imported_Cassie

I live in Canada and we have very cold winters....brrrrrr I currently own 4 Newfoundland dogs, 1 Rottweiler and 1 Dobie mix; for the Newf's I insure there is no excess fur around their pads to prevent ice balls from forming. For my Rottweiler and Dobie mix...I have never used bootie's for my dogs...they seem to adjust perfectly to the cold weather...actually last weekend I took all of my dogs for a walk along the ocean and my Rottie went into the freezing cold ocean for a swim...it did not bother her at all. My only concerns regarding winter with my dogs, is, I avoid salted roads...the salt can really cause alot of problems with a dogs pads. I make sure the fur betweent the pads is trimmed to prevent ice balls, of course I don't have to worry about this with my Rottie and Dobie. :lol: if my dogs ever happened to start holding their paws up I would then check for cracked or dry pads (the dry air in winter can contribute to dry pads)...I check for snow between the pads...in the winter I increase the amount of omega 3 fatty acids in my dogs diets by adding sardines and flax seeds to their food....this helps them with the dry air of winter. Of course you can try booties, but, if your dog has a chance to build up for winter time there should not be any problems...most dogs have an undercoat which keeps them warm...except of course breeds like Dobies etc. :fadein: As long as you do not take your dog out for extended time frames, and never leave a dog out side tied etc. in cold weather...short brisk walks a couple of times a day for the dog to releive itself is fine.

I live in Canada and I own a Rottweiler...so I must have a Canadian Rottweiler... :lol: :lol: Actually different breeders have different ideas of what a breed should look like...then you have "working" dogs and "show" dogs which can look very different. "working" breeds such as the german bred German Shepherds are bred to be more square etc. to make better working dogs...you would not find a police officer purchasing an angulated show Shepherd for police work...it would not be able to keep up with the work expected of it. The same goes for Rottweilers and other breeds...when "showing" they are bred mainly for conformation in the ring...in Canada and the States they do not have to be proven in their "field" of work. I beleive in England in germany you have to have a working title on your dog before you can compete in conformation classes. So here in Canada & States you have more show people looking for "pretty" dogs...not necessarily working dogs...I have 4 Newfoundland dogs...and although they will wade, they will not swim...they were orginally bred to be water dogs. My Newfoundland dogs look alot different than "working" newfoundland dogs...my dogs have a ton of coat and have more of a pumpkin head...with little snout...working Newf's tend to have less coat than my dogs. Hope this clears it up...its all in what the breed club is looking for...just like here in Canada we do not recognise the colors grey or cream for Newf's they would be disqualified and not allowed in the show ring...in the states these are acceptable colours. So yes, in a way there are different types of dogs in each breed....working & show....the working Rottweilers would be larger and more square. Canadian & American Rottweilers would basically be have the same standards, neither of these breed clubs (AKC or CKC) require working titles...I find the Rotties, Dobies etc. at the shows in Canada & States to be very smaller of frame and smaller. I hope that makes it as clear as mud....this is just my understanding.

Good for you & Abbey!!!! It takes time & patience to see the results we want of our dogs...good for you for taking the time. I can truly emphasize with you as my Rottie is dog aggressive...I found that desenitizing her to situations where she is seeing other dogs helps a great deal as well...too many people give up too soon...maturity can also make for a much more stable dog..adolescence can really bring out the worst in alot of dogs...and I am sure most dogs do not grow up until they reach the age of 4 years of age! :lol:

Leptospirosis is transmitted between animals through contact with infected urine; venereal and placental transfer; bite wounds; or the ingestion of infected tissue. Crowding, as found in a kennel, can increase the spread of infection. Indirect transmission occurs through exposure of susceptible animals to contaminated water sources, food, or even bedding. Stagnant or slow moving water provides a suitable habitat for Leptospira. As a result, disease outbreaks often increase during periods of flooding. In dry areas infections are more common around water sources. Freezing greatly reduces the survival of the organism in the environment. This explains why infections are more common in summer and fall and why the infection is more prevalent in temperate areas. Leptospira bacteria penetrate mucous membranes or abraded skin and multiply rapidly upon entering the blood system. From there they spread to other tissues including the kidneys, liver, spleen, nervous system, eyes, and genital tract. As the body fights the infection, the organism is cleared from most organs, but they may persist in the kidneys and be shed for weeks or months in the urine. The amount of damage done to the internal organs is variable depending on the serovar and the host it infects. After 7 or 8 days of infection, the animal will begin to recover, if the damage to the kidneys or liver is not too severe. Infections in dogs with the serovars canicola and grippotyphosa have been associated with kidney infections with minimal liver involvement. Whereas, the serovars pomona and icterohaemorrhagiae produce liver disease. Dogs younger than 6 months tend to develop more cases of liver disease regardless of the serovar. In acute infections a fever of 103-104

Yes my Newf's have been mistaken for black bears...its mainly the way they walk...they kinda have a slower more laid back rolling of the bum type of a walk which can look bearish...if that makes any sense! :lol: And yes, I had a women scream at me before for having them in public. I have had people walk to the other side of the street as they look dangerous! :o It's not some thing you see every day, a person walking in public places with Newf's in my area. There are alot of people with Newf's in my area, but, they don't take them out like in public like I do...most people find it too much of a hassle getting them loaded into the vehicle and the damage they cause to the interior of your truck/van...unless you always keep them in big crates...most of the Newf's I have owned have had to be "helped" into the truck! only one of my Newf's will jump in to my Ford explorer on his own....the other 3 have to be lifted in. I have to take their front legs and lift up them up...once their front paws are down I have to lift their rear ends up into the truck...its a real pain. Sanvean, how did you get the photo's in your post....is it possible for me to show a few pictures of my Newf's the same way???? I am totally lost when it comes to showing pictures...I have my pictures saved on Microsoft picture it 99....can you copy and paste the pictures???

Thats a good idea...a product I really like is solid gold, they sell cat food as well. With my cats I leave a dish of dry food out, I also feed them soft food as well...soft food gives your cat more fluids in their diets...cats that live solely on dry are prone to urinary tract infections...unless of course your cat drinks enough water. Some cats just will not drink enough water...male cats are more prone to urinary (FUS) than females...one winter I decided to just have my cats on dry and my male ended up with FUS...it was horrible. Any way, good luck to you and I hope you find what the problem is...you don't have any house plants around your cat may be nibbling on?

Laurel has been obedience trained by a cat! :lol: In my house hold my dogs rule the roost...I keep my cat food up on a high counter...my Newf's can still get at it....they don't even notice when one of my cats takes a swipe at them...it barely registers...same with my Rottie...she just keeps going even when the cats try to put her in her place. Actually just to let you know how high a Newf's tolerance level to pain is...or perhaps its the fact that they can be kinda dozey at times...I had one my Newf's Dilon out for a pee at the grooming shop, one of the kennel hands had a Chesapeake Bay Retriever for a walk, they are very strong dogs and was an intact male same as my Newf. the Chesapeake got away from the kennel hand intent on attacking my Newf., my Newf was sitting down at the time when the Chessie jumped him and grabbed him by the neck and was in high attack mode...I was trying to get the Chessie off him, my Newf just sat there not even registering that some thing was going on...still panting with his tongue out and looking the other way, very relaxed...I still shake my head over that episode.

I trained my Dominant/aggressive Rottweiler with positive training ...she is now the sweetest dog which I can do any thing to. When I first adopted her at 1 year of age she was so dominant you could not even reach over her head with out her trying to attack, our first couple of walks where I let her loose in a ball field resulted in her stalking then attacking me, she ripped my leather jacket and tore the arm open. I was petrified of this dog and was in the process of giving her to a Rottweiler rescue...in the mean time, I enrolled in an obedience class...oh yeah, she is also dog aggressive...when I first stepped into the room and she started going beserk and aggressive my first action was to pin her to the floor until she calmed down which resulted in my getting attacked...the obedience trainer got upset and asked why would any one do some thing as stupid as pinning a dog down and trying to do an "Alpha roll"??? she worked with me, and we used the "nothing is free" policy...which basically is just any thing she gets she has to earn...go out the door, sit first then I will let you go out...I don't always walk out first, but, I make her do some thing before hand, she sleeps with me, but, she will jump out of bed if I ask her to, she has to sit before getting fed as well, I do this training with all 5 well, now 6 of my dogs, people are very impressed when I can feed all of my dogs in one room side by side, make them all sit first and then place down their dishes, no food aggresssion (of course they always start out with food aggression) and they will even share bones, my youngest Newf. which is now 2 years can come over to my Rottie and take a bone, they end up playing tug-o-war in a friendly manner, this shocked me at first..I never thought I would see the day my dominant Rottie would be sharing items :o ...when playing, she sits before play starts, then I trained her "off" and "take it" so when I am tired of playing I tell her "off" which means drop the ball and I will put it away. I also used "off" and "take it" when she tryed to put her mouth on my arm on day...I told her "off" she let go very quickly. It has been so long ago..about 4 years that I first took her in, but, she was a really hard case...I can't remember every thing we went through....but, once I started positive training and sutle leadership training she came along way from that horrible beast I first took in...she has been never been forced or thrown to the ground ever again after the first time I tryed it...she has been given wonderful belly rubs which puts her in a submissive position....she loves belly rubs so much now that she will fall down and roll on her back for every body in hopes they will pat her. I completely trained her and guided her towards correct behavior with positive training...she is a lovely dog. I feel with the right person who has lots of patience, does not loose their cool....I have trained all of my dogs with positive only training...they are more apt to learn new things and like to learn...a dog which is forced to learn obedience or basic house rules becomes a dog which is afraid to learn new things, and frightened of doing the wrong thing. I reward the good, and bad behavior receives no reward or yelling or hitting....ignoring the dog is bad enough! :lol: We bring these dogs into our homes to live...what we find to be normal behavior for humans is not normal doggy behavior...so instead of forcing our dogs to behave and follow our rules...show them the behavior you want....just think if you were stranded on a desert island and no one spoke a language you understood...every time you did some thing against their wishes they hit you or locked you in a hut....you would be getting more confused by the day...how can you automatically know their rules and laws? our dogs don't understand our rules and laws either.

Well, I can't offer too much for suggestions...but, I will tell you what I did with my Rottweiler...when I first adopted her she was not house trained...when ever I took her for a walk and she went pee...I always made a big fuss over it...telling her what a good girl she was and always in a happy cheerful uppity voice....then I started watching her, when I saw her starting to sniff an area and was ready to go, I would say..."go pee" in a nice uppity voice...she would go and I would reward her with a good girl. It has really helped me out a great deal as I just have to give her the command...go pee...and she automatically squats. She is also very peticular where she goes pee...in areas I know she will not go I give her the command "go pee"... she will not pee in my yard unless I ask her too....she will not pee at any of my friends yards etc. she likes to pee on her walks, she loves to smell other urine marks and then pee on top of them, its a social thing for alot of dogs and they love to save it for their walks. My Newf's on the other hand don't care where they go....of course only out side! :lol: Your new girl may have had horrible house training as well...just keep every thing uppity and happy for her. I know of one supplement sold through Solid Gold for healthy urinary tracts...its called Berry Balance made from cranberry and blueberrry extract with marshmallow and vitamin C. This product helps balance urinary tract Ph, to dissolve struvite (Magnesium Ammonium-Phosphate) crystals which may develp in urine if it is too alkaline. you can visit them on line at [url]www.solidgoldhealth.com[/url] [email]dane@solidgoldhealth.com[/email] or phone: 619-258-1914 Solid gold foods are also pH balanced Good luck.

Dogs and cats are in no danger of getting any of our flus going around :wink: but, they do have their own diseases which can cause problems...cats are very suseptable to upper respiratory diseases etc. I would first rule out that its not hairballs which is causing your cat to vomit. Cats are fanatical about their grooming and will get hair balls often...this is the number 1 reason for a cat vomiting....check to see if there is solid lumps of matted fur in the vomit..if so then you can buy different oils at the Vet clinic which will help your cat pass them easier. As for any health problem where an animal is vomiting, lethargic etc. and you suspect your animal may be ill...take it to a Vet and have it looked over. There are so many reasons for animals to become ill...some are easy to take care of...and some can be a sign of terminal illness. Have your cat and dog examined. :wink:

I lived with a drunk for 13 years...it was no treat!! he was unpredictable and scary at times...some nights he would stumble through the door after the taverns had closed angry at the world...I locked myself and my dogs into a bedroom while he tore when he was sober, he was the sweetest, most caring man you would ever want to meet...he would do any thing for me and his kids and the dogs. There were other times he would come home drunk and be lovely dovy...he would try to curl up with the dogs on the floor and pet them and tell them he loved them....my dogs were tolerant of him when he was drunk, but, they were always wary. I spent 13 years trying to get him to stop drinking, but, he had some problems only he knew about which he could not deal with...his excuse for getting drunk was he needed to escape reality, and he didn't like himself...only a drunk can make himself stop drinking...even AA couldn't help him on his road to destruction. [quote]He apparently was able to ignore Freebee growling (she looks like a Lab) and centered on Laurel, because she was growling in fear. Tail tucked, she was completely quiet until he started yelling...then she backed behind me and growled in fear....and he said she was a 'VICIOUS PIT MIX...." I basically told him he would not know a Pit from a chihauhau... and that SHE had no Pit in her at all. and maybe he better not run off at the mouth since he doesn't know what he is talking about.. [/quote] Court, don't feel bad..not every one knows their breeds...sober or drunk...When I have my Newfoundland dogs out for a walk I have had people yell at me for having black bears in public, mothers upset and grabbing their children to get to safety...now, I find this very embarressing as the people are not even getting the species of my dogs right! I mean really....black bears?? :roll: why would I be walking down the street with 4 black bears and a Rottweiler??? :roll: I just laugh, and I don't try to explain myself...let them make fools of themselves.

According to the whole dog journal canned foods even the low-quality ones, tend to contain fresher, higher-quality ingredients than dry dog food. They almost always contain a higher percentage of meat than kibble (which is limited to a maximum of less than 50 percent meat by the limitations of the extruding equipment)...Also canned foods usually contain way fewer chemical additives than dry foods, if any at all. It would be wasteful to use artificial flavors in canned products; because of the moist, fragrant nature of the meat-based contents, artificial flavoring and other palatants are not needed to entice dogs. Unlike dry foods, canned foods generally contain a negligible amout of preservatives; they are unnecessary in the sterile, sealed oxygen-free environment that a can offers. If I could afford it I would feed my dogs only canned foods...as it is I always mix kibble with a few table spoons full of canned with their meals. Canned food is much better for your pet than kibble, its just the price which sways people against it...for instance for my solid gold, a can of dog food costs $2.49 canadian...I have 5 dogs that would be about $15.00 a meal (I am taking into consideration the taxes on top of the price I quoted) feeding 2 meals a day per dog would cost me $30.00 a day to feed my dogs canned foods...that is just not cost effectient, especially when I can buy a bag of kibble for about $30.00 and feed all 5 dogs for a week and only use about 2 cans for all 5 a week. If you just have one dog and its not a big eater then canned foods would probably be within your price margin.

I can understand your point horsefeathers, I do see alot of posts in many different forums where the BARF diet is a cure for every ailment from health to behavior problems, hyper hound - feed BARF, that will slow him down! lazy dog - feed BARF that will add to his vigor and make him a robust playmate! :lol: ...in my area of the world the BARF diet is not popular at all....most people have never heard of it. I find that most dogs heath problems come from people over lovin' their dogs...over feeding them by giving them too many treats, and not good treats...we're talking chips, chocolate chip cookies, hot dogs, greasy fried foods, pizza....alot of people are killing their dogs with kindness. :o A good diet is a bases of a healthy dog...but, the best diets in the world are not going to counter act all the junk that alot of people give their dogs in addition to their regular food. I am a firm believer in variety in foods...but,a healthy variety...I have no problem giving my dogs left overs, as long as they are healthy left overs. I know what you are saying..too many people jump on the band wagon and state that the reason for all our dogs current health problems is due to their not eating their natural diet...people seem to forget our household dogs evolved into scavengers from wolves...wild domestic dogs which still roam this earth do not go hunting live game for their next meal - most village scavenger dogs do not usually hunt live animals - in one documentay I watched these dogs are hungry, yet, they walk through the villages with chickens and don't even give them a second look ....wild domestic dogs will populate dumps, garbage areas, backs of restaurants etc. you will rarely find a wild domestic dog running through the woods hunting game. If you watch a documentary which shows any African village or india etc. you will see wild domestic dogs roaming the streets...these dogs do not belong to the people...they are wild scavengers which have taken up residence in villages and eating all the garbage the humans toss out....or waiting by the fishing ports for the fishermen to gut and dehead the fish and throw them to the dogs....the dogs and rats and other scavengers all live a simular life. In fact, alot of these village people despise dogs..they consider them to be dirty and if a dog happened to get into a persons house, the house is said to be unclean...they look at dogs as we look at rats. :o I can completely understand your point of view horsefeathers...in fact, one of our clients at the grooming shop has a dog which is now 21 years old...(we confirmed this with the owners Vet, we did not believe it!) this dog has lived on leftover foods, and the cheapest brand dog food possible...for the last few years it has been fed "ole roy" dog food and is doing well...no health problems at all...makes ya wonder.

Sorry horsefeathers, :oops: I'm not trying to start a debate about the raw food....it is up to the indivudual person on what they feed their animals. I myself feed a big assortment of foods for my dogs...if I have a really nutritious meal myself, I share with my dogs...left over meat and veggies which are cooked...fruits etc. I also feed alot of raw food items as well...my dogs love raw hamburg etc. (so does a friend of mine...a human friend :lol: she eats raw hamburg and likes her meat cooked just slightly with the blood still oozing) and I do feed alot of raw bones...I have been giving dogs raw bones for over 40 years. I also really love to feed kibble, I have a bag of wellness and solid gold for my dogs, I mix these foods with the solid gold canned food which they enjoy very much....kibble I find convenient.

I used to have a Doberman like that....hated the winter.....she would dart out the door pee and poop very quickly then just about run you over trying to get back in. My other dogs at the time helped to get her out and about....but, if you dog doesnt like other dogs that is not possible.... Pei obssessed has a great suggestion about booties...another item I picked up for my dobie was a warm water proof jacket..she loved the jacket and would stay out for walks a little longer as she felt warmer...

[quote]Also, taking into account that the whole BARF thing is based on people's assumption that since it's what wolves eat, it MUST be correct... Look at the longevity of wolves. They don't have very impressive longevity. Also, many of the experts who work with wolves say that they are frequently found starving, ematiated, with horrible dental problems. All this along with wolves that have been found with fowl bones lodged in places they ought not be, disproving that whole "raw bones don't splinter" theory. Wolves eat what is available to them and what they have to[/quote] Funny, Wolves have been around for millions of years...they have survived eating raw meat, bones etc. Wolves and other wild animals also have alot more to deal with with than our cute litte companions....Wolves have to deal with horrible weather, cold winters, low level of prey animals, man ruining their territories, pollution, human waste...and yes, wolves are scavengers as well as predators, but, like all animals they are going to find the easiest foods - you will find alot of wolves feeding in our garbage dumps...sad thing is they are eating our horribly unnutritious food items...possibley they are having dental problems from out sugary food items etc from the dump, or another thing they have found is wolves and other animals getting their snouts stuck in cans and chewing on some of this items as they smell food inside...not good for teeth....also our wolves do not have humans to pick ticks off them, deflea them, worm them, vaccinate them against diseases...all in all I would say our wolves are doing fine...they were created to be predators and to kill and eat prey...its call "natural order" ... Wolves can also live for quite awhile out in the wild...my brother told me the last lecture he attended was regarding wolves and coyotes...this lecture was given by a biologist who has been studing these animals for years...he advised that some they have found or have been tagged have been around 10 years old....but, of course their longtivety mainly depends on weather conditions...starvation due to lack of prey is mainly what kills them off, or disease...or bad winters, pollution and man killing them off due to wolves being pests for ranch owners etc. You will also find the same is true for deer etc. they have been found starving and ematiated...harsh weather conditions can be hard on prey animals as well..

We have the same problem here in Atlantic Canada with Coyotes and Bob Cats...they will eat local cats and dogs...if its easy game...why not??? I have lost 3 cats to Coyotes...my fault totally...I should not have let my Cats out...ever. Animals will eat what is easy to catch, some times out side dogs and cats are much easier to hunt and kill than wild rabbits etc. I never blame the wild animals...heck, we barely give them enough forest to live in...moving into civilized areas is much easier at times than trying to make it in the forest...what could be easier than to scavenge in our garbage...local restaurants are a great place to raid the garbage cans off, we let our fat little house hold pets run freely-what could be easier prey than that...I have also seen a larger pecentage of deer moving into our cities...people feed them, and offer a little protection from wolves and coyotes... I feel that a person who just opens their door and allows their dog to go outside to releive itself or take it self for a walk should not have a dog in the first place. These dogs become pests to neighbors and dirty on other peoples lawns. If a person has a dog, when it has to go out side at night...put it on a leash and walk with it until it goes, or have a fully enclosed fenced in yard...most Coyotes or Wolves will not go through any extra work to get in...especially if its a big dog and may fight back...they are very wary of being injured...an injured wolf or coyote will not make it long in the wild with a wound before infection sets in...they will go for easy prey. We have coyotes hanging around the barn where I co-lease a horse, the horses are brought in at night....never left out side after dusk. People should never get mad at wild life...get mad at humans who are ruining their natural habitats. Isnt it a crime how humans are so offended when a wild animal dares to co-habitate with us and has the nerve to eat free food (our pets). Bottom line, take care of your pets....and leave the wild life be...

MishugiShihTzuMom, If it makes you feel any better I deal with small dog aggression daily at my places of employment. It's some times human nature to let our "little" dogs get aways with much much more than we would allow a larger dog. Small dogs are thought to be "cute" when they are behaving in unruly ways. About 10% of our clientel at the grooming clinic own Lhasa's and Shih Tzu's...about 5% of the owners have out of control dogs and 3% have been bitten by their own dog, or their dog has bitten some one else...one of the biggest mistakes I see is many owners coddle their dogs when they are displaying bad behavior such as growling, barking etc. any bad behavior you are not happy with should not be rewarded with a pet, or a soft tone voice asking..."what's the problem dear..its only the mailman???" dogs don't understand our language, they understand our tone of voice and body language. I ignored my dogs when they started undesirable acts....or I sent them to bed. My Rottie when I first adopted her was attacking me!!! she ripped the arm of my leather jacket by attacking me and trying to tear at my arm! I used the simple "nothing is free in life" with her...and it worked wonders...when she got aggressive towards strangers or friends coming into my home I sent her to bed....when I allowed her to come back down (after the excitement of them actually coming in the door was over) I gave each of my guests treats to give her and encouraged them to ignore her until she settled down..then give her a treat. I encouraged my company to only pat her after she had settled down....my Rottie soon learned that by calming down etc. she would be rewarded with belly rubs...now when she meets some one new...she some times will fall to the ground and expose her belly for the desired belly rub...she associates my guests as wonderful petting machines. I never encourage her or reward her to bark at any one coming to my home...I don't exactly punish her either....I will send her to her bed which isnt really punishment, but, it is a "time out". One last suggestion, small dogs and children some times do not mix...I wouldn't let my Shih Tzu play with children..children can be rough without realizing it..and lots of body language may be going on that you are not aware of...say per chance the child is trying to hug Madison...this can be a very threatening gesture to a dog...especially a dominant dog, I know many dominant dogs which will not tolerate a hand directly over their head....there are so many small actions that can bring out the worst in alot of dogs. Good luck to you, if you would like to know more about body language etc. let me know....I can go over some different things...my favorite thing to do with dogs which I don't know (new clients etc.) is to either lick my lips....this is a calming signal to a potentially fearful or aggressive dog....no, they don't think you are sizing them up for your next meal... :lol: I suggest to people when they first meet my Rottie to turn their head slightly to one side and not to look directly at her...turning your head slightly is a calming signal....I also get down to the dogs level when meeting them for the first time...by standing up and reaching down to pat...this can be a very threatening posture for a dog which is timid, fearful, dominant..etc.

Thanks every one...I'm going to take ellieangel up on his offer... :lol: [quote]Cassie can you mail me pics ? I will put them up for you I would love to see your new boy he sounds like a sweetheart [/quote] ellieangel, if you could PM me and explain how to mail these to you,...I would be eternally grateful. I still have to take some pictures of Beau...I am so far behind modern times I don't even have a digital camera...I just get a film and then scan the pic's into my computer.... :oops: I am having difficulty adjusting to the new modern world. :lol: I'll send you pic's of all my Newf's and my Rottie and I will get some pic's of Beau as soon as I pick up a film...that is really nice of you to offer this....thank you. Holz_Boomer, you found Boomer on the streets...how kind of you to take him in... :angel: Marble, your dog is a dobie mix as well....boy will we have alot to discuss! I had a purebred before and she was a complete velcro dog.....she had to be touching you at all times! :lol: I can see that Beau is going to be like this as well...when I sit down he tries to get as close as possible without climbing into my skin....then he puts his head on my shoulder or lap...that is if my Rottie is in a mood to share me... :lol: my Rottie does not get aggressive to him, but, she gets very pushy and uses her body to keep him away from me by body slamming him. :lol: then she turns around and licks his mouth as if to say...sorry, I like ya lots....but, there are some things I don't share! :lol:

What I do with my dogs in the Winter...oh yes, it gets cold up here in Canada! :lol: I take them out for 3 walks during the day...I like them to get sunlight in the winter since the days are shorter. I found a great ball field and let my dogs run in it while I sit in my car with the motor running and heater going! the ball field is completely closed in and no one else uses it this time of the year....I pick up their poop after they are finished playing. Do you have another dog that can wear yours out? and a good enclosed ball field???

Thank you TDG, that was a wonderful post. I tend not to agree with many of the food related topics that the Vets tell me....I don't say any thing out loud...but, I make my own decisions...I am just so happy I have this forum to post my questions that no one else can answer for me! the Vet clinic I work at pushes Hills and science diet...I looked on the bag at the ingredients...there was the horrible truth of the quality....preserved with BHA/BHT....that stuff will never get into any of my dogs belly's. Thank you Black GSD, I like the name science death!!! :lol: I work as a receptionist at the Vet clinic and it kills me to have to sell these products to customer's who trust the Vet is selling the BEST food...people still tend to take word of mouth instead of doing research for quality pet foods....and no one that comes into our clinic knows how to read a list of ingredients on bags of dog food...or even on their own food...I was quite surprised the other day when I grabbed a box of cereal (I usually only buy organic cereals...but, this one looked so good!!!) when I got up to the cash as I was standing in line I was reading the list of ingredients...preserved with BHA/BHT...I was shocked!!!! :o they can slip this crap into our own food as well....I don't even want to think about what is in hot dogs!!!!!

HazelNutMeg, I currently have 6 dogs and 3 cats....hopefully I will be able to keep the 6th dog. I have 4 Newfoundland dogs...only one of them is legally my dog...the other 3 legally belong to the breeder, she basically farms them out at to me....after she finishes with them she will then sign them over to me...at no charge...this is the best way to get a dog! :lol: the breeder pays all Vet bills, food, obedience classes (I am trying to get a CD on my 2 males...my females have no interest in obedience) The breeder still uses them for breeding and showing, so there fore the 2 males; (Dilon & Gil) are still intact and 1 of my females (Tori) has not been spayed...actually she is a little over 2 years of age now and will be bred her next heat cycle...she will not be whelping at my home..thank goodness! :lol: she will go stay with the breeder until the pups are old enough. My oldest female Newf. Cass...is now 8 years old and still acts like a pup, she is spayed and legally mine, the breeder signed her over to me when she was 5 years old. I rescued my Rottweiler; she was left tied in a back yard while her owner was in jail...this was a very sad case and thank goodness she was found! the SPCA asked if I would keep her as she had too many issues and they felt where I live on my own with no children I would be the best person to handle her and resolve the issues....I am proud to say that she has over come all her aggressive tendancies and is the perfect pet. My newest Dobie mix I have named Beau, he is lovely....but, also has a few issues I will work on once he is back to health. All of my cats I have rescued as well...all of my animals get along wonderful together...with my Newfoundlands I have never had to worry about any aggressive issues...they don't understand what aggression is! :lol: I really wish I knew how to post pictures...I have tried to follow all the instructions....but, I am very computer incompetent and I get confused....very easily. I love the pictures of your fur baby...and you have a really cool way of displaying the pictures on the bottom of your post...how do you do that????

Aggression in dogs is an important behavioral problem; in fact, it is the most common problem seen at animal behavior clinics. Like any other behavioral problem, there is no 'quick cure' for aggression. However, if an owner is willing to get qualified help and put in the time and effort required, aggression can usually be controlled. Dominance aggression - Most dogs are content to let people be in charge. As puppies, they quickly learn to look to us to let them know what we want them to do. Some dogs seem to have a harder time with this. A dominantly aggressive dog will consistently growl, snap, or bite when a person does something, or asks the dog to do something, which the dog does not like. This is different than a dog that is assertive or pushy, but will obey a firm command. This is also not the same situation as a dog which has been pushed beyond her limit by cruelty or pain. A dominantly aggressive dog has an inappropriate response to normal situations. The dog is trying to control the situation with her reaction, rather than allowing a person to have control. These dogs may be protective over food or toys, or favorite sleeping areas. They may react if they are groomed, or if you stare at them, or if they are punished. In the beginning, the problem usually only occurs at certain times, for example, if you disturb your dog while she is eating. Then it begins to occur more often, when you move to place the leash over her head, or tell her to get off of the sofa, etc. The problem is not the situation, but the issue of control. Yelling, or physical correction such as scruffing, rolling the dog over, or "hanging" the dog by her collar or choke chain are not appropriate or effective form of discipline, and will only make matters worse. These attempts to "show the dog who is boss" may challenge the dog to be more aggressive, may injure the dog, and do nothing to teach the dog a more appropriate behavior in place of aggression. Dominance aggression usually begins at around 18-24 months of age, when dogs become socially mature. Less commonly, it can occur in puppies as young as 4-5 months. While intact dogs may have a higher tendency towards dominance aggression, spaying or neutering alone will not solve the problem once it has started. Effective treatment involves behavior modification, combined with anti-anxiety medication, if needed. As with any behavioral problem, some basic guidelines apply: Seek professional help if your dog is showing aggression. Set up an appointment with your veterinarian, to talk about the situation and have a thorough physical examination performed. Some rather common health problems can make an otherwise even-tempered dog aggressive. These include but are not limited to epilepsy, hypothyroidism, arthritis, hip dysplasia, and dental disease. Your veterinarian may recommend some testing such as a complete blood count, a chemistry panel, or a thyroid test. If your dog is aggressive towards people, be realistic with yourself about the situation. If the way your puppy nips at you when she plays concerns you, do not just hope that she will outgrow it, get some help to stop the behavior. If your adult dog growls when people walk past while she is eating, do not just assume that she will never take things a step further and bite someone. Problems like these are much easier to control early on, before you have a dog that you are afraid of, or that has bitten someone. Unless you have worked with dogs with behavior problems, the best way to help your dog is to get assistance from a professional. Choose a trainer, veterinarian, or animal behaviorist with lots of experience in this area. Especially if your dog has already bitten someone, doing the wrong thing can make the situation worse, with serious results. It can be very helpful to have someone to talk to and ask questions of, especially if your dog does not seem to be responding in the way you expected. If you choose to work on the problem alone, you are taking a tremendous responsibility for the safety of the people and animals that dog comes into contact with. Increase the exercise. Dogs that get enough exercise are far less likely to have behavioral problems - of any kind - than dogs that are couch potatoes. How much exercise is enough? Most of us under-estimate the amount of exercise our dogs need: many trainers and behaviorists recommend 45-60 minutes of brisk exercise (until the dog is panting) twice a day! Running after the occasional squirrel in the back yard will not do it; the dog needs fairly continuous exercise to burn off all that energy he has built up while he has been waiting for you to come home. Play Frisbee with your dog; take her swimming, out in the woods to run, to a dog park, to doggie day-care. Take your dog jogging with you. Small breed dogs need plenty of exercise, too. They can go on long, brisk walks. They can play fetch. This is a game you can play outdoors or inside in a long hallway. Use several balls, so you can keep things moving. Ask the dog to sit before you throw the ball each time. Also keep in mind that many types of dogs were bred to do a job. Give them the mental stimulation they need with obedience or agility classes, field trials, learning new commands, etc. If your dog is not used to this much exercise, you will need to increase it gradually. If your dog has any health problems, consult with your veterinarian about a safe exercise program. Obviously, if your dog is aggressive to other dogs, doggie day-care or a dog park may not be a good idea. And exercise alone will certainly not be the total answer for a dog's behavior problems. However, increased exercise can really help to 'take the edge off' (think of how relaxed you feel after a good work-out). Breaking the cycle of aggressive behavior Dogs are individuals, and what works best to correct aggressive behavior is different in each case. Read and learn as much as you can. The following tips are often helpful for dogs with dominance aggression. Again, if things are at the point where there may be a danger to yourself or others, get professional help. Avoid potentially dangerous situations. Do not do the things that cause an aggressive response in the dog, whether it is staring at the dog, hugging it, or disturbing it while it is sleeping. If the dog growls when her food dish is handled, give the dog something else to do while the dish is removed; fetching a ball, going for a walk. Do not use any treats or toys which may cause the dog to become possessive. If the dog starts to show any aggression, re-direct her attention. Take out the leash, or a favorite toy, and ask the dog to come to you and sit. You can also just walk away. Later, when the dog is calm and comes to you for attention, ask her to sit or lie down before you pet her. Keeping a long leash on the dog whenever she is inside can help you to move the dog when needed. If the dog has already bitten someone, it may be best to have the dog wear a basket muzzle in the house, so that it can have social interaction with the family and not be isolated. Never leave a dog alone with a muzzle or leash on, indoors or out. Use a Gentle Leader or Halti head collar and make sure it is properly fitted. This is not a muzzle; it does keep the dog's mouth closed when gentle tension is applied, which has a calming, subduing effect. It also gives you much better control of the dog, since it works much like a horse's halter. Never leave a head collar on a dog in a crate, or if there is no adult present to supervise. Use a head collar outside for walks and inside during behavior modification exercises; it greatly reduces the ability of the dog to pull you where he wants to go. Teach your dog that she must earn everything, from you and anyone else, with appropriate, calm behavior. From now on, anything your dog wants means that she must first do something for you, such as sit. You are in control, not the dog. Do not give the dog your attention on-demand. Ignore the dog if she whines, or pushes at you with her nose or paw. Wait until she stops making demands and is calm. Then ask her to sit, and pet her. Make the dog sit or lie down and remain calm each time you give her treats, before you put the leash on, before going outside, before you throw the ball, etc. Several times a day, work with your dog on 'sit' and 'stay' commands, using small treats, and lots of praise. Teach your dog that people have higher status than she does. Do not allow the dog to be on the couch or bed or in other places where humans sit or sleep. Do not let your dog stand up and put her front paws on your shoulders. Do not let your dog jump up on people at all. If the dog is going to jump up, ask her to sit or to lie down. When you come to a doorway, ask the dog to sit; then you go first and the dog follows. You should be the one to initiate playtime and decide when it will end. Avoid any games like 'tug-of-war' that may encourage your dog to be possessive about a toy. Practice having your dog come to you and 'drop' or 'give' whatever she is carrying. Any game of fetch should end with the dog giving the toy back to you, so that you 'win.' At mealtimes, prepare the dog's food, but do not give it right away. When the family has finished eating, make the dog sit and wait until you place the dish down and say "ok." For any of these exercises to help, they must be used consistently, and the whole family needs to be involved. Owners need to be prepared to work at it for the rest of the dog's life. Once a dog has learned to defer to people, there are additional exercises which can be used. These are designed to 'desensitize' the dog to the situation in which it has shown aggression (for example, at feeding time or during grooming). These exercises can be very effective if done correctly. Depending on the dog and the level of aggression, these situations can also be dangerous. This is where I would recommend owners work with an experienced professional, if they are not doing so already. Sometimes, medication is needed in addition to behavior modification exercises. Commonly used medications include clomipramine (Clomicalm), amitriptyline (Elavil), and fluoxetine (Prozac). Patience is important; it can take weeks to months for certain drugs to become effective. These medications are powerful, and may interact with other drugs, so it is essential for your veterinarian to prescribe them and monitor their use. Resources for Owners As noted above, your local veterinarian is the best starting point. He or she can assess the situation, prescribe medication if needed, and refer you to other professionals who are experienced with behavior problems in dogs. Many veterinarians are able to help with behavior modification. There are also many excellent trainers and other behaviorists available. The following web sites may be helpful: Directory of Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists - [url]www.animalbehavior.org[/url] American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior - [url]www.avma.org/avsab/[/url]

Thanks TDG and DogPaddle, I guess I was mainly wondering about this first because I co-lease a horse and I consider her a pet along with my dogs...and if they use "Pet" horses...wouldn't they possibly euthanize the horse at the barn then have the deceased "pet" horses picked up for the meat factory...so basically in the dog food some of the substance for euthanizing the horse is still in the meat...I had heard that they found this in "some" dog foods....I can't even think of the name of the substance...must be too early in the moring for me. I am so glad I joined this forum, there are so many things I am finding out about dog food....I'll stick with my solid gold and wellness...oh another thing I change my dogs food every 3 months...the Vets I work with told me this is not wise..yet I have read that it is the best thing to do to keep your dog from building up food intolerances...am I right or the Vets...the Vets I work with said if you find a food that agrees with your dog stay with that same food for basically the life of your adult dog...then when he/she becomes a senior stay with the same brand and get a senior food??? that doesnt sound right to me...oh, and another thing they say is if your dog needs to loose weight (one of mine does need to loose weight) get a reducing diet food...I was going to just give less of the solid gold and wellness...the Vets told me my dog will not get the required nutrients she requires for her weight..the foods I am feeding do not offer reducing diets...at least as far as I know....at least they do not have them at the store I purchase from??? Once again thanks guys....you 2 really know your food. :wink:

A torn nail, can be very painful. You can buy Kwik stop at a local pet store to stop the bleeding or dip the toe in flour and pat the powder in...before doing this clean the nail well to prevent infection from setting in, wash the area well with soap and water, then gently towel it dry and apply a small dab of antibacterial ointment...wrap the paw and then take Lucky to the Vet tomarrow...they will probably remove the entire nail...so Lucky may have to go under Anesthesia, just in case this happens don't give Lucky water in the morning and no breakfast, I'd take his water away before going to bed tonight....this will make it easier for the Vets to safely put Lucky under if they need to in the morning. Once the nail is removed, healing will begin. Eventually, a new nail will regrow. This may take months, and the nail may be malformed. Depending upon the injury, antibiotics may be given.