imported_Matty

[URL]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=2004[/URL]

Can West Nile virus (WNV) cause illness in dogs or cats? A relatively small number of WNV infected dogs (less than 40) and only 1 WNV infected cat have been reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) during 2003. Experimentally infected dogs* showed no symptoms after infection with WNV. Some infected cats exhibited mild, nonspecific symptoms during the first week after infection – for the most part only showing a slight fever and slight lethargy. It is unlikely that most pet owners would notice any unusual symptoms or behavior in cats or dogs that become infected with WNV. How can my veterinarian treat my cat or dog if they are/may be infected with WNV? There is no specific treatment for WNV infection. Full recovery from the infection is likely. Treatment would be supportive (managing symptoms, if present) and consistent with standard veterinary practices for animals infected with a viral agent. Does my dog/cat becoming infected pose a risk to the health of my family or other animals? There is no documented evidence of dog or cat-to-person transmission of West Nile virus. The evidence suggests that dogs do not develop enough virus in their bloodstream to infect more mosquitoes. Cats develop slightly higher levels of virus in their bloodstream, but it is unclear if this would be enough to infect mosquitoes. It is very unlikely that cats would be important in furthering the spread of the virus. Preliminary studies have not been able to detect virus in the saliva of infected dogs. This suggests that dog bites pose a low risk, if any, of transmission of WNV from dogs to other animals or people. If your animal becomes infected with WNV, this suggests that there are infected mosquitoes in your area. You should take measures to prevent mosquitoes from biting you (use repellent and wear protective clothing.) How do cats and dogs become infected with West Nile virus? Dogs and cats become infected when bitten by an infected mosquito. There is also evidence that cats can become infected with the virus after eating experimentally infected mice. Is there a vaccine for cats or dogs? No. Currently, there is no WNV vaccine available for cats or dogs. Should a dog or cat infected with West Nile virus be destroyed? No. There is no reason to destroy an animal just because it has been infected with West Nile virus. Full recovery from the infection is likely. Treatment would be supportive and consistent with standard veterinary practices for animals infected with a viral agent. Can I use insect repellent on my pets? DEET-based repellents, which are recommended for humans, are not approved for veterinary use (largely because animals tend to ingest them by licking). Talk with your veterinarian for advice about the appropriate product for use on your pet. What else should I know? If you find a dead bird: Do not handle the body with your bare hands. Contact your local health department for instructions on reporting and disposing of the body. References and Further Reading Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Division of Vector-borne Infectious Diseases. West Nile Virus background home page: [url]http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/westnile/index.htm#case[/url]. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Division of Vector-borne Infectious Diseases. West Nile Virus questions and answers: [url]http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/westnile/prevention_info.htm#1[/url]. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Weekly Update: West Nile Virus Activity – United States: [url]http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/westnile/publications.htm[/url] Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report (MMWR). *Experimental Infection of Cats and Dogs with West Nile Virus: [url]http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/eid/vol10no1/02-0616.htm[/url].

Here is another site to check out. There is tons of information in this site,if you look under problem behaviors it lists chewing and how to stop it. [url]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547[/url]

Here is a site on ordering books written by Jean Donaldson [url]http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/results.asp?sourceid=00346648527927286431&bfdate=09-05-2004+17:29:56&ATH=Jean+Donaldson[/url] Here is another book which I have heard is highly recommended. [b]Before & After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy & Well-Behaved Dog Author: Dunbar, Dr Ian[/b] [quote]She usually brings this dog to work with her because she doesn't like to leave him alone because he chews things.[/quote] The chewing is bad,but, at least she is taking the pup out with her. Socialization is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of owning a pup. At least she got that part right.

Two books that might have some info on a more holistic approach to treatment are Dr M Goldstein's The Nature Of Animal Healing, Martin Zucker's Veterinarians' Guide To Natural Remedies For Dogs and Dr Pitcairn has recipes in his book Guide To Natural Health For Dogs & Cats thatmay be helpful. You could also suggest doing some research on NAET (Dr Nambudripad's Allergy Elimination Technique). It uses acupuncture, chiropractic and nutrition to help eliminate food and environmental allergies. I dont know a whole lot about it, but it might be worth looking into.

Its also nice when you know the employees are certified for animal first aid and CPR. The kennel I go to has employees who are certified animal care tech's. They not only LOVE my dog, but, they also know what to do in an emergency. They also groom, even for quick cleans I like to know the person bathing knows what they are doing. I wouldn't want to pick up my long coated breed only to find they created mats in the coat.

[quote]Where do you get your bones from?[/quote] I get my bones from a local butcher, once you get to know them they give great deals. He will leave extra cartlidge and meat on my bones :wink: great for dogs with deteriating joint disease. [quote]What size/proportions/cuts have you found to be best for your dogs?[/quote] My dog likes the femur bone with the marrow in it. I also give her a leg of lamb every once in awhile. [quote]Do you sterilize them in any way before feeding? [/quote] I get them fresh and then throw them in the freezer. I don't sterilize. [quote]How often can you feed bones without worrying about upseting the balance of nutrients in the dog's current diet? [/quote] I never really thought about this. It never seems to have bothered any of my dogs health wise. [quote]Does anyone have a dog that tends to gulp food if they feel they might get it taken either by people or other dogs? And if so, how do you deal with it? [/quote] Never had this problem, I would be frightened that the dog would be an aggressive chewer and maybe get peices of bone stuck in the digestive system. A raw meaty bone may make your dog a little bit more protective of his new treat. [quote]What problems (even if they weren't really big problems) did/have you had in feeding raw bones? [/quote] I had one dog which was an aggressive chewer and broke off all of the tips of his teeth. I can't be sure if this was due to the bones or if it was because he liked to carry rocks. I think some people give bone meal in replacement of raw bones as they feel they can perhaps control the ratio. Some people also worry about blockages.

[quote]Cassie, if your dogs see you as the provider, then they see you as alpha, whether you like it or not The first thing a person learns when dealing with an alpha dog is to make that dog think of them as the provider. By letting your dog know that you are the source of all good things, you are setting yourself up as alpha. If you let a dog get whatever they wanted, whenever THEY wanted it, then you would be setting THEM up as alpha[/quote] Quote by Seijun, Alpha is such a loose term. I am the Alpha of my horse as well, last I heard my horse was not a member of a wolf pack :lol:

It was probably Demodectic mange the pup had. Demodectic mange is found on the skin of all dogs. Dogs/pups with abnormal immune systems can not defend themselves against the mite. On an unhealthy pup this mite can reproduce very quickly and cause alot of problems and when the pups immune system is already weak it makes it twice as hard to treat. The abnormality in the dog's immune system is hereditary add an unhealthy life and poor nutrition the pup probably didn't stand a chance. :( We had our local SPCA pick up a few pups from a neglectful home with demodectic mange. The vets were only able to save 2 of the most strongest of the pups and it was VERY costly.

My DOG! your arms look wicked :o give the cat some time to settle down. Even with the dogs and cats that seem to love each other there can be one instance where the dog can either go into predatory drift and attack a kitty friend. Read this article re: your scratches. It probably won't apply to you, but, better safe than sorry. What is Cat Scratch Disease? [quote] [b]Cat Scratch Disease [/b](CSD), sometimes called Cat Scratch Fever, has been diagnosed in people since the early 1900's. It is caused by an infection with the bacteria called Bartonella henselae. Most people who develop CSD have been bitten or scratched by a cat, often during play. It has been estimated that there are over 20,000 cases of CSD in people in the United States each year. Luckily, in most cases recovery is rapid and uneventful, but in some instances there are complications that can become quite serious. Recent research is providing useful new information on CSD, but there are still some important questions left to answer. What causes CSD? Cat Scratch Disease in people is caused by Bartonella henselae. Other species of Bartonella exist, and are thought to be the cause of other diseases in cats, dogs, and wild canids such as coyotes and foxes. Research is continuing to provide new information on the Bartonella organism. In this article we will concentrate on Bartonella henselae as the cause of Cat Scratch Disease in humans. What are the symptoms of CSD in people? Seven to 12 days after being bitten or scratched by a cat, the person usually notices a swelling and then a small abscess or blister at the site of the injury. About one to three weeks after this, the person may develop swollen lymph nodes in the area closest to the injury. The swelling may persist for a few weeks to several months. A person with CSD may also experience flu-like symptoms: fever, headache, fatigue, muscle soreness and poor appetite. Most people recover in just a few weeks. In about 5-15% of cases, other more serious conditions may develop, including heart, eye, brain, intestinal, and skin problems. People with immunocompromised conditions (such as organ transplant patients, those undergoing immunosuppressive treatments for cancer, and people with HIV/AIDS) are more likely than others to have complications from CSD. How is CSD treated? Antibiotics may be used to treat CSD, although they usually do not seem to shorten the length of the infection in people with healthy immune systems. For immunocompromised patients, antibiotics are important to prevent secondary infections from starting, and are often continued for several months. Could my cat be carrying Bartonella? Yes, it is possible for a healthy cat to be a carrier of the CSD organism. Your cat would most likely not show any signs of disease. Kittens are most likely to be infected and, because they are so playful, more likely than older cats to pass the bacteria to people. Because children spend the most time playing with cats, and may tend to play more roughly than adults and therefore get bitten or scratched more often, they are the group most likely to develop CSD. How does a cat get infected with Bartonella henselae? It is thought that the CSD microorganism is transmitted to cats by fleas. A significant number of Bartonella organisms can be found in flea feces. Fleas shed feces on cats, and cats are most likely infected as they scratch or groom themselves, ending up with flea feces (and the Bartonella organism) in their mouth and on their claws. Research shows that the highest numbers of cats testing positive for the CSD organism were from warm, humid climates, where fleas thrive. Humans are infected when the organism is transferred from the cat's mouth or claws to a person via a bite or scratch. So far there is no evidence that a bite from an infected flea can give a person CSD. Ticks have been shown to carry some strains of the Bartonella organism in dogs, and could possibly be carriers in cats also, although ticks are usually less of a problem in cats than in dogs. Does a cat that is a Bartonella carrier get sick, also? The cat involved usually does not show any signs of disease. In a few cases there may be fever, swollen lymph nodes, and muscle pain. If there are signs, they are generally mild and resolve quickly, as is the case in most humans. However, recent studies indicate that there may be a connection between Bartonella infection and certain chronic inflammatory conditions in cats (including gingivitis, stomatitis, inflammatory bowel disease, certain eye problems, and some urinary tract abnormalities). More research is needed to clarify this. Can I have my cat tested for Bartonella? Since most cats carrying the organism do not show any signs of sickness themselves, not many people request testing for their cats. However, people who may be at higher risk for complications from CSD may wish to talk to their veterinarian about testing for their cat. Bartonella testing may also be recommended for cats that develop one of the conditions that may be caused by infection with this organism (as mentioned above). People considering testing for their cats should be aware that there are several tests available for Bartonella, and that each test has limitations. Available tests include blood culture, PCR, EIA, IFA, and Western Blot. The Bartonella organism does not circulate constantly in the blood, but only intermittently, which can cause difficulty in the interpretation of test results. Blood culture (growing the Bartonella organism from a blood sample) is considered the most reliable test in cats, but because the organism only circulates intermittently, several consecutive cultures are needed to be certain whether the organism is present or not. Polymerase chain reaction (PCR) is a very sensitive DNA test that can detect the presence of Bartonella DNA, but because the organism circulates intermittently, PCR may also need to be repeated several times. However, results can usually be obtained more rapidly than with blood culture. Enzyme immunoassay (EIA), Immunofluorescent Antibody (IFA), and Western Blot all test for antibodies to the Bartonella organism. The level of antibody present is reported as a number called a 'titer.' For many diseases, a certain titer is considered indicative of exposure to the disease. However, an antibody titer indicative of infection has not yet been established and agreed upon for Bartonella in cats. This makes it difficult to interpret these test results. Research is continuing in this area. In addition to the complications involved for testing for Bartonella, it can be difficult to effectively treat for this organism. Routine use of antibiotics for prevention or treatment is not generally recommended. Because Bartonella can circulate intermittently in a cat's bloodstream, it can be difficult to know when treatment has been effective. The organism may seem to have been cleared, only to show up again on later tests. Many different antibiotics have been tried, and so far none have been conclusively shown to fully clear this infection in cats. Azithromycin is recommended by some investigators. Follow-up testing is needed to be certain the infection has truly been cleared from the cat's system. Rigorous flea control (for both the cat and the environment) is essential, and ticks should also be controlled. How can I reduce the risk of my cat becoming infected with Bartonella? Because Bartonella is transmitted by fleas, and possibly by ticks, the best protection is to keep your cat free of these pests. For more information on this, see the article Flea Control and Prevention. What can I do to reduce my risk of getting Cat Scratch Disease? Keep your cat free of fleas and ticks. Avoid rough play with cats, especially kittens. Wash any cat bites and scratches immediately with soap and lots of water. Keep your cat's nails trimmed. Do not allow cats to lick open wounds that you may have. If you develop an infection where you were scratched or bitten by a cat, or if you develop symptoms including fever, headache, swollen lymph nodes, and fatigue, contact your physician. Immunocompromised people considering adopting a cat may wish to choose an adult cat from a flea-controlled environment, and should have the cat tested for Bartonella before bringing it home. Although Cat Scratch Disease is just one of several diseases that people can get from cats, in most cases the risk can be greatly decreased by being informed and by taking a few common-sense precautions. If you have questions, seek the advice of your veterinarian and your physician. For most people, the risk of harm is greatly outweighed by the pleasure and companionship cats provide.[/quote]

I am getting a bad impression of some of the members here. I guess the reply could have been worded differently. [quote]I think you misunderstood. :wink: We are not getting a puppy. We are adopting from a rescue league, not a breeder. We don't have the time to take care of a puppy since no one is home during the day. :wink: [/quote] That would have been nicer.

[quote]I think you misunderstood. We are NOT getting a puppy. We are adopting from a rescue league, not a breeder. We don't have the time to take care of a puppy since no one is home during the day.[/quote] :o That is one nasty reply.

[url]http://www.peteducation.com/general.cfm?cls=0&static_pagesid=19[/url]

[quote]My vet seems to think this IS our last resort as she's so badly degenerated already[/quote] Think of all the money the vet will be making by selling Rimadyl to you. TDG gave a wonderful suggestion by advising you to see a holistic vet. I find conventional doctors and vets tend to treat the symptoms of disease without trying to help the body and immune system in getting stronger to fight the disease or problem. My mother who is in her later years suffers from horrible arthritis in her back and hands, well, every were in her body. Her doctor wrote her a few prescriptions for the problems. She decided not to go that route and saw a nutrionalist instead. She feels alot better. :wink:

[url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&cat=1936&articleid=2231[/url] The dog was 12 years old :o perhaps the old doll died of another age related disease. Heck, I work with a girl who was just diagnosed with skin cancer and was all set for the surgery. Thank goodness there was a specialist present, turns out it was a bug bite. I think doctors who do not do tests to determine exactly what the problem is are full of baloney. Obviously this vet is trying to pin some blame in the direction of one of his competeting vets. I would say that without testing you cannot know for sure it was rat poison. I would say the good doc took a guess ta ment of what the problem was without confirming with tests. What a jerk. Don't get yourself in a panic, just pass it off to your customer as there are many disorders which can cause the same symptoms, and why wasn't there testing done???

I am assuming you have had a complete physical done on this pup including a full blood panel, urinalysis etc. If it is submissive urination there is not much you can do. Do not scold the pup, just carry on. Alot of pups grow out of this behavior, some don't. They do not realize what they are doing, and in their language this is the ultimate sign of respect for the owner, glad we humans arent like that as it would suck to be a boss and have employee's peeing all over your shoes. I would make another appointment with the vet just to have another urninalysis done and have the vet palpilate the bladder.

Here is some thing for you to read as well [quote]To properly care for your dog's eyes, be sure to: Keep all hair out of your dog's eyes since scratches to the cornea (the clear membrane across the surface of the eye) can result from contact with hair. Trim the hair using only blunt-nosed scissors, cutting parallel to the edge of the eyelid. This is especially important where the skin folds near the eyes in breeds like Pekingese, Lhasa Apso, and Maltese. Keep eyes clear of mucus at all times. Infections are often caused by bacteria that overgrow on mucus. Use a sterile eyewash and/or eye wipes to keep eye area clean. Apply a protective ophthalmic ointment under the top lid to protect the eyes before bathing, facial cleanings, and insecticide treatment. Even 'tearless' shampoos can irritate if too much gets in the eyes or if it is not rinsed out soon enough. 'Tear staining' is a common problem with particular breeds of dogs (e.g., Poodles and Cocker Spaniels), and can get unsightly if not taken care of. Tears are bactericidal, which means they kill the bacteria that can cause infections of the eye. Normally, tears flow across the surface of the eye and quickly drain through the tear duct. This discoloration at the corners of the eyes is caused by normal tears that spill out and lay on the surrounding hair. For breeds that tend to have tear or saliva stains, you could clean hair in affected areas at least weekly with a tear stain remover product.[/quote]

here is a good article for you [quote]To properly care for your dog's eyes, be sure to: Keep all hair out of your dog's eyes since scratches to the cornea (the clear membrane across the surface of the eye) can result from contact with hair. Trim the hair using only blunt-nosed scissors, cutting parallel to the edge of the eyelid. This is especially important where the skin folds near the eyes in breeds like Pekingese, Lhasa Apso, and Maltese. Keep eyes clear of mucus at all times. Infections are often caused by bacteria that overgrow on mucus. Use a sterile eyewash and/or eye wipes to keep eye area clean. Apply a protective ophthalmic ointment under the top lid to protect the eyes before bathing, facial cleanings, and insecticide treatment. Even 'tearless' shampoos can irritate if too much gets in the eyes or if it is not rinsed out soon enough. 'Tear staining' is a common problem with particular breeds of dogs (e.g., Poodles and Cocker Spaniels), and can get unsightly if not taken care of. Tears are bactericidal, which means they kill the bacteria that can cause infections of the eye. Normally, tears flow across the surface of the eye and quickly drain through the tear duct. This discoloration at the corners of the eyes is caused by normal tears that spill out and lay on the surrounding hair. For breeds that tend to have tear or saliva stains, you could clean hair in affected areas at least weekly with a tear stain remover product.[/quote]

[quote]Do groomers use blow dryers? I've given Peanut a couple of baths, and try to blow him dry a little, because he gets the shivers even wrapped up in a towel and cuddled with me, but he doesn't like it at all[/quote] Yes, groomers use high velocity dryers, they usually will put the dryer on low speed and hand dry to pup/dog. It takes too long to leave a pup/dog in under a cage dryer, plus if you have a coat which may have a tendancy to curl it would be pointless to put the dog under a cage dryer. I am not saying that Yorkies coat curls, just that some breeds coat will curl. It also makes the process of grooming a whole lot faster. The idea of taking the pup to a grooming shop young is so the pup can spend small amounts of time in getting used to the athmoshere of a grooming shop. The groomer can also show you how to take care of the eye area and how to brush out your Yorkie properly. Remember, it won't be long until he has an adult coat. I myself would perfer to keep a Yorkie in a puppy trim, I find the long coat tends to tangle easily and its dreadful when out on walks, brings back half the forest on a small little dog :lol: With a long coated breed which will probably be in to be groomed every 3-4 months, its best to get them used to the groomer a little bit at a time. Little drop in's are great(call your groomer ahead of time :wink: ).

Desiree Francis, Your welcome :wink: The behavioral changes in our ageing dogs can be quite extreme at times. I found with one of my older dogs that her eye sight started getting weak and her hearing went. She startled easiely making her a little unpredictable at times. I read some where that its a good idea to give older dogs digestive enzymes in their food to help absorb nutrients. Some people also give their dogs probiotics which helps maintain normal bacteria in the dogs system.

This is a great site for people owned by older dogs. :wink: [url]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=1650[/url]

[quote]Also, anyone with a yorkie or other small, longhaired dog, when did you first get a grooming?[/quote] Its a good idea to get a young pup used to going to a groomer as early as possible. Perhaps have a groomer trim around your pups eyes, have them trim the pups nails. Then take the pup in weekly to have the groomer set him on the table and run a clipper beside him so the noise won't upset him. Then maybe schedule a bath the next week. Groomers appreciate it when you get your pup used to them.

Read this as well. What are the best methods for housebreaking a puppy? A. If your dog is going to live inside the home, and in America over 90% of our pets do, you are going to have to go through the housebreaking process unless you have grossly different hygienic standards than most. It is not hard, it need not be messy, and it need not be a struggle. It does not have to take a long time. Remember that it is a training issue and you will need to have more than casual input. It will take some of your time but the more involved you get, the shorter that span will be. The Rules Housebreaking Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it! Housebreaking Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know! Methods of housebreaking Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2). When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, housebreaking may take longer when this method is used. Crate Training: The second popular method of housebreaking involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances. During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time. Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on. Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does. Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a housebreaking method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life. Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal’'s urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal. Verbal cues Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better. Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside. When an 'accident' happens One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it. Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor. Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act. The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more. They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog." Housebreaking Rule Number One: If you don't catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it! In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With housebreaking this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a mistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up housebreaking. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom. We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. We assumed that would be the case and have no intention of charging for those services. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes. The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up "When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!" The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog. If you want housebreaking to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the housebreaking department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy. The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy's training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man's office. Feeding and housebreaking The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns. All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited. Spontaneous or submissive urination Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age. Summary Your new puppy is home and you have started the housebreaking process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with housebreaking can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.

I have found with dirty kennel dogs that scheduled walks work wonders. Some times dogs find that marking and leaving their scent on top of another scent is very gratifying. Some dogs look so forward to their scent marking and poop leaving hikes that they learn to hold themselves until its time to go. I put some of my dirty rescues on a schedule for their hikes so they got into a routine. It also had to be around a neighborhood where other dogs are leaving their marks so my dogs could mark on top. I never had much luck just expecting these dogs to learn to go in my yard. I also took them out quite often at first until they got used to looking forward to their marking hikes. Then I cut them back to 3 hikes a day. Let them sniff and stop alot during the walk, when they mark an area praise them. By the way, all of my dogs were spayed and nuetered so to mark and gossip with neighborhood dogs did not require and intact animal.

Tammy, The people I know with children suffering from ADD have a difficult time with the kids unless they are on med's. I am only speaking of what my aqaintences go through. Their children will rush up to any thing and have gotten them selves into quite a few messes. The teachers teaching the children have a hard time controlling them and the children have a very short attention span. This is just what people I know are going through. Yes, they are good parents, and no, they don't want them on med's. The doctors have confirmed that these children are suffering from ADD and have put them on med's which have too many side affects. Good for you that your child is well behaved. Some people are having a much more difficult time than you. Contrary to believe these parents are not using the term ADD as a crutch. All children are different, and so are dogs. If you had an out of control dog which you trained the same as my well behaved dog, would I blame you as the owner or perhaps that dog is just more difficult.