imported_Cassie

OK, this is really dumb...but, I am really curious...when they list meat meal, meat by products...basically anything that does not name the actual animal used...could this be horse meat??? I am curious as I was reading a horse magazine the other day and they were advertising some supplements for older horses with arthritis...it stated not to be used on horses being used for meat...I also am aware that its really expensive to cremate a horse or to use the body as land fill...I am just curious about this as I know that horse meat is used for some dog foods...but, of course you never see it listed on the ingredients....or do they list horse meat??? I think I have too much time on my hands or some thing.... :oops:

Thanks every one...((hugs)) It really makes me sad to think that there are other dogs out there on these cold cold nights which may be lost....or even sadder, tied in some ones back yard with inadequate shelter. I really am falling for this character, he and my Rottweiler are hitting it off wonderfully...and my Newf's are great throw rugs for him to curl up with! :lol: I have named him Beau...and he seems to be responding to this name...I have taught him to sit already...he is very hungry and at first was almost attacking me to get to the food I was trying to give him...I now have him sit before I place the dish down. My Rottie has already taught him its not wise to try to steal her food... :lol: he is very submissive towards the other dogs...I have a new doggy bed for him (compliments of one of my friends) and he seems to be settling in great....my Rottie and my oldest female Newfoundland are not quite prepared to let him up on my bed yet.... :lol: they are really playful with him, but, they are also showing him whos who in the household. My 2 intact male Newfoundlands are very playful with him and have been trying to lick his ears...he is not too keen on that as they are very painful from the ear infection. I am really hoping no one claims him...I have already talked to my friend with the SPCA, she advised me not to give out too much information on the radio...if some one calls ask them to describe the dog to me and how long has he been lost...if they say only a few days or a week etc. then my friend advised me not to give him back...and they will want the persons name for possible neglect charges...or what ever they do...perhaps keep track of bad dog owners for future reference...gee, I really should ask her what they would do to the person. Thanks every one for your well wishes...he is such a dear. The only problem we have run into was he nipped one of the Vet tech's while they were checking his ears....he is OK with me or my sister around his ears, I think he has just been through so much and was just starting to trust me and then 2 strangers whisk him away without my being with him to poke and prode him...I will work on this in the future, right now I just want him to be healthy....behavior and attitudes or fear based issues can be worked on later.

OMG! Dog Lover I am in the same boat!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: I don't think I'll ever find a man either....the dogs are about the closest I will come to having anything breathing in my bed! :lol: :lol: We were at a club the other night, a man passed out on the dance floor...I kindly dragged him off so he would not get danced on by a bunch of drunks...now, the rumer around the Vet clinic I work at (all the staff and I were out partying after our x-mas party) they have made up a story that I am so desperate for a man that I am trying to abduct passed out ones and drag them to my car! all I need now is child proof locks on my car door so they can't escape once I got them...as my fellow employees stated that the passed out drunk slobbered up enough to crawl away from me!!!! :lol:

Well, I now am the proud owner of a new dog! now I have 6 dogs. Friday, on my way to work I saw a dobie mix running down the side of the busy highway...I pulled over and opened my door to get out to see if the dog was perhaps lost (the closest house is miles away) the dog jumped into my car....I was shocked at how scrawny the poor dog was... :o the grooming shop I work at is located under the Vet clinic I also work at...the dog stunk, coat very dull and I could easily put my fingers between each rib, its spinal cord is sticking out....just pitiful! I took it up stairs to have it examined...its malnutritioned, starving, gums are bleeding from poor nutrition etc. it is one of the saddest things I have ever seen.... :cry: It is not neutered either...any way, other than being starved etc. and he has a very bad ear infection...he is the nicest dog, and gets along with all 5 of my pack...pretty good considering I already have 2 intact males at home. I am going to wait about a week before getting him vaccinated, his immunity is too low right now to handle vaccines at this point, and I will have him neutered in probably a month or so...he is too weak to go under sedation. This just breaks my heart, I am so thankful I picked him up...I live in Canada and our winters are so cold...the Vets told me the dog has been on the run for quite some time, they are surprised he made it this long. I am going to put an alert on the radio about a found dog, and the SPCA has been noticfied...my friend is the head of the SPCA...she said I can keep the dog and they will not confiscate him....usually a case like this where serious neglect, or possible disease may be involved they would have quarantined him...but, he has been examined and the Vets said that he seems to be free of diseases...he will be wormed as well. I am taking him to work with me daily so the Vets can keep an eye on him for any unusual problems. If he just merely got away from his owners, perhaps seeking a bitch in heat...I will consider giving him back...but, I doubt very much...I think he was dumped...you should see him, he looks like a freak dog...the funniest looking thing I have ever seen....looks like a red dobe without the tail docked or ears cropped...very tall, too tall for a dobie...has a greyhound like body... I love him so much already even though it has only been 2 - 1/2 days that I have had him...he is sitting here beside me right now with his head on my lap...

Court, I am so sorry for you. The thing that makes me maddest is the police do not offer protection just for verbal threats...I have had friends beat up by their boyfriends and have restraining orders against them...this still hasn't been good enough protection for them...one night one of my friends was seriously beat up by her ex out side a club, no one got involved to help her, by the time the cops got there...around here the cops hate gettting involved in domestic disputes...she was in pretty rough shape, he got a slap on the wrist and she had plasic surgery. The was the crimanal system is set up now a days, its too easy for a person to be victomized. My suggestion to you...I know you mentioned you are well armed...but, the best things to keep by your bed at night and in your purse is a good bottle of mace or pepper spray...I don't know where you can get them...but, a few people who are really into dogs that I know of keep them around in case of a dog fight breaking out...and a good cattle prod with a high electric shock...the Vet clinic I work at keeps one of these just in case of a horrible dog attack...then if it ever came up in court as to why you had these in your posession...well then you can explain you have 2 dogs which you were worried may have a horrible huge fight and you kept these for dog related purposes. Pepper spray the idiot first, then shock him with the cattle prod... Although I am in Canada, I would glady come down with my 5 dogs...let my Rottie catch him...then my Newf's could drown him in slobber....what a way to end a phyco's life! I don't think there is any law against death by slobber???? I hope all goes well for you and your boy...perhaps arm him with some pepper spray as well...aim for the eyes.

All of my dogs are allowed in my bed....I can only fit 2 and the other 3 alternate nights! plus my 3 cats sleep in bed with us...its difficult when most of your dogs weigh over 150lbs each (except my Rottie, she is only about 120lbs). I dealt with major dominace issues ith my Rottweiler and in the past I have had some major issues with domiance with alot of different dogs. But, it never stopped me from letting them sleep with me. My Rottie's issues only lasted about 3 months before she learned the ropes of the house hold. My dogs live by the nothing is free rule, having 5 large dogs I have to establish plenty of control up front...they are all perfect angels now...but, it takes patience and control and never letting yourself get upset by the things dogs will do...I have to take 3 deep breaths at times and think about the dogs...the way I want them to live is not natural for them...so I guide my dogs to better behavior...I don't force them...yes, they screw up at times...so do I. :lol: I find that there are some people who are just better at controlling dominant dogs than others...and still let their dogs do all the things you are warned about never letting your dominant dog do.

The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without being so big that the puppies get 'lost.' For large breed dogs, it is also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor must be level and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies in, but be hinged or have a door so the bitch can come and go. The sides may set inside the edges of the floor. This allows a blanket to be stretched tight over the floor and held in place by the sides. A safety rail is necessary around the entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the bitch lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be set up in a warm, quiet, safe location. A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away from the heat source. The heat lamp light should be diffused with aluminum foil with holes poked in it with a needle. This protects the bulb from accidental contact and protects the puppies eyes from bright light. Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken outside to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction. Whelping supplies Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper towels, and other garbage. A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the puppies are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the bitch between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next sibling arrives. NEVER USE WOOD SHAVINGS FOR PREGNANT OR NEWBORN ANIMALS. A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off puppies if necessary. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach to minimize staining of the towels. Other supplies to have on hand include the following: Sterile hemostats and blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cord, if necessary Alcohol and matches to sterilize the hemostats and scissors (dip the instrument in the alcohol, hold downward, light with a match - do not hold upward, as the alcohol (and fire) will go down your hand) Heavy sewing thread, dental floss, or suture (to tie umbilical cords if necessary) Lubricating (petroleum) jelly Several pairs of sterile surgical gloves Rubber pediatric bulb syringe Surgical antiseptic scrub/iodine Tube feeder, syringe, bottle and nipple, and puppy milk replacer (such as Esbilac) Gram or ounce scale depending on average size of newborn puppy for your breed Stethoscope Nail polish to mark puppies for identification (puppies look remarkably similar and the best way to identify them is with marks) Thermometer - rectal to monitor the bitch's temperature Household thermometer to monitor the air temperature in the whelping box High-quality puppy food, cottage cheese, vanilla yogurt, and/or vanilla ice cream for the bitch Fresh water for the bitch Regular number for veterinary clinic and the emergency veterinary clinic number Numbers for family/friends/sitter to watch the children during delivery and, if necessary, to go to vet clinic Whelping books Vetwrap to wrap the tail of a long-haired bitch Flashlight with new batteries Clock or watch to time the birth Camera, film, and extra battery Something for you to do while waiting - cards, magazines, etc. Ink pen (and an extra) and note pad - mark the arrival time, sex, weight, color, and markings (either natural markings or id mark you apply), and if placenta was expelled Make sure the phone cord reaches the whelping box or that the battery for the cordless phone is charged Cot for you to sleep on Predicting the delivery time Average gestation is about 63 days from the date of conception, which may be different than the date(s) of breeding(s). The normal due date can be about 1 week either side of the predicted 63 days. Several changes that may be noticeable in the bitch the last week before delivery include a distended, 'dropped' abdomen, enlarged and softened vulva, enlarged nipples, and full mammary glands. Taking her temperature at least twice a day the last 10 days before the delivery date is also helpful. Some bitch's temperatures will drop below 99

Good thing is was only a shoe lace! :lol: With tapeworms the look like small peices of dried rice which appear at around the bum and can stick to the hair. They appear to look like dried peices of rice, or when they are fresh they can look like plump peices of rice and can move...each of the segments on a tapeworm has its own reproductive system... Now roundworms are different, their eggs are hatched and go out with the dogs feces..the eggs are microscopic....I have seen dogs vomit up roundworms with heavy infestations and some times you will see an actual worm come out in the feces....they can be long and look like a peice of string. Humans can get roundworms and can be very dangerous especially to children...the microscopic eggs can stick to the dogs rear end and by petting the dog a child or adult can get them on their hands...if you don't wash before eating or putting your fingers in your mouth....well, you can be infected....the eggs can also lay dorment in the soil for years....when your dog has a bowel movement and is infected with roundworms the eggs can stay in the environment and can be picked up by local children, or dogs etc. What I do is, I have my dogs checked every 3 months for worms..I take a lovely little package to my Vets containing a fecal sample from my dogs....they check for a few different types of worms...then I only treat if necessary.

Rotties, APBT's, German Shepherds etc. have been around along long time...what happened to the days of yesteryear when we seemed to be more dog smart???? when I was a child we used to gather all the neighborhood dogs including our own dogs...the breeds and mixed breeds consisted of Husky's, Shepherds, pit bull type dogs (just looked like them, probably were not full blooded as they liked the other dogs) border collie (my dog) shepherd/husky mix (my dog), Great Dane/Shepherd, Rottie mix etc. there were no little dogs in my neighborhood, all big dogs. We never had a problem, we just seemed to be more dog smart...and our parents knew alot about dogs and other animals as they grew up on farms etc. and they taught us common sense around them. A friend of mine was nipped one day for trying to shove grass up a local Great Dane/Shepherd's nostrils...the dog did not break skin, just a warning nip...my friends parents punished my friend, not the dog...and they asked why he did some thing so stupid. Did we have more stable dogs back then, or perhaps people were a little bit smarter????

This really upsets me, I live fairly close to N.S. Canada kendalyn...I never heard of the Grandfather clause, do they give the owners more time to rehome their babies? I couldn't imagine what I would do if this happened in my province...my dogs, especially my Rottie are my life! she is like my child...how would you give up your own child? I'd have to move or protest. The thing that gets me is that if people actually understood our Canine companions there would not be so many problems and breeds would not be banned. After the incident with the Waddell boy Rotties have a very bad name around here....I can't even be seen in public with my Rottie, last week I had a lady yell at me, another friend of mine who shows her Rotties and puts them through obedience trials, uses them for therapy dogs and has Canine good citizens awards on all of her dogs...she was stopped while walking her dogs on a private country lane by a neighborhood women who lives about 2 miles away...the neighbor yelled at her stating she was frightened to let her children out side to play for fear my friends Rotties would kill them!!!! :evil: these dogs have a wonderful home where they live indoors with the owners own chidren...oh by the way....the neighborhood children are no longer allowed to come up to play at this house since there are Rotties there...they always played there before, and my friend has always been very concientious of her dogs and had them in the kennel while children were up...even though they probably would have loved to come out and play.

[quote]Rottweilers will be banned in Guysborough County... "we've had complaints over the years about Rottweilers and public support for the amendment is very positive" Warden Lloyd Hines said Monday. An amendment will be made to a municipal bylaw that banned pit bulls six years ago. Rottweiler owners will be given six months to a year to relocate their dogs after the bylaw passes in February. Before an amendment to a bylaw becomes effective, it must be preceded by two months notice. Rottweilers have been blamed for a number of attacks, including one that killed four year old James Waddell on the Kingston Peninsula in New Brunswick earlier this year.[/quote] Where does it end????

How horrible for this poor dog. Human nature is strange...a few months ago at the Vet clinic I work at we had a cute little border collie mix come in to have bullets removed from its head and to take care of the cuts where it had been beaten by a shovel...apparently the dog was tied to a tree, beat with the shovel and then shot in the head...the dog survived and chewed threw the rope and ran to the nearest home. The people who found the dog could not keep her, but, they did pay for some of the Vet care....the Vets took care of the rest. When the story of this dog hit the papers we had hundreds of calls from people wanting to adopt...confusing...especially as we have hundreds of dogs at the local shelter looking for homes....it seems that once a dog has been in the media and it has a well known sad story behind it...every one wants it! It is sad for the poor dog that the women chose to have it put to sleep instead of trying to place it in another home...that is sick...some people are so vain they really beleive their dog would die of lonliness without them...so instead of rehoming they choose to euthanize...very sad, and very conceited. Most dogs just want love and structure in their life... kendalyn, very good post...I see more people ruining their dogs due to spoiling them and giving them no structure...no structure is confusing for a dog...but, there are alot of people out there which allow their dogs to do rule the rooost and do all the things that drive the owners nuts, they are afraid to stop them as they feel the dog won't "like" them any more...finally it gets so out of control....a dog with no guidance will soon take over and then problems become over abundant...finally the owners get fed up and decide the dog is a "problem" and have it put to sleep! sad, but happens too often. At the Vet clinic I work at it is our policy to not euthanize a healthy animal...if the dog had behavior problems we have an animal behaviorist who works for us work with the people...if the dog has already bitten some one...there is nothing we can do at that point, if the owners request a dog which has bitten to be put down we have to....even if it is an obvious behavior problem which can be traced to the owner.

[quote]My dad thinks that the only way to get rid of his agression is to either beat him or scare him and i got into an argument with my dad the other day about this.[/quote] I'm wondering if Zebra's behavior is more offensive than aggressive...basically I'll get you before you get me...physical discipline by your father can make some dogs very fearful, and other dogs will just get mean...I have seen some dogs which have been beaten, when you go into their cage and raise your hand some will cower in the corner and some will lunge for you. Also where you are the only one who practices any training methods with Zebra this can become confusing....every one with in a house hold should be consistant with Zebra in the training...for example in my house hold all of my dogs have the nothing is free policy...every one in the house hold practices this....even when letting my dogs out the door they are made to sit then let out....dinner, I encourage every one in the house to feed the dogs, they all have to sit before being served dinner. I think these simple little rules in life really helped my aggressive Rottweiler (when I first got her she was lunging for me and on several occasions jumped me and tore my jacket apart! :o ) instead of having her put down I worked with her....she is now the sweetest most lovable dog I could ever have hoped for....I also found that massage and belly rubs really helped calm her down. Any dog I have met really calms down with a good belly rub, and it allows you to become closer to your dog and form more of a bond... ...Any how, when I attended the dog aggression seminar here are a few books they recommended. Any dog I have met really calms down with a good belly rub, and it allows you to become closer to your dog and form more of a bond... The Culture Clash - Jean Donaldson Exel-erated Learning - Dr. Pam Reid PhD Calming Signals - Turid Ruugas Dog behavior - Dr. Ian Dunbar PhD, DVM The Healing Touch - Dr. Michael Fox DVM The Dogs Mind - Dr. Bruce Fogel DVM Bach Flower Remedies for Animals - Helen Graham & Gregory Vlamis

A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters her world. Just as with jumping, biting between littermates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their mouth with all those teeth. Unfortunately, this often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home. All the people, including the children, are brought into the game. Puppies have very sharp teeth, and a bite or nip can hurt and be terrifying to small children. There are several methods that are used to eliminate this behavior. Startle response and redirection: Patricia McConnell, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist and adjunct professor at the University of Wisconsin, suggests a method which startles the biting puppy. Just as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched and loud 'AWRP' sound. This would be the same sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. The sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, you will be surprised at how instantly the pup removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy, such as a ball, the puppy can chew on. This redirects the puppy's biting behavior to the ball. This way the puppy learns it is no fun at all biting you, but chewing on the toy is. You may need to do this multiple times if the puppy gets excited in play. If the 'AWRPs' make the puppy more excited, try another approach. Stop the action Dr. McConnell also suggests that, in some cases, just immediately (and dramatically) leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times, the puppy will learn that every time she bites she loses her playmate, and that is no fun at all. No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy instead of using toys may encourage the puppy to bite.

I would ask the breeder for a list of previous customer's who have purchased puppies in the past. I would then proceed to call them and ask what they thought of this deal. I know alot of breeders and alot of them have waiting lists for their pups...some take deposits. They also gaurantee that if the pup has a genetic disease the money is completely refunded or with the option of obtaining another pup from a future litter. I would also contact the local breeder consultant and ask about this breeders history etc., you can also ask Vet's, they usually know the local breeders. If you feel hesitant about it, don't do it...keep looking for another breeder with a deal you feel comfortable with.

For one thing if I came across a stray dog which was injured and had pups....I would expect the dog to be aggressive. Most dogs when they are injured are aggresssive due to the pain, this is the only way they know how to keep some thing away which may hurt it further...they have no way of knowing that you may have good intentions....where they dog cannot run it has to fight to protect itself and the pups. I have helped many of my breeder friends with litters of pups...the bitch's are always just a little bit wary of me...and I had a GSD lunge at me once for coming to close to her pups...I was looking after her and had to devise all kinds of sneaky ways to check on the pups and get her out for tolit duties. :lol: I also live in an area where dogs are dumped quite often...so we have quite a few strays...when a dog has been on the run for awhile with little or no human contact, they are not going to run up to you and want attention like a regular pet dog. For instance in society's where dogs are scavengers and do not belong to any humans....alot of little villages in Africa...the dogs act like pigeons...they depend on humans to survive eating the wastes left over by the humans, and they live within the villages sleeping in back yards etc. but, no human can get near these dogs...they stay just far enough away from humans as to avoid contact, if they are cornered they can become very vicious. A dog which is exposed to some thing it is not familiar with will react...some in different ways than others...dogs are great hazard avoiders.

[quote]that dog lived on discarded meat and left overs and the carcasses of the chickens and pigs they slaughtered. [/quote]. I meant to say left overs of the chickens and pigs they slaughtered...they gave the dogs the chicken necks and innards.

For those that are wary or against the BARF diet I am curious as to what you consider poses the greatest threat to your dog. I am not against the raw diet, but, I wanted to answer the questions any way! :lol: A - the feeding of bones: [color=red]I feed all my dogs raw bones, I have owned dogs for about 40 years now and this is some thing we have always done, and my mother before me has done and her mother before her...all the dogs have eaten raw bones...it has never bothered our dogs. All of my dogs have lived long lives and have never had splintered bones in their systems...even my mother when she was a little girl growing up in the 1920's their dogs lived well into their late teens...they had a collie mix which lived to be 19...that dog lived on discarded meat and left overs and the carcasses of the chickens and pigs they slaughtered. Working at a Vet clinic I see more dogs suffering from blockages from raw hide bones, rocks, socks, under wear, peices of plastic, nylons I could go on...some dogs do not have a clue about chewing any thing properly...and these dogs should be supervised while chewing on any thing[/color]. :lol: B - salmonella etc from the feeding of raw meat: [color=blue]This does not bother me as salmonella is found on many surfaces that your pet comes into contact with often, salmonella has even been found in samples of commercial pet foods and treats..Bacteria is not a problem for a pet with a healthy immune system. This is my concept, although others may not agree. [/color] C - the dog getting sick from missing some major nutritional component in their diet: [color=green]Heck, I don't think I eat a balanced meal every day...I am not suffering and I feel healthy...I really don't think dogs are going to suffer if they do not receive the exact ratios of proteins, carbs etc each and every day...I can just see the day I start doing this myself...lets see for breakfast I require 2 portions of protein and 1 carb... :lol: unrealistic and just hype from dog food manufactures. What did we do before dog kibble? I'll ask my mom...she had dogs when she was young and they did not recieve vet care etc. and they did not have kibble...as I mentioned before their dogs lived to be a ripe old age...[/color] I like to feed a raw diet, and I like the convenience of kibble & canned...I usually switch between the 2 of them with my dogs...I perfer to feed only small amounts of dry kibble and perfer to feed mainly canned dog food as I am sure it contains more meat and I think canned is much healthier. I have nothing against either choice of diet...research should be made either way...if you are feeding kibble make an informed decision by really studying what is in the food...be it added sugar, or salt and or BHA/BHT...not all kibble is good for your dog...as we know this on dogomania! :lol: if your choice is raw, do your research as well....are you feeding organic meats and produce...do you know what your dogs meat did last summer??? was it out to pasture or was it in a small little corral getting major doses of antibiotics and hormones??? was your chicken free range or stuffed in a small cubicle getting pumped full of antibiotics etc. at least with alot of good quality dog food they will gaurantee that the produce and meat used is organic...to me this is very important. I also think that raw/ or home cooked diets makes sense as they are not commercialized by a big dog food corporation. Most times at the Vet clinic I work at; the Vets advise their clients with dogs with health problems to feed home cooked meals....they do not suggest raw.

That is great Shara! I have 5 dogs, 4 of them straight from a kennel unsocialized...food to them is their life...and my Rottie, she is very dominant. I have always had the nothing is free in life policy in my house. My dogs all sit while I am preparing their meals, I feed them all at the same time in the kitchen, never in the same order...some times my older female Newf gets her food first, or one of my intact male dogs...or my Rottie...I have been very successful at keeping peace in my house hold. The one thing I find the funniest is my Newf's gobble their food down very quickly...my dominant Rottie will wait until they are finished...then she will eat her food very slowly in front of them....chewing each morsal as if it were the best food that ever landed in her bowl. I started doing this with my dogs as well, when I am eating a bagel or some other food item I some times share with my dogs...I eat very slowly in front of them and give them each a little peice...they all sit in front of me just staring and drooling! :lol: I can also give all 5 of my dogs femur bones in the evening to occupy them while I am taking it easy...they all will chew the bones side by side with no squabbles, my young female Newf can even take bones away from my Rottie with no problems..them they play with the bones..very cute. I always made sure that food was not a big deal, I carry treats in my pockets as well...I think my dogs regard me as we regard a candy machine...

What I have done with dogs which pull on lead...I stop, and cross my arms until my dog settles down...then off we go...of course this may be difficult for you where your dog is so large. What I have done also is taught my dogs to sit, this comes in handy when they are getting too exicted...I make them sit down and settle...once settled then we carry on with our walk. I'm sure some one else will have a much better suggestion than this... :lol: I rarely ever have my dogs on lead...I live way out in the boonies with plenty of land to hike. Keep up with the obedience classes, rome wasn't built in a day. Be consistant with your training, keep training sessions short, do not over reward, this tends to get an extremely hyper dog too hyper, do not use punishment. As for the "nothing is free" policy, sounds as though you are on the right track there...make sure you have your dog say please for any thing good thing to happen, sit for his dinner, sit for his leash to go for a walk, have him sit before letting him out the door, have him sit to be petted or get a cookie for coming back inside. I want to point out that you are dealing with an adolescent dog, they can really wear on your nerves, they always seem to be testing you. Increase excercise as pei obssessed suggested. When playing fetch be sure you teach your dog "off" or some people teach "drop it" by doing this you are making your dog release the object in its mouth...I taught my dogs the command "off" to teach this I held a treat in the palm of my hand and had my dogs sit in front of me...I held out my hand palm open and when my dog went to grab for the treat I told them "off" and closed my fist...this takes time and keep at it in one sitting until he finally looks away from the treat...then tell him "take it" after he has looked away...I use this command all the time....playing tug of war if my dog seems to be winning I tell her "off" , she drops it...and just to show I am not a meany I offer it back to her by saying "take it"...but the game is over and I walk away...I have taught her that this object actually belongs to me and I control every thing that she wants...if I want her to have it I will let her have it on my terms. This comes in handy for an overly excitable dog which gets caught up in play and grabs you...the game ends and you walk away...or when my Rottie was getting mouthy I told her "off" meaning get your teeth off my arm, that is off limits!!!! :lol: Increase socialization time; have times when you quiety pat and massage your dog...I have found that by rubbing your dogs belly, massaging legs, rubbing the dogs forehead etc. this quality social time between you and your dog can have a big impact on your bonding...my Rottie loves belly rubs so much she will fall in front of any one and roll on her back for a good belly rub...this is great because your dog is in a very submissive position...but, he is getting such a wonderful reward for it...what does a dog love more than a belly rub...touch thereapy is a wonderful tool. Continue with your obedience classes and discuss with your trainer about perhaps going on to agility training....keeping a dogs mind occupied and busy is just as important as occupying his body. You may also want to get your dog checked over by a Vet, I have seen some very aggressive behavior come from dogs with hip dysplasia...they are very sensitive about their hips and can get very aggressive with hyper dogs or the possibility of some one bumping into them. Thyroid dysfunction is related also to various behavior problems and inadequate nutrition is also related to behavior problems ...it has been suggested that a diet high in protein, or containing elements to which a dog is allergic, may also contribute to hyperactive behavior.....and food additives and colorants play in hyperactive behavior. Good luck to you, don't give up....adolescent dogs were put on earth to test peoples patience! :lol:

I'm pretty sure it would stop the heat cycle...if the dog is sterile there is not need to go through estrus...no eggs would be produced. It certainly is a good question and some thing to look into.

Yes it certainly is true...dogs have anal glands and they contain a stinky substance...if a dog gets scared they can blow their glands...I have had this happen to me on more than one occasion! :roll: working at a Vet clinic and helping to hold the back of the dog...the dog got really frightened and blew its glands in my face...very difficult to get off...you can smell like fish for the rest of the day....try explaining that to customers! Dogs also release some of this substance each time they have a bowel movement...its their own personal scent which other dogs love to smell.

[quote]According to some researchers, yes. Dr. Richard Fayrer-Hosken at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine has developed Spay-Safe, an injectable contraceptive which is derived from a protein found in pig ovaries. He found that three injections of this protein would permanently sterilize a female dog. There are no known side effects. The product is now undergoing evaluation by the FDA. Once approved, it will be marketed. Dr. Fayrer-Hosken is now working on developing the proper dosage for cats. Comments from our Veterinary Staff: This could be a revolutionary way to help solve the pet overpopulation problem. For dogs who have increased risks associated with anesthesia, it would be an excellent alternative. We are unsure of the cost of the vaccine, but in most cases, it would probably be far less than the cost of a spay. One thing we would like to know before solidly endorsing such a product is how many, if any, of these dogs spayed by vaccination go on to develop diseases of their still-present reproductive tracts (e.g., cancer). Such cancers are virtually eliminated through spaying[/quote] What I am wondering is if this will work on humans...there are a few I really believe should not reproduce...can you imagine...if you were able to sidle up to them in a bar and jab them 3 times...can you imagine the wonderful effects on man kind??? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Just joking of course...but, this did go through my mind...briefly... :roll:

HazelNutMeg, what a wonderful poem! you have described all of our clientel at the grooming facility I work at. .

The Bedlington Terrier is orginally a cross breed of the Dandie Dinmont Terrier, the Otterhound and the Whippet...the only ones I have touched have been at the grooming shop...and they seem to have more of a Whippet facial structure with just a slight stop. I just want to point out that within every breed people have different ideals of what the facial stucture should be...for instance Newfoundland dogs...most of the Newfoundlands I have owned have had big pumpkin heads with VERY defined stops and big flews...they win in the show rings big time...alot of other breeders tend to go for smaller heads with a smaller stop...completely different head types...if I had 20 Newfoundland dogs lined up you would probably find about 10 different head types....