a purple and yellow (i think) banner outside saying something along the lines of holistic veterinary care coming soon. maybe i am mistaken and it wasn't on la cienega tho...

canidae is one of the top of the line foods, way, way superior to diamond, premium edge and some other higher end mid-range foods. together with innova, california natural and a few others, it's in my "favorites" group. the nicest thing about canidae is that it has really top-notch quality ingredients but is still not very expensive at all. i can get the 20 lb bag for $20 and the 40 lb bag for about $35 locally and because it doesn't have excessive amounts of grains and fillers, you have to feed a lot less than for example science diet, so one bag lasts much longer. there are only 2 things to note: - it has multiple protein sources (chicken, turkey, lamb, fish), which is a great thing looking at it from the nutritional side, but some very sensitive dogs have problems with that and need a single-protein food. due to the high ingredient quality chances that complications occur are very slim tho. just make sure you either switch over slowly or fast the dog 24 hours and then switch cold turkey, starting with small amounts. - as always, there 's a chance that a dog doesn't like the taste of the food. most do, but some don't, maybe because canidae isn't loaded with flavorings that are only added to foods to make them more interesting.

diamond makes lots of different formulas and brands, so it's kind of difficult to say. there are types of diamond food that i'd rate better than science diet hands down, others are about equal. you really need to look at the ingredient lists and compare. if you need some help in finding out what is what and how the labeling laws work, [url=http://mordanna.com/dogfood/]look here[/url]. if i had to feed a food made by diamond, i'd probably pick [url=http://www.premiumedgepetfood.com/]premium edge[/url] rather than the "diamond" product line. it's a little more expensive but has a higher content of animal based protein (vs. grains), and "real" meat instead of byproducts.

well, nobody can make you feed your dogs something you don't want to feed. the decision is ultimately up to you. if you feel that euk is appropriate and you don't think your dogs could do better on something else, don't switch. if you aren't sure, do some research ([url=http://www.mordanna.com/dogfood/]here's a good place to start for example[/url]) until you feel confident to make a decision. the health aspects aside, i think eukanuba is rather overpriced for its type of quality. i don't feed it and don't know how much local prices vary, but $30 to $34 for a 20 lb bag of euk seems very expensive to me, and i live in a place where everything is expensive. feeding cost isn't equal bag for bag for different types of food. you have to figure out how much your daily feeding cost is by the amount you have to feed of a specific type, and how much it would increase or decrease by having to feed more or less than of the euk. if you let me know how much each dog eats per day and which type of food you are feeding, i can post a calculation on averages for you.

[quote name='courtnek']well, I stand by my post. I am a single. work full time mom. On top of that, my son and myself are diabetics...junk food is OUT..[/quote] i don't understand what there is to "stand by". a lot of very simple steps to improve the overall quality of your diet doesn't take much time out of your day, even if you have a busy schedule. it's just a question of adapting, as a diabetic you should know that. :) and even feeding a raw or homemade diet doesn't take up a lot of time, maybe an hour of preparation for a week's worth of meals. i know what all this is like from experience, plus being self employed and often not able to rely on a routine 9 to 5, 5-day a week schedule, because sometimes a customer's problems just can't wait until the next day or after the weekend. see, due to that fact that you are diabetic and have a diabetic son, you and him are already eating healthier than many other people out there. i think you are really misunderstanding what i am trying to say here! [quote name='courtnek']I use the dog foods that show the best results..health, coat, stools. Purina has provided that. Some people may disagree, but Purina has given me dogs that live to 12 and 13 years old...without issues....large dogs, all of them.[/quote] while i don't think that purina is a particularly great food, i'd still rate it as better than iams, plus purina has better business ethics. 6 years ago you wouldn't have heard me complaining about iams/euk either, because back then they were an independent company and used quality ingredients to make good products - that were [b]not[/b] sold at grocery stores. i remember feeding one of my dogs iams puppy food 12 years ago, it actually smelled pleasant and did not make you gag from the stink of poor quality ingredients like it does now. and purina was a notch up the ladder too, before nestle bought them up. take that into consideration when you are looking back at what you fed your dogs in the past. [quote name='courtnek']I often add the food I make for my son and myself into their dinners. Its' home cooked, not fast food. maybe that helps, I dont know. But a little "extra" in their dinner, by my cooking, has never hurt them.[/quote] and there you hit the nail on the head. supplementation with some less processed, better quality things [b]does[/b] make a difference. your dog actually gets some food that has [b]not[/b] been cooked pretty much to death! the old wives tale that feeding table scraps is "bad" for your dog is just something the pet food industry wants to make people believe, because they want to sell their product. and i bet my bottom dollar that most dogs who do [b]not[/b] get any extras and eat only poor quality foods all their life aren't going to be the ones living to a ripe old age. and you would probably see even more drastic improvements if you fed them more homemade stuff! :)

generally you are right, courtnek. what i was trying to say is that you can not know in 10 days how "good" or "bad" a food is for your particular individual dog. [b]but[/b] that is exactly what the company is trying to do, making customers believe that in 10 days they can turn around the health status of their dog (or cat). it is also true that purina has been around for a long time, but do keep in mind that companies change hands (example: purina being bought up by nestle, pedigree being bought up by mars, iams/euk being bought up by P&G) and food formulations also change. pet food companies do not have to put a warning label on their products when formulations change and there is even a grace period of 2 months or so during which a changed formulation can be sold in the old package with the old ingredient label.

well, for some reason i can't seem to stay logged in today. the above was me - once again. :P

i mean long term effects on a pet's system like what is caused by all the chemicals used to denature meat when it is condemned as unfit for human consumption, the contaminants of lesser quality grains, synthetic preservatives used on such ingredients as poultry fat (that do [b]not[/b] have to be declared by the manufacturer, because they were already in the fat when they bought it from a supplier), contamination of feed-grade calcium and phosphate supplements due to chemical processing and high amounts of salt (most iams and euk formulations have more salt in them than e.g. flax meal or other more beneficial ingredients).

blah, that was me, not logged in. lol :o

what about the fact that there are higher quality foods out there that are not as overpriced as iams or eukanuba? other than that, aren't you concerned about the contamination that could cause health problems in the long run?

except for the fact that a 10-day trial isn't going to prove much. even the 6-month trials that are one option of AAFCO certification aren't really enough. what if the food gives your dog a shiny coat in 10 days or 2 weeks, but after eating the food for 3-6 months the kidneys are stressed into failure? purina has a giant testing facility, located in missouri as far as i know. they actually do real kennel testing over generations and with various groups of dogs. you can even visit this facility, and a lot of dog-related events are hosted there too. other companies give food to breeders for free, and the breeders in turn promise they will not use any outside products for a set time. [b]that[/b] is in my opinion the best way to go about testing. or like eagle pack - sponsoring mushers. :)

i'm on the west side. marina del rey/culver city/venice area. i too like the jindos, but they aren't a breed that would suit my lifestyle. i like to take my dog on road trips, camping, hiking etc. and wouldn't want to have to worry about prey drive/aggression/being territorial, especially in unfamiliar areas.

the following things come to mind about the jindo: - high prey drive and hunting instinct, so not ideal if you have other animals or live in an area with a lot of wildlife (think dog chases squirrel and gets hit by car). - due to the above, you need a [b]very[/b] secure yard and be diligent on obedience training, otherwise you'll never be able to give this kind of dog a chance to run off leash. - it's a highly independent and dominant breed. continuous socialization and training is a [b]must[/b] and they are not always ideal additions for a multi-dog household. here in the L.A. area, they are fairly common, and a lot of them end up in the shelters , probably because their owners aren't prepared to deal with such a demanding breed. here are some more links for you [url]http://jindo.org/ownership.htm[/url] [url]http://members2.boardhost.com/JindoRescue/[/url] [url]http://home.att.net/~semencic/second.htm[/url] [url]http://www.jindoproject.org/[/url] [url]http://www.ckcusa.com/j_breeds/m_jindo.html[/url]

my husband hates getting licked, so i taught my dog not to do it. the dog knows he can get away with a quick lick or two on me, but for the most part leaves my husband and other people alone and stops immediately when you tell him "no licking". i've taught dogs i've worked with that it is okay to "give kisses" on command, but not otherwise. if you take your dog to places with a lot of people interaction (dog park, events etc.), i find dogs who lick a lot to be rather pushy and rude.

[quote]yes, that's the dog walk, I used the command "Walk-it" with my last dog.[/quote] it's kind of difficult to properly translate that in a short phrase - there is no proper, direct translation for it. personally i'd use "hier lang", meaning "this way", but i guess that's not really what you are looking for. you could go for "lauf" (meaning "walk", pronounced "louf"). [quote]How's it ryhme with tripple? So... like... the i is pronounced ip, like zip, and not the I sound as in "I am"? That what you mean?[/quote] yep, exactly! :) push is "stoss" (shtoss) or "schubs" (shubbs), but stoss has more of a connotation of shove and schubs is more like poke. the translation "stack" is for the secondary meaning, as in "a stack of pancakes" (ein stoss pfannkuchen), but it has nothing to do with pushing...

[quote name='HazelNutMeg']thanks SRC... That's crazy... Bablefish SUCKS... i type in something, it translates it back, and according to what your sayin there it's wrong :hmmmm: Well, most of them anyway... Here's what I got as the direct translations from Bablefish... Table - Tabelle Walk - It - Gehen-Es Frame - Feld Tire - Gummireifen Teeter - Schaukel Weave - Webart Push - Sto

crested, they are herbal tinctures of very common plants, i am sure you can get them. they are two things i always have in my medicine cabinet, for people as well as pets. i also take them with me when camping and hiking, as part of my first aid kit. calendula is also known as marigold (keh