imported_Cassie

MajiesMom, thats pretty cool about your dad winning that prize. :wink: I don't get animal planet either...I just happened to be leafing through one of my Dogs in Canada magazines...in the breed directory they have all kinds of little dog facts... [quote]That's cool! Aww why was the Lab called the Lesser Newfoundland[/quote] I suppose where both breeds orginated in Newfoundland, Canada...they called the bigger dog the greater and the smaller the lesser. :lol: have you ever met a person from Newfoundland, Canada??? they are a breed all of their own...very unusual people. I don't live very far from Newfoundland and I have been there a few times...the people are very laid back and talk very differently... :lol: when you take the ferry over to Newfoundland most times you get screeched in, this is where you have to have a drink of their very disgusting hard liquor and then you have to kiss a cod...they are very different! :lol: In the case of the Lab...with the Lab the other name St. John's dog...St. John's is a city in Newfoundland...I guess they thought the region of Labrador, Newfoundland was a better name. :wink:

I did not know this...others may...but, I thought I would share it any way... :fadein: Did you know? In 1941, a Collie named "Pal" was sold by his owner because he was too active. The dog's new owner took him to a movie audition and Pal, who had been bought for $5.00, became the start of "Lassie Come Home". He acquired a huge salary, his own apartment and a contract that limited his work to seven hours a day with short weeks. :wink: I'll bet "Pal's" previous owners were kicking them selves! :lol: I found this to be quite interesting as well....the Newfoundland dog was orginally called the "Greater Newfoundland" and the Labrador Retriever was formely called the "Lesser Newfoundland" the Labrador had also been called the "St. John's Dog" as well.

Does this behavior happen only when he is around the other dogs?? if so this is pretty normal. Each one of my dogs had to be taught proper manners..when you have 6 dogs they have to learn manners! Felix may also sense the aniexty you are experiencing with moving as well. I have found with dogs that are snappy when it comes to food its best to always use the nothing is free policy...I use this with all of my dogs, and believe me when I first took in each one of my dogs they all were snappy when it came to getting treats...almost a competition for food (my dogs where all adolescents when I adopted them) Felix has to realize that grabbing for a treat is not going to get the treat....I would also teach Felix "off" and "take it" and sit before getting a treat...you can also teach your dog "gentle" which will teach him to relax his jaw mucles when he sees food. I have had many times when I first adopted my new dogs when I had been walking along with my hands down by my side and the dogs have "thought" there may be a treat lurking in my hand :lol: and they have grabbed for my hands....that was before I taught them manners! :wink: Not only does the nothing in free policy help your dog gain confidence....it also teaches him that he must do some thing before getting a treat. A dog which is sitting down waiting for you to give him a treat is less likely to try to grab it from you or steal it. Some times when our dogs are around a few other dogs they can loose all manners and go into competition mode...survival of the fittest :lol:

I'm so glad things are back on track with Buck...we have all gone through times when our dogs have reacted in very strange ways... :lol: and I know how dissappointing it can be and how you can feel your best friend just let you down...especially the only friend any one can have that has unconditional love. But, our dogs and other pets can have a very difficult time reading our body language and tone of voice...and any animal backed into a corner...or crate...will become defensive IF it feels it is being threatened...the will to survive is very powerful...the most difficult part is we become so in tune with our dogs that we start to feel as though they KNOW exactly what we are saying at all times...just chalk this up to experience...never get mad at Buck AFTER he has done some thing wrong...and believe me, no dog would thing a good meal of pork chops is wrong :lol: A trip to the vet is a very good idea...it will put your mind at ease to insure that there is nothing else going on with Buck. Good luck to you & Buck.

Puppies chew on whatever they can get their mouths on for any number of reasons: they are bored, they have a lot of energy, they are teething which is probably what Amaya's going through right now... most puppies are undergoing some form of continued teething, either erupting or replacing baby teeth until about 9 months of age, some dogs/pups chew as they are just curious. Dogs learn through their mouths. It is their tool; it is how they receive a great deal of information. They are naturally inclined to use their mouths whenever they can. To prevent problem chewing and to direct your pup's natural inclination to chew toward appropriate objects, follow these simple guidelines: Puppy-proof the confined area. If possible, remove all items your puppy can chew on, including socks, shoes, furniture, plants, etc., from any area in which you confine your puppy. Tape over electrical outlets and make sure electrical cords are out of reach. Confine your pup in a crate, cage, or puppy-proofed area when you are away. Because puppies learn with their mouths, giving your teething puppy free rein in the house is asking for trouble. Keep him confined. Closely supervise Amaya. Not unlike caring for a toddler, you should always be aware of where your uncrated pup is and what he is doing. Amaya already has plenty of chew toys...there are also many safe, long lasting chew toys that are made for teething pups...you can even take a nylon rope toy and dip it in water then freeze it, this will give Amaya's mouth some comfort... :wink: The items you choose for Amaya to chew on should not be similar to articles you do not want your puppy to chew. Your puppy can not tell the difference between an old teddy bear and a brand new one. Make departures low key to avoid causing separation anxiety, which is often expressed through nonstop barking, whining, or destructive chewing. Before you leave, add your scent to your dog's toy. Rub the bone between your hands and give it to your pup as you leave. Give your puppy plenty of exercise to relieve boredom and burn off energy - two significant factors contributing to destructive chewing. If you catch Amaya in the act of chewing anything but his chew toy, remove the object and replace it with an acceptable chew toy. If your pup then chews on the toy, praise him. You always want to reinforce desired behavior with praise. If possible, treat the 'inappropriate object' with a product designed to deter chewing, such as Bitter Apple. Teach your pup to ignore non-toy objects if he consistently chews the wrong things. Place tempting objects on the floor along with your pup's chew toy and pretend not to pay any attention to him. If (and usually when) he starts to put his mouth over one of the forbidden objects, correct with a firm 'No!' and point out his bone. Once he learns he can only have the toy when you are in the room, it is time to leave the room for short intervals. If he chews on forbidden objects after you leave the room, your quick return will catch him in the act - the only time when corrective action should be taken. Again, give him the toy, and praise if it is accepted. If he is chewing forbidden objects but you cannot catch him, he should be crated when unsupervised until he learns what is and is not acceptable to chew on. As for the house training...you will have to start over again from square one... :-? We have lots of clients with simular relapses in house breaking with their pups...take Amaya out to do his business about 30 - 40 minutes after each meal...of course use excessive praise as drjeffrock mentioned already...never scold Amaya for soiling in the house unless you catch him...and then the only scolding that should be done is a stern "NO" then take him out side...if he finishes his business out side praise him for doing this. I find walks around the neighborhood to be a wonderful way to get a dog to releive himself...my dogs will hold them selves for thier morning, noon and evening walk...my Rottie will not even pee in my yard unless I give her the command to go...I use "go pee pee" verbal commands are very useful with house training...when indoors saying "Amaya needs to go outside?" take him out and say what ever command you use...like "go pee pee" then once he has gone go back in at once...never use the house training commands before going for a walk etc. as this will just confuse your pup. Crate training is a perfect way to train Amaya over again....take him out before putting him in the crate, and take him outside as soon as you take him out of the crate....get a good schedule going...for myself I take my dogs out at 6:00 am, 12:00 noon, 6:00 pm then once more before going to bed around 10:00 pm. My dogs are very good with this schedule. DeafAussieLover also has some wonderful advice...it really makes sense about having too many toys.

I would say pork chops would be very hard for any one including myself not to steal off the counter... :wink: The smell of pork chops would drive any dog to steal...geez, my Newf Tori just figured out how to open the door to my food closet and ate a whole bag of dog food...I had to stay home with her all day to be sure she didn't bloat. [quote]I came back and the pork chops were gone. I was shocked because Buck has NEVER been a counter surfer.[/quote] Dogs will be dogs, and even if they havent stolen any thing from the counter before there is always going to be a chance it will happen. Our dogs are prone to error, just as we humans are...and when you think about it...we humans do more dumb things than our dogs do! :lol: and we have the ability to rationalize and think things through first. :roll: [quote]In fact I often sit on the floor when I eat dinner and I can leave the plate on the carpet, go get something and the plate will not have been touched while I was gone. He has always just been exceptionally good about not stealing food.[/quote] I probably will not word this properly...but, Buck sees you with the food and knows it belongs to his master...he expects he will get a little of the left overs. [quote]So I turned around and looked at him and just said "What happened to the pork chops?" My tone had changed but it wasn't really stern or angry sounding. He turned and slunk off to his crate right after I said it. So I stood in the kitchen for a while and thought about what happened. After about 5 minutes I walked over to his crate and kneeled down in front of it. Buck immediately started growling at me, and I knew he meant it. I just sat there for a minute stunned and then I said really stern "Buck, Quit it!" And he slid down on his belly and started wagging his tail. I walked away and he came out a few minutes later looking very unsure about what he should do. He kind of tiptoed past me and didn't want to come into the kitchen. He was laying down in the living room and I sat down next to him and he crawled toward me wagging his tail. I pet him and was friendly toward him and since then everything has been fine.[/quote] Even if your tone of voice only slightly changed....our dogs also pick up on body language. Buck could tell you were upset about some thing...he probably was not associating it with the pork chops that he stole...a dogs gotta eat, its a natual thing...Buck was probably a little confused and found you to be unpredictable at that moment and went to his crate to get away...the crate would be bucks personal space and with you being in an unpredictable mood Buck wanted to get away from you and was being defensive. I have owned dogs which have done this...even coming home after a bad day at work the dogs pick up on your body language and your tone of voice and they can become either very submissive (mistaken for the dog understanding you had a bad day and is there to console you... :lol: ) or the dog just wants to get out of your way as you seem unpredictable...dogs don't understand bad moods etc. What Buck would have understood would have been...he takes the pork chops, you catch him in the act...you tell him in a loud voice "NO" and then take them from him...this a dog can understand....but, once they have already taken the pork chops, eaten them and they are doing some thing entirely different...Buck wasnt thinking about the pork chops any longer...dogs do not have day dreams of great meals...the purpose of eating was over...its a normal survival act for all species... The only thing I would do in this situation is chalk it up to experience and try to get Buck used to you patting him in his crate. You could also contact a behaviorist just ensure it is not the beginning of a serious behavior problem...I can only guess what happened, a behaviorist can actually see what is happening :wink: ....you are not alone...I have had this happen to me, and its happened to tons of other dog owners... :lol: When Buck came out wagging his tail perhaps summing up your current mood and perhaps a little frightened of what had just happened. Just remember one golden rule...if you don't catch you dog in the act of doing some thing wrong...don't get mad or upset at the dog...they do not remember things that happened 30 seconds ago...they only know that they are being punished for what ever they are doing wrong at that percise moment. One of my Newf's Cassie is very sensitive....some what like your Buck...I can't even disipline the other dogs in front of her...she gets very upset and goes to hide in my bedroom. Once my dogs have done some thing like this...guarding their personal space...I really start back on the nothing is free in life policy...just to reinforce good behavior...I use this method with all my dogs daily...it goes on for the life of the dog.

Good for you! :wink: Doesnt it feel great when all that hard work finally pays off... :lol:

One last thing... :oops: You mentioned your pug can be destructive and has a tendancy to become anxious...exercise can really help to over come anxiety, boredom and stress...a tired dog is a good dog. :lol: There is also an item that can be purchased called a comfort zone which is a plug in unit and diffuses a substance purported to contain a pheromone similar to that released by nursing female dogs...daily exposure to the pheromone is supposed to relieve dogs stress and stop their destructive and or disruptive stress related behavior...I have also read that this can actually help "some" dogs...but there are a few dogs that it can create "more" problems with ...so it depends on your dog if it is going to work. Courtnek will probably have some good suggestions for you as she has been going through some confidence building exercises with her new foxhound "laurel". Also consult a positive trainer for suggestions on developing a behavior modification and management program for your dog. Good luck, and believe me...none of the training suggestions are going to work over night... :wink: I have adopted my last 8 Newfoundland dogs from kennels...none of them had EVER lived in a house before I took them in...I never had a puppy always adolescent dogs (over 1 year) or adults...it took quite a while to train them to go out side...and for some of them which were fearful or anxious...it took a while to build their confidence...all the efforts paid off big time and I never regretted taking any of these dogs (of course it was a different story while I was going through all the problems! :lol: :lol: ) give your newest member time and patience and understanding...take time for walks and games and belly rubs... :wink: Good luck and you will get through this. honest.

[quote]When he goes in the house-clean with enzyme cleaner (which I have) and don't scold him unless I have caught him in the act. Now if I catch him in the act I calmly and firmly scold him-what next? Do I take him outside? [/quote] Exactly If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it! if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it. Discipline will not help because unless you catch your dog in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your dog has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. When you actually catch him in the act of urinating or defecating. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick him up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry him outside. It will help to push his tail down while you are carrying him as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more....I don't know if you can do this with a pug tail... :lol: Your pug is going to be excited when you get him outside, but stay there with him for a while and if he finishes the job, reward him with simple praise like "Good Dog." In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold, spank or scare the heck out of a dog for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going to go backwards. With housebreaking this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Punishment rarely speeds up housebreaking. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom. [quote]Also the crate is his size, he can stand up and turn around but if he were to pee he would have to lay in it--should I have him in something a little bigger?[/quote] Keep the crate you currently have, it sounds to be the perfect size. Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The Dog will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a housebreaking method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life. The last thing you do before you put your pug in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in your pug grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time. Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the dog something very important. The dog learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the dog feels like he needs to relieve himself, he learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on. When he is taken outside, watch him closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method. Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. If you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Once outside, try to encourage your pup to get on with the act :lol: . Yoy can use a verbal command as well...with my dogs I kinda use a sing song voice and say "pee, pee?" or "poo, poo" I know I sound like an idiot...but, its has saved me many cold nights of standing and waiting for them to go.. :oops: As soon as he eliminates, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If you are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk do not use this word even if you know they will eliminate while you are outside The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that most dogs & puppies need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns. Also give your pug plenty of time to do his business out doors...my dogs take quite awhile to figure out where the "perfect" spot is..unless I give them a verbal command. I also do not bring them inside until they have done number 1 & number 2...usually for #2 its going to be about 30 minutes after they finished eating...I take my dogs for a walk about 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours after their meals..a walk helps get things moving through the digestive system..I wait a little longer than most as my dogs are big chested dogs and are prone to bloat....with your pup I would give him about 30-40 minutes after a meal and take him for a little walk to get every thing out of his system... :wink: One last thing as I mentioned before my dogs will pee about 15 times on a walk and at least 10 different times in my yard...they will look around and mark all kinds of different areas...a walk is a good way to encourage your dog to "save" his bladder and bowel movements for this time...dogs love to mark while out on a walk so the other dogs can smell it..and they love to leave a nice poop for the other dogs to smell... :oops: When in the house watch for signs of smelling around, doing little circles or half turns etc. or if your pug goes to the door as you said he did...take him out...until he is completely 100% house trained heed all the sutle signs... :wink: [quote]At night his crate has to be put in a room alone otherwise he whines all night because he wants out to be with us. That is my goal--for him to be able to be out of the crate and sleep with me at night. When I say destructive it's things like rolling the chairs over to the kitchen counters to get whatever is up there that he wants, if there is nothing to get into he finds something [/quote] :o what a little devil... :evil: :lol: there are different calming herbs you can give to your pug which will help him relax when in the crate...I think courtnek is currently using "Rescue Remedy" for one of her dogs..it takes about 3 hours to kick in...also make sure he has toys in his crate to play with.

As long as the books do not offer any negative/harsh training ideas then they should be fine. The one thing I would like to say...if you cannot attend an obedience class then try to at least make time to socialize your dogs as much as possible....socialization is the most important thing you can do for your dogs as well as positive training. I like using the nothing is free in life for basic house manners, and positive training for house training and basic commands. It's great when you have a dog which enjoys the training process rather than a dog which is forced into training...

I find the best training is joining an obedience class...not only do they show you how to train YOUR dog...but, your dog is also getting socialized as well. Plus with all the other distractions in the class your dog will learn to pay attention to you...I have always enjoyed obedience classes and have made plenty of friends...and when you have an experienced teacher helping you they can help you with your individual dog...not all dogs learn by the same techniques.

I find flax seed oil so expensive...I bought myself a coffe grinder and purchase the organic flax seeds and grind them myself and put it in my dogs food. :wink: Hemp oil is supposed to be excellent as well....it has a wonderful ratio of omega 3,6 and 9 fatty acids. I have hemp ceral for breakfast and I get hemp oil for my dogs...only occasionally as I find this to be expensive as well. I also add canned sardines packed in water to my dogs food a couple of times a week...and canned wild alaskan salmon to their food...(I stay away from farmed salmon...very evil stuff!) :evil: Also don't bathe your dog too much in the winter as this can zap the natural oils out of your dogs skin...even a medicated shampoo. And make sure when you do bathe your dog to get all the shampoo out...rinse until the water runs clear...if shampoo is left in by mistake (which can happen very easily) the dog will get a flakey skin...it can also lead to skin problems..even if you use the best quality dog shampoo in the world...

Good for Zebra..I am happy he is doing so well.

[quote]I have a pug that is a little over a year old. We have had him for about 8 months now, when he was 3-4 months he wasn't socialized like he needed to be so he is a very emotionally needy dog. We have 2 other dogs and a cat and he gets along with all of them. The problem I'm having is he still urinates in the house. He knows what "outside" is and when taken outside he will pee, but you have to make him go 3-4 times because he is so excited that we are home that he doesn't want to take the time to empty his bladder (I think) but then when he comes in he will hike his leg in the house unless he is watched constantly. [/quote] First off, if get your little boy neutered...do so right away. Males love to mark...an intact male can be very dirty. I own 2 intact males currently and it took me awhile to convince them to do ALL thier peeing out side. I would also start taking your dogs for longer walks around the neighborhood...most dogs love to hold thier bladder so they can mark many times throughout a walk...my dogs will pee at least 15 times on a normal walk....this is also a wonderful opportunity to socialize your pug. I would also get a really good enzyme cleaner to clean up all the areas your pug has urinated...don't just mask the smell with a cleaner...get a good quality enzyme cleaner which actually absorbs the scent...you can get a product such as this at most Vet clinics. I would also take the dog in for a complete physical and urinalysis...your pug could be suffering from a UTI...this can cause the dog to have the need to urinate quite frequently...get the dog looked over just to rule out any health problems. But, it is most likely due to the fact that your pug is not neutered that he is doing this...and believe me it can be a nightmare! [quote]He has to sleep in his crate at night and stay in it during the day while we are gone because he is so destructive but we keep him out with us when we are home. Any suggestions? [/quote] It's a good idea to have your dog crate trained...do you have some really great items in the crate to keep him occupied...and when you say your dog is destructive...perhaps he is suffering from seperation aniexity...if so, that is a whole different problem...you might want to give him some natural calmers such as rescue remedy to help him calm down when you have to leave...there is a whole different approach to behavior issues if it is seperation aniexty. [quote]When he pees in the house I give him "the look" and say did you pee in mommy's house? He hangs his head and puts his ears down so I know he knows it's wrong but how can I get him to stop. Also he hasn't been fixed yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated...thanks![/quote] First off...I don't think your pug KNOWS he did something wrong...he is more than likely responding to your "look" and your "behavior" and just feels as though you are mad at him for what ever he is doing that moment...for example, a lot of times when dogs have urinated in the house while the owner is in another room, or they are out of the home...when the owner comes back and sees the mistake...that mistake is out of the dogs mind...its a natural bodily function to urinate...so when the owner gets mad...the dog is not thinking about 30 seconds ago when it urinated...it's thinking how unpredictable its owner is and how they seem to get mad when they first come home, or when the dog is excited to see them...this can cause a dog to become very very confused and add to the behavior problems already established as the dog will get anxious etc. as it cannot predict your actions and why you are mad for no reason at all....DO NOT PUNISH A DOG UNLESS YOU CATCH THEM IN THE ACT...many people end up confusing thier dogs so much and house training can become a behavior problem... - get your dog neutered. - take your dog for walks so he can mark throughout the neigborhood. - set your dog up for success, praise when he does some thing right.. - do not punish your dog or expect the dog to know what you are mad about if you do not catch them in the act. - get a really good enzyme cleaner. Good luck to you.

Some dogs are seasonal shedders, some are year long shedders...alot of breeds such as Lab's, Rottweilers and I would assume APBT's etc. are year round shedders. Anxiety can cause a dog to blow its coat more than usual, for example a trip to the vet's office can cause a dog to blow its coat while in the office...I am surprised my Rottie has any coat left when we leave the Vet clinic :lol: Also at home she sheds daily, I am constantly sweeping up after her...and my Newf's. One more thing that can cause excess shedding other than stress and the normal growth rate of the coat is dry air, artificial heat and more importantly indoor lights, tend to make a dogs coat shed in a more or less continuous fashion...I don't know what your weather is in your area of the world..but, here in Canada during the winter with the temp's turned up in the house....the dry air can really zap most of the moisture out of the coat and cause excess shedding...the best thing you can do in this situation is to add more omega 3 fatty acids to your dogs diet...I really like to add canned sardines (packed in water) to my dogs food a couple of times a week...and some times I add canned wild alaskan Salmon to thier food. You can also add ground flax seeds or flax seed oil...or hemp oil....or you can buy supplements. You can also keep the coat brushed to get the dead hairs out before they fall on the floor.

[quote]it seems to be a hound thing..they get very upset when corrected harshly. but take FULL advantage of soft hearts when not...I think they are smarter then we give them credit for... [/quote] Hound thing???? :roll: Newfoundlands are like that too...

One last little thing I forgot to go over with you... :oops: Adolescence (which at one year of age your dog is going through currently ) is a very difficult stage to go though...I have just gone through adolescence with my last 4 dogs and 2 of them are still in the adolescent stage!!! they will test you to see what they can get away with...I used the "nothing is free policy " on all of my dogs when I took them in...be consistant. Leadership is necessary for either "fearful" dog or "assertive dog"... - watch your tone of voice, avoid coxing or whining.

I've been through the food aggression with alot of my dogs...I found it quite common place with alot of my kennel dogs. Not all of my dogs which showed possesion guarding were dominant...this behavior can happen with any breed of dog, or mongrel on any level of social standing. First, I would use the "nothing is free" in life policy...control as many of your dog's valuable resources as possible. Ask your dog to say "please" by offering an appropriate behavior in order to earn a resource...food, treats, toys, a trip outside, or a chance to sit with you. Teach your dog sit to say "please" ... First to reduce her food related aggression, feed her from a bowl and give her one kibble at a time. If she growls, take the bowl away and wait 5 minutes before offering another kibble. She will soon learn that growling leads to the disappearance of her food...not the disappearance of you. After you have accomplished this approach then on a daily basis for each meal; after preparing your dog's food (make sure she sees you making it) lift the bowl off the counter with her meal in it, and hold it at your chest. Wait for her to sit. If necessary, move the bowl over her head to lure the sit, or ask her to sit verbally. When she sits, tell her she's a good dog and lower the bowl on the floor without her moving. Then tell her "okay" and encourage her to eat....by doing this you are saying to your dog..."this food is really mine, because as leader all things belong to me, but because I'm nice I'm letting you have some of MY food." If your dog has an object in her mouth that you want to remove...at present until you teach her "drop it" and "take it"...if you want to take some thing from your dog, offer her some thing better in replace of the object you want. This is rewarding the dog for dropping the valued item...when she drops it for the better treat...tell her "good dog" and give her the treat. This is basically positive training...success builds confidence, removes confusion...our dog's need to be able to predict our behavior just as we like to be able to predict theirs. To teach "off" and "take it" have a tasty treat ready... when I first taught this to my Rottweiler I put the treat under my foot. I moved my foot to one side so my dog could see the treat...when she went to grab it I said "off" and covered it with my foot again...I kept repeating this exercise until she looked away the next time I lifted my foot from the treat...when she was looking the other way, I said her name then said "take it". I repeated this exercise over and over...it took me almost an hour to teach this to her in the beginning...but, it has been the best thing I could have taught her. When I want an item from her...at first I would say "off" she would drop it and I would give her some thing better for a reward. If it was a game I was playing with her such as fetch (this is probably a game a blood hound will not be interested in! :lol: ) but, I would have her bring the toy back to me...I would say "off" then the object would be thrown for her again. Don't confuse your dog by using harsh training methods...also find a good trainer in your area who teaches "positive training" methods. You may also want to discuss the food aggression with a trained animal behaviorist...the worst thing you can do at this time is confuse your dog and give it more of a reason to guard it's possessions...or worse still, by using harsh training methods you could inadvertently make your dog into a fear biter. And always be consistant with your training and make sure the whole family is using the same methods...and make sure you have professional help....perhaps talk with her breeder as well. Good luck to you... :wink:

[quote]It sends shivers up and down my spine when I hear people using "pinch collars"...most times the collars are used incorrectly even by some "experts"...[/quote] I meant to say e-collars! :oops: but, I also think that alot of harsh training methods are unnecessary for getting a good dog. A dog can learn to avoid doing certain bad things with harsh training...but, it only represses the behavior...it does nothing to show the dog appropriate behavior. I praise the good behavior and redirect the bad behavior into good behavior. I think people get a little caught up in the wrong actions for bad behavior...

It sends shivers up and down my spine when I hear people using "pinch collars"...most times the collars are used incorrectly even by some "experts"...the poor Newf. I feel so bad for it...I started reading the other posts...and I gave up after reading a few...the dog sounds very confused. My own male Newf Dilon was also "dominant" and I was advised he was "untrainable" and stubborn...he also guarded resources (living in a kennel made him very food aggressive)...I used the "nothing is free" policy...and I use only "positive training" for this dog and my 5 other dogs...he responds very well considering the breeder my breeder bought him off could not control him without the use of a prong collar! :o Dilon is now competing in obedience trials and I am currently working on getting my CD on him...all it took for him was positive training...nothing is free policy and teaching off and take it...my other dogs now can even take a bone out of him mouth and there is not one of my dogs which guards at meal time. Perhaps the dog needs a better home which can provide structure...some people end up confusing a dog so much...and confusion can cause many many behavior problems. Just my opinion...also with the growth rate of that poor pup I would have its hips checked for HD...a large breed which grows too quickly can be prone to joint problems which can cause pain...

With some dogs with erect ears they can move them around quite a bit. I have seen Shepherds with erect ears lay them flat against thier skulls when they are annoyed, frightened, cold etc. I have never seen them flop to the front though...unless the cartilage is not well developed. I do recall when I had my Husky/Shepherd/lab mix he always had one ear up and the other ear down and floppy like a lab...when he got really excited he could bring the floppy ear up to an erect position. My doberman was like this as well...she had her ears cropped...but, the crop didn't take to well as it was done too late...she kept her ears down at all times...but, when she got really excited or happy both her ears would go up. Were your dogs ears cropped???

[quote]when i got home my wife and my basset were sleeping (my wife on the bed and Lola in the carpet)... it was about 2:00 am and i was very tired and the only thing i wanted to do was rest, but it was impossible!... my wife talks in the sleep and Lola has the biggest snoar in the hole world... now it's funny, but at that time that was a torture![/quote] izzy, that is too funny!!! :lol: :lol: You'll have to get your self some industrial eye plugs!!!

Ya never know what the little devils are doing behind your back :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

That poor dog...bless your heart for trying to help the poor pup out. :angel: [quote]she is an outside dog only [/quote] First off, a dog cannot learn to be a good companion or house dog by being an outside dog only...and the excitment or fear of an unsocialized dog is quite normal. To fear going out side her yard is very common for dogs which are left kenneled or tied. Another thing, its wonderful of you to want to train the pup and take care of it...is there any way you can move the dog in with you??? if not, its going to be a dead end street...you will train the dog and the training will soon be forgotten by being left alone again and the dogs owners not being consistant with the training you teach...as for social manners, if I were left by myself for long periods of time and some one came to visit me...I would probably be so starved for attention I would jump all over that person as well, or I could be frightened or defensive, or perhaps a little aggressive...dogs are social animals and live in packs...being away from the family is very very hard on a dog...can you imagine how lonely it must be to sit out side just waiting for some one to come out to see you...how horrible. Another thing as well, a dog can get defensive or aggressive when it comes to "their area" . All I can say is this dog would probably have a better chance in a new home...I know that there are thousands of dogs and pups looking for a homes...and to return her to the shelter is a pity...but, is her quality of life good??? I don't know which is worse for a dog...being left alone...or going to the shelter and possibly finding a good home with people who will keep her indoors and train her. The older she gets and the more bad habits she forms the less the family is going to want to be with her... This is just my opinion...perhaps some one else on this board will give you better advice... :(

Good for you HF, I knew it would "happen" sooner or later. I have taken in soooooo many fearful dogs that this has become second hat to me! :wink: I have had dogs which have taken longer to bond with the others in my household...but, with patience and kindness...it always happens, some take a little longer than others. My Newf. Cassie was frigthened of every thing and every body...now I can't keep her away from guests and my other house mates. And my dogs all find their "favorites" some times when one person is trying especially hard to bond and they always have the "best" treats and take them for "special" walks...the dog really starts looking forward to that persons company. :wink: