Keeshers

Ok, so why would anyone breed a dog with wrinkles that has hair that would cover up said wrinkles? That makes no sense at all to me. I can't imagine what kind of skin conditions this poor mutt would have, let alone the other health problems that would come from a breeder just wanting to make a buck.

OOOooooOOO...very pretty! I think Akitas are gorgeous!

Although I do appreciate advocating good nutrition for dogs, I'm not sure that's the kind of advice the original poster was looking for... Anyway, first you should rule out medical problems. When that occurs and if the problem still persists, its a training issue. Here is my advice for training: 1) crate train your dog. Trust me on this one. It's not cruel; it's comforting AND it will help house break him. Dogs do not like to poop in the same space where they sleep. If you give your dog a crate that is for a dog his size, he will avoid using the bathroom in it, enabling you to house break him more easily. 2) Bear in mind that it takes a "new" older dog about a month to settle in. You're probably starting to see his real personality, and the traits that you're dealing with may be why he was released to a shelter in the first place. 3) take him to obedience training. It will not only help you establish a bond with your new dog, but it will teach HIM how to be a good pet, so that you will want to keep him and be his forever home. *****for crate training, you'll have to start with the basics**** 1) put treats in the back of the crate and let the dog go in the crate to get them. Do this several times. 2) once he/she is comfortable with the crate, shut the door. But, only do it for 10 minutes at a time at the max. Praise and treat every time he goes in the crate on command, or on his own. Let him think its HIS idea to go in there, and let him make the crate his own space. (ie...if he gets in trouble and runs to his crate to hide, don't punish him in the crate) 3) make sure that at first, his crate is in a place where he can see all household activities so that he does not feel left out of the family. Again, let him think its his idea to go in there. 4) IF you leave him in the crate, shutting the door behind him, and he starts crying and whining and screaming to get out- You will want to IGNORE HIM until he stops. Once he stops crying to get out and calms down properly, you can give him a treat through the bars of the crate THEN you can let him out to hang out with the rest of the family. Continue to do this, even if its only at 10 minute intervals at first. 5) Eventually, you'll be able to keep him in there for longer and longer periods of time with out him complaining and just think, NOW you can more safely take him to the vets OR now you can travel with him if you so choose to do that! Think about how much more you'll be able to involve him in your family life! 6) Now comes the potty training- once you start leaving him in the crate for longer periods of time (like if you went to the store for two hours, out for a movie, or even while you are at work), you can start potty training. AS SOON as you let him out of the crate, immediately take him outside to potty. If he doesn't go immediately, wait him out. Remember, you are the human with the stronger will. Eventually, he will have to pee. When he does go, praise him like he just won you a million bucks. If he's out and about in the house while you are home and he starts circling or sniffing the ground or crouching down, rush him immediately outside. That is your dog tell you that he has to use the bathroom. If you ignore it, he will go in your house. If he goes in the house while you are not watchingDO NOT RUB HIS NOSE IN HIS OWN PEE OR POOP. After all, it is your fault for not watching him and besides, That will make him afraid to poop around you, and that will make potty training so much harder. Make sure that when you potty train, you use an enzymatic shampoo that will remove all phermones from your carpet. That's how they pee in the same spot again and again...the phermones in the urine tell them where to go. Good luck! :wink:

Unless you have a signed agreement or a contract with a breeder, you are out of luck. I'm very sorry to hear of this circumstance for you, but more sorry for the dogs.

Wow, that's not an easy question to answer. Great breeders differ with the breeds that they're breeding. And, if you're going with a breeder, go with a GREAT one, not just a "good enough" one. "Good enough" could cost you tons in vet bills. Anyway, a great breeder will be honest with you. If you ask what types of health problems they can expect, they'll lay it all out and tell you what you can expect from THEIR lines. Sometimes, even different lines of dogs have different health problems. A great breeder will know everything about anything regarding their breed and will happily answer any question you ask. For example, if you were getting a golden retriever and asked how the breed came to be, a great breeder will tell you who bred to whom, what dogs were crossed and why, and how they started their kennel. A great breeder will LOVE to talk to you all about your breed. A great breeder will know what genetic problems to test for and will test for them in all of their breeding stock. In my breed, that means sub-luxation of the patellas, VWB (von willebrand's disease), PHPT (thyroid cancer), PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), alopecia X, and will have never bred a dog that has epilepsie. A great breeder will title their dogs before breeding in some type of way. Either they will be performance tested, having sporting/herding/working/schutzhund titles or they will have conformation titles. Ideally, they'll have both. A great breeder will make you sign a contract stating that you will spay/neuter the dog/bitch, that you will keep in contact with them, and that, if for any reason, you cannot keep the dog, that it will be transported back to them. Plus, they will guarentee the health of the dog for NO LESS THEN TWO YEARS. I'm sorry, but a health contract for 72 hours is just stupid. What all of this means for someone buying a pet is that their pet will be structurally sound and will live a long, active life and will LOOK like and ACT like the breed that it is supposed to be. It will have tight feet and patellas so that it can romp and play and continue to be a sound animal until a ripe old age, etc. It will have a shorter back, so as to reduce and minimize back injuries. It's shoulders will have proper angulation to reduce wear and tear. Its hips will not be disfigured with bad genetics, so that it will not be dysplastic as an adult. It will have a solid temperment that is correct for whatever breed it is, so that you can trust the dog around strangers, other dogs, and children. These are things that a normal puppy buyer won't know or even think about, but it makes all the difference in the life of your pet. Not only that, but if you as a pet buyer have any questions about why your dog is doing this or that, or how to train them properly, or if you feel that something is not right with your dog, you will have a life time back up, friend, and resource. THAT is a great breeder.