TDG

for any of you who can't stand dealing with raw liver, you can buy human grade liver powder at the health food store or order it online. a good brand is "now foods", 12 oz will cost you around $6 or so. it's a very light weight powder, so you get a lot in one container. [url]http://www.nowfoods.com/?action=itemdetail&item_id=3826[/url]

kibble is a generic name for any kind of dry food. :)

in my opinion, adult foods are generally the better alternative, even for puppies. provided they are labeled as "for all lifestages". there are very few adult foods out there that are of such a low quality that they don't meed that standard. i'd say go for it, chicken soup is a good food. digestion is the first thing that comes to mind after reading your description, so that may well be the problem.

permission to cross post by the author has been granted. apologies if it has been posted here already, i poked around a bit but didn't see it. [url]http://www.deviantart.com/view/11454716/[/url]

[quote name='Pumpkin the musher']Just goes to show you can't trust everything you read on the internet. I think that the mushers who live in Alaska would be very surprised to hear about salmon poisoning, seeing that most of them feed allot of raw salmon, with no ill effects that I'm aware of. I purchased and fed over 500 pounds of raw salmon last year, no problems.[/quote] i bet most or all of that was frozen at some point prior to feeding it tho, right? freezing destroys most parasites, so it's quite safe to feed.

[quote name='Kat']TDG, the source of the tryptophan poisoning stemmed from the royal college of veterinary surgeons in london. It was around 5 years ago but several dogs were presented around the christmas period. First thoughts were drawn to chocolate but all owners had sworn that their dogs didn't get access to chocolate. It was then discovered that it was copious amounts of roasted turkey. I have access to research papers so I will look through the archives and see if it is there. I'm not trying to undermind you in any way by the way. :wink:[/quote] kat, are you sure this is an issue of tryptophan tho? i know that pancreatitis is often a problem when dogs get into holiday foods, but that is generally because they consume a large amount of fatty food they aren't used to. it has nothing to do with the tryptophan. check out tryptophan content per 100g serving in different food products here: [url]http://nutritiondata.com/foods-000079000000000000000-w.html[/url] i know of many, many people who feed turkey as one of the main protein sources in a home prepared diet and none of the nutritionists or veterinarians they or i consulted with mentioned it as an issue. and please don't worry, i don't feel undermined at all, kat. :) it's just that canine nutrition is my special field of interest and i'm trying very hard to stay on top of things.

fish - yes, salmonid species from the pacific northwest can cause what's commonly known as "salmon poisoning". [url]http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/ClientED/salmon.asp[/url] heavy metal contamination is more of a concern in large deepwater fish like tuna. mackerel and herring is fine as far as i know. peanuts - are actually not nuts but legumes. generally tolerated very well by dogs, but peanut butter is very fatty and shouldn't be fed in unreasonable amounts. tahini (sesame butter) is a nice alternative. you can find it in the ethnic section of supermarkets.

[quote name='Kat']Thanks for correcting it, but yes in large quantities turkey is a danger to dogs as it contains high levels of tryptophan.[/quote] tryptophan isn't toxic. it's an amino acid that, among other things, the body utilizes to produce serotonin. whatever portion isn't used is converted into energy. add to that the fact that there are other meats that have the same or an even higher content of tryptophan. just as an example, 4 ounces of turkey meat contain about 350 mg of tryptophan. 4 ounces of innova dry dog food contain about 450 mg. even just a medium sized dog eating that food every day gets 1.3 times the dose of tryptophan than it would get by eating turkey. a larger dog can easily get to 2.5 times the dose or even more. in all my nutritional studies i haven't found any credible, factual sources that describe tryptophan as toxic for dogs. none of the handbooks even mention it, they all just describe that cats are unable to convert tryptophan to niacin (such as e.g. "canine and feline nutrition" by case, carey, hirakawa and daristotle). if you know of literature that factually proves that tryptophan is indeed dangerous to dogs, please do let me know. i'm always willing to listen to evidence, but right now the evidence i have says otherwise. :)

[quote name='Matty']As far as cheese goes, most animals like cats and dogs are lactose intolerant. In "some" animals milk products may cause diarrhea. Even with humans milk products are the #1 reason behind allergies and other such problems (ie ear aches etc.). Some people cannot tolerate lactose either.[/quote] the key question is - does the dairy product in question even contain lactose. fermented products, such as yogurt or cottage cheese do not contain lactose because the bacteria have converted it already. even most types of cheese do not contain any lactose, or only traces.

[quote name='Matty']Here is a link for you with all the information you require. [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&cat=1276&articleid=1030[/url][/quote] i'd like to debunk some baseless myths perpetuated on that page: 1. "bones" in general are fine to give. many people, like me, feed a home prepared diet that includes raw bones of just about any imaginable animal. the statement should be corrected to "[b]cooked[/b] bones. it's a constant source of frustration to me how many people waste their money on poor quality chewing items "especially designed for dogs" that are far worse than fresh, raw, untreated bones and contain a lot of chemicals and fillers. [b]those[/b] are what people should stay away from. 2. "milk and other dairy products" yes, some dogs are lactose intolerant, just like some humans, but that doesn't mean they can't enjoy dairy products as valuable additions to their diet. fermented products, such as yogurt and cottage cheese for example, only have traces of lactose left, if any at all, because they contain certain cultures of bacteria. cheese is also not bad for dogs and makes a better treat than most of the commercial dog treats you find at grocery stores or mainstream pet stores. 3. the garlic has already been addressed by someone else in theis thread, small amounts are fine. 4. "raw eggs" it is true that the egg white contains avidin, which breaks down biotin, but there is also the fact that the egg yolk contains more than enough biotin to make up for this. unless you constantly [b]only[/b] feed large amounts of egg white without the yolk, this isn't an issue at all. eggs are excellent additions to the diet and can even be included on a daily basis. 5. raw fish - same as with garlic. if it's only fed as part of a well balanced diet, there isn't a problem. i blame a lot of the content of such "do not feed" lists on the fact that they are sponsored by companies who have an interest in selling commercial pet foods and supplements. just consider the source.

[quote name='Kat']turkey (in large quantities), grapes, raisins all contain tryptophan which is an enzyme that can be toxic to dogs. [/quote] please allow me to step in here and correct that statement, since it's completely wrong on not just one level. 1. tryptophan is [b]not[/b] an enzyme but an [i]essential amino acid[/i]. it is [b]not[/b] toxic to dogs. 2. essential amino acids [b]must[/b] be present in a dog's diet because the body can not synthesize them. amino acids are the "building blocks" that form proteins, which are consequently also essential in a dog's diet. the 10 essential ones for dogs are arginine, methionine, histidine, phenylalanine, isoleucine, threonine, leucine, tryptophan, lysine and valine. for cats there is one more - taurine. humans can synthesize both arginine and taurine. 3. turkey is an excellent source of protein and often a viable alternative for dogs who are allergic or sensitive to other sources like beef, chicken, lamb etc. where that "danger factor" comes in is when dogs who usually do not get anything but dry kibble are overfed with turkey skin during the holidays. the skin is very fatty and can cause pancreatitis. 4. raisins and grapes are toxic to dogs, but the toxin is as of yet unknown. you can find an article on the topic at the ASPCA's animal poison control website: [url]http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=grapes[/url]

first of all you need to adjust your dog's diet to produce an urine ph level that isn't supportive of the bacteria causing it. meat (which a dog is supposed to eat) makes urine acidic, and many, many dog foods have way too much grains and not enough meat in them. look into alternatives. also give vitamin C, which isn't only a great antioxidant but will also help to keep the urine acidic. cranberry capsules or apple cider vinegar are good alternatives. also try to get your dog to drink as much as possible to flush out bacteria. add tepid water to the kibble if you feed dry food. you can also give low sodium beef-, chicken- or vegetable broth, tuna water or any other fluid appropriate for dogs. probiotics are also a good idea, especially when your dog is on antibiotics already. normally i'd recommend plain, cultured yogurt (brown cow, stonyfield farm and horizon organic are 3 more well known brands that have all the different beneficial bacteria and not just starter cultures), but in your situaiton that might not be enough. look for products like pet ag bene bac or canine dophilus by natren. if you take proactive steps, things won't get out of hand far enough to have to fight them with antibiotics. meanwhile, as long as you [i]hae[/i] to give them, hide the pills in something yummy like spam or canned sardines. most dogs gulp that stuff without looking twice.

bright life is blue seal's higher end product. their other foods are of such poor quality that the company doesn't even publish ingredient info online. considering the quality of ingredients it's made from, it's totally overpriced. you can get foods without food industry byproducts (yeast culture, egg product, tomato pomace) and with higher quality meats (hormone free etc.) and USDA graded grains for the same price or even less.

it's not going to kill her, but make sure she eats her own food before she snacks on senior food. senior foods are not formulated for growth, just for maintenance, and will not supply all the nutrients a growing kitten needs.

HF, have you checked the natura website for suppliers in your area? [url]http://www.naturapet.com/display.php?d=stores-tab[/url] do searches both by zip code and telephone area code, the search engine doesn't work all that well if you are too specific. lol as for the protein - it has actually been proven that a high protein content will not cause kidney problems. and even for dogs in renal failure, experts have learned that severely restricting protein isn't necessary. what is important, however, is that high quality, highly digestible protein is healthier than poor quality protein sources that are hard to digest. i'm not sure about cost yet but have read on some other forum that prices are around $40/42 for the 28.6 lb and $20 for the 13.2lbs bag. but i think even if people could just feed it as sort of a supplement, it would still be a huge improvement for the diet.

well my sample arrived in the mail today and my cats as well as the dog went nuts over this food. which says a lot, since my cats are about the piciest critters you can imagine and they've never before "approved" any kind of dog food. mind you, these asre animals who get fresh, raw foods as well, so they don't really have a reason to go bonkers over dry food. it is made into tiny, tiny square-ish bits, even smaller than the regular innova adult or innova cat kibbles. more soon :)

mixed tocopherols = vitamin E. :)

natura's newest product, innova EVO, is going to hit the shelves within the next few weeks. it's different from any other kibble i've ever seen before and many other pet food companies will have to measure their foods by a completely new standard. here are the specs: [b]* grain free * low carb (only 12% carbs, most other kibbles are 40%-60% carbs, just for comparison)[/b] [b]ingredients:[/b] Turkey, Chicken, Turkey Meal, Chicken Meal, Potato, Herring Meal, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols, a natural source of Vitamin E), Natural Flavors, Eggs, Potassium Chloride, Choline Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Garlic, Apples, Carrots, Tomatoes, Cottage Cheese, Alfalfa Sprouts, Dried Chicory Root, Ascorbic Acid, Taurine, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Vitamins (Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin, d-Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin A Supplement, Vitamin D Supplement, Beta Carotene, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Biotin, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid), Minerals (Zinc Proteinate, Iron Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Manganese Proteinate, Cobalt Proteinate, Calcium Iodate), Direct Fed Microbials (Dried Lactobacillus acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus casei Fermentation Product, Dried Bifidobacterium thermophilum Fermentation Product, Dried Enterococcus faecium Fermentation Product) [b]guaranteed analysis:[/b] Crude Protein (minimum)...........42.0% Crude Fat (minimum).................22.0% Crude Fiber (maximum)............. 2.5% Moisture (maximum).................. 10.0% Linoleic Acid (minimum).............. 4.2% Vitamin E (minimum)................. 300 IU/kg Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)* (minimum).................. 500 mg/kg Omega-3 Fatty acids (minimum)... 0.50% Total Microorganisms* (minimum)..........90,000,000 CFU/LB (Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus casei, Bifidobacterium thermophilum, Enterococcus faecium in equal amounts [b]calorie content:[/b] 4243 kcal/kg 537 kcal/cup 1 cup=4.40 oz (124 g) i'll have some more details (other than what you can find at naturapet.com) in a few days and will update this thread. :) it's definitely a product worth looking at, i plan on testing it on my next road trip, when home prepared isn't exactly a convenient choice. [edit note: i can't spell. lol]

look up some european breed sites for whatever breeds you are interested in. both docking and cropping has been stopped there since the early 2000s. here are some pics of traditionally cropped/docked breeds and their new, natural looks: [url]http://www.ypsohem.freeservers.com/fotoalbumindex1.htm[/url] [url]http://www.dobermann.com/pruefungen_04/dm2004_bilder.htm[/url] [url]http://www.dobis.net/neu/deutsch/hund_monat/abbey/abbey.htm[/url] [url]http://www.familie-bumba.de/html/body_galerie_1.html[/url]

i like the UKC because they aren't as elitist as the AKC when it comes to allowing spayed/neutered mixed breeds to compete in many different activities, from obedience to agility and in their accepted breeds they focus more on a capable working dog that meets the breed standard and not just looks. the AKC is too much about looks and not enough about preserving the integrity of the breeds it recognizes.

well, luckily things turned out ok this time, but you shouldn't risk it again. cooked bones become brittle and can break into dangerously sharp splinters. if you want to give your dog the fun experience of recreational bones, go to your butcher or meat department at the grocery store and get him some knuckle bones. they are also called soup bones or marrow bones. ask for ones that are not cut into slices but whole, or if sliced, only lenghtwise. beef ribs and beef chuck neck bones are nice too.

yes, dogs actually do eat bones. mine does on a daily basis. just please [b]only[/b] give raw bones, never anything that has been cooked, smoked, dried or otherwise treated.

if you want a clinical answer, the estimated energy requirement for a 6 lb adult dog on weight maintenance (no loss or gain planned) is - about 195 kcal for an inactive dog (older animal, no real exercise, no walks), - about 260 kcal for moderate activity (no extensive walks but playing indoors and normal activity) and - about 315 kcal for a very active dog who gets a lot of physical exercise every day (including at least 45 minutes of vigorous walking). this includes the total daily caloric intake, food as well as treats. take the caloric requirement per day and divide it by the caloric content per cup of the food you are feeding. the result is your feeding amount. so if you have a food that has 400 kcal per cup, an inactive dog would get a little less than half a cup per day, a moderately active dog a little more than 2/3 and an active dog just under 4/5 of a cup, calculated without extra treats being given. since these numbers are only averages that are influenced by a lot of other factors (e.g. the metabolism of the individual dog, climate etc.), just keep an eye on the weight and cut back or add a little depending on how the dog develops.

when i adopted my dog from the shelter, most of his whiskers were missing too. the first three months of his life he lived as a stray on a poor diet and his coat and whiskers were so brittle they'd simply break off. he looked fairly shorthaired and it took quite a while on a good diet for his coat to grow in healthier. when it finally did, it turned out to be medium length. i don't think it has anything to do with the mother biting them off for a purpose, she or the littermates could have done it simply out of boredom or it could be a nutrition issue like in my little guy.

i feed two meals a day, with the evening meal being a chunk of raw meaty bone (turkey necks, lamb shanks, chicken backs, turkey and chicken wings, beef, pork and lamb necks and ribs and various other pieces. these i just hack into portion sized chunks and freeze them. feeding is done in seconds. the morning meals consist of various recipes made from organ meats and oddities like heart, lung, tripe, fruits and vegetables, nuts and seeds and small amounts of grains. these i prepare in batches for two weeks in advance and freeze them. at feeding time, i add yogurt, a heaping teaspoon of dr. pitcairn's healthy powder and whatever other supplements are required. basic recipes are from his books, with some personal tweaks to my liking, since overall i find most of his standard recipes are a little high in grains. if you organize your shopping, it's really not hard. i shop as needed and freeze semi prepared things (such as different varieties of blended raw veggie mush, organ and meat blends cut in chunks etc.) so i only have to thaw a few containers, mix the recipe, cook part of the ingredients if it's called for and then refreeze in portions. whenever i have leftovers and trimmings of meats or veggies that are suitable for dog food, i alzo freeze them for later use. i have a pretty solid background in nutrition, so i feel confident doing things my own way rather than following a strict regimen set forth by someone else. i find the whole BARF thing too overdone when it comes to supplements.