imported_Cassie

[quote]She has been in my yard but has only had contact with two of my dogs. How worried about my dogs should I be? Should I do anything other than the Frontline my dogs get to make sure they don't get ticks.[/quote] I myself wouldn't be too concerned about my dogs "catching" ticks from another dog. The only concern I would have is if a fully engorged female tick fell off and laid eggs in my house...now that would bother me. I have only heard of this happening to one person in my life. A client who has a long coated dog and did not know the dog was infested with ticks...I will give her the benefit of the doubt as it was a long coated breed. The first time she knew the dog had ticks was when she took it to the vet and they removed about 10...then she brought the dog to us to be groomed and we found about 5 fully engorged adult ticks...Yuk. Any way it turned out the lady had a tick infestation in her home and had to have her home fumagated. You can avoid tick infestations on your dogs by keeping them out of grasses and woods....this helps to reduce their exposure to ticks. But any animal outside can quite easily have a tick crawl on board. The once monthly topical treatment such as frontline would probably be a good idea to use on your dogs for prevention. As for removing ticks, you are killing them before putting them down the drain arent you??? I always put ticks I remove from dogs in a bottle full of alcohol to kill them before flushing them down the tolit. I want to make sure those suckers are dead :wink: flushing them down the tolit or letting them go down a drain is not going to kill them. we also use a little spoon like device called a "tick off" spoon to remove ticks. This ensures that we do not squeeze the little suckers bodies. Its very important not to squeeze their bodies as you don't want to force harmful bacteria into the dogs blood stream. the tick off spoon also ensures that you pull the tick out without jerking and it comes our steadily and directly outward...this also ensures that the tick is not accidently twisted out Another common mistake people make when removing ticks is by using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match, or alcohol...these methods will NOT cause the tick to 'back out.' In fact, these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound. And always clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a triple antibiotic ointment. If you remove alot of ticks, which it sounds as though you do, it might be a good idea to get one of these tick off spoons. I'll find out from my boss where she got them. It makes tick removal so much easier...and in my job where we come across ticks ALOT it makes our work so much quicker and easier. :wink: I have to agree with not liking maggots, ticks and other slimy creatures which think our dogs look quite scrumptious. :lol:

[quote]I'm kind of a rinse Nazi[/quote] At the grooming facility I work at we also are rinse Nazi's :lol: The worst thing is we do ALOT of big dogs such as Goldens and Newfoundland dogs...it seems to take forever to rinse off the Newf's. We rinse until the water running off the dog is clear. Then after we think we have the dog rinsed completely off, we go over it from head to toe once again. I also feel the dog completely over to feel for any "greasy" spots. We have a sheltie at our grooming shop which was experiencing all kinds of skin problems. The owner changed the dogs food to a hypo allergenic food, and she substitutes with her own home made diet. At the grooming shop we used oatmeal shampoo's, furstaid, etc etc. etc. we used all the "best" and natural products on this dog including a hemp shampoo which was VERY expensive. The owner of the Sheltie brought in a home made shampoo for us to try on her sheltie...it worked :o no more problems. Now with dogs with problem skin and sensitivity we use this shampoo with great success. Its worth a try. Heres the recipe 1/3 cup glycerin 1 cup palmolive dish soap 1 cup of white vinegar 1 quart of water It makes up quite a batch which will probably last you a long long time. :wink:

Take them both out on neutral territory and see how they get along. What you could do first is to find a ball field and let them meet with a fence in between them to see how they react. What I did with my Rottie (which is dog aggressive) when I first introduced her to my newest rescue Beau (Dobie mix) was to put a basket muzzle on my Rottie and I let them loose on neutral territory. When Athena did not put on any of her dominance stances and they had finished sniffing each other over then started to play...I took off the basket muzzle and took it from there. They have been best buddies ever since. I never worry about bringing any new dog home to my Newf's, they are so laid back they would accept ANY dog. The reason I did not introduce my Rottie to Beau through a fence is due to her being fence aggressive, this would have esculated her tension towards Beau and they may never have gotten along. I think its a joy to have 2 dogs, they keep each other occupied and they wear each other out. Just make sure they have their own "areas" to get away from each other. You should read up on resource guarding, practice the nothing is free in life policy, and take them both to obedience classes. You might want to take an experienced dog person along with you when you first introduce the dogs. This way they can watch the dogs body language to see how they are interacting. Good luck :wink:

For some breeds of dogs, dog aggression is unacceptable. For example Newfoundland dogs, my friend who breeds Newf's will not and has never put up with any sort of aggression from any of her Newf's. If she found out one of her Newf's was dog aggressive she would be the first one dragging that dog out of the home and putting it to sleep. Newfoundland dogs are the gentle giants of the dog kingdom and "some" breeders intend to keep it that way. From my Newfoundland dogs I do not expect nor want any offensive behavior from them towards other dogs. From other breeds I expect some dog aggression, for instance my Rottweiler. She gets along fine with all Newfoundland dogs including all of my freinds Newf's...I can put her out with my friends 5 bitches with no problems and they play...but, with other breeds of dogs she is very offensive towards them. I find it exhausting and not much fun. I love her to peices, but, I can't take her places such as dog parks or nature trails unless its with dogs she is familiar with and I know she gets along with. I would never choose a dog aggressive dog to live with. I don't find it much fun, I love interacting with other dog people and hiking with friends...but, Athena limits me in the people and dogs I can hang out with. A friend of mine who rescued an APBT is finding it to be lonely as well...his dog is VERY dog aggressive and the only dogs his dog can be around are my Newf's...he has no choice but to have me as his walking companion I have owned many breeds of dogs over the years including Standard Poodles, Dobies, Husky's, German Shepherds, many Newf's, Dalmations etc. and I have never experienced dog aggression to the extreme like I deal with from Athena. I don't believe she should be euthanized...but, I also believe that only a knowledgeable owner should have dog aggressive dog..it can be dangerous...especially when they are dog aggressive and have a high prey drive...very scary. I also wish people with dog aggressive dogs would let people who have to work with the dog know ahead of time :evil: I can't tell you how annoying it is to have a waiting room full of people with their dogs and cats and then have a customer walk in with a dog lunging at the other dogs and the owner barely has control :evil: I have asked these people to wait outside until I come to get them....they look at me as if I have grown 2 heads and then go and sit down beside another dog owner who abruptly gets up and walks outside. Some of these owners are rude, acting as if we are being prejudice against their dog because it is dog aggressive. I am only thinking of the other dogs safety. We already had a horrible accident happen a while ago where a women came in with her American Stafforshire Terrier; this dog had its CD and CDX obedience titles and its good citizenship title. The owner had the dog sitting beside her at the reception desk...another women came in with a small dog in her arms and came up to the counter. The Staff lunged at the owner with the small dog and grabbed the small dog by its legs. The owner of the Staff was the most surprised, and the owner of the small dog was shocked. The little dog required stitches in its legs....what a shame. So, I do expect some dog aggression from some breeds. I believe they should be handled by "experienced" dog people who never let their guard down. Dog aggressive dog owners should also try to find other places to take their dogs rather than a dog park etc. I go out of my way to take Athena to remote areas for her runs. If its impossible to avoid taking a dog aggressive dog to the local parks (city dwellers) then pick times such as early in the morning and late at night when no one else has there dogs there...be responsible.

Anyone who reads this had better be prepared for a long read :lol: Here is a link to a wealth of information for new puppy owners :wink: [url]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=1670[/url] Choosing a healthy puppy [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1670&articleid=841[/url] Basic puppy grooming [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1643&articleid=824[/url] [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1643&articleid=785[/url] House breaking [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1548&articleid=157[/url] Neutering: including information on early neuters (which can be done as early as 6 weeks of age) [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1625&articleid=911[/url] Early spays and neuters [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1625&articleid=903[/url] Spays and neuters, lots of information [url]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=1625[/url] [quote]What should puppies be introduced to and at what age? (like new things that can be scary for them) [/quote] It is very important to introduce a pup to many different items, noises, people (children, different races etc) before the critical period of socialization ends at about 12-16 weeks (depending on the breed.) Make sure every thing you introduce your pup to is done in a positive way and all situations are going to be "good" experiences. Some breeders take their pups to busy public places to get them used to traffic, noises, bike riders etc. You can mould your pup into a wonderful adult during the critical period of socialization and its a pity how many people don't know this. I have seen alot of fearful dogs which have been "created" due to not being socialized properly during the critical period. I have also seen alot of pups ruined by breeders keeping them too long as well....7 weeks of age is a good age to take a pup home before it forms too many "bad" habits at a breeders kennel. Its easier to form good pups rather than try to create a good pup from one that has already "learned" some bad or dirty habits. I have seen alot of breeders leave all the pups together and keep them with mom for as long as possible...then the pups get out into the "real" world at about 9-10 weeks of age and the critical period of socialization is almost over. I have seen these pups become fearful adults, or offensive towards things. [quote]What is the normal age for a dog to be potty-trained? Is there such a thing as too young for training? [/quote] Its great to get a pup so you can manage how the pup grows up. For example if during the first thunderstorm your pup gets upset, don't coddle the pup...start doing some thing fun with your pup so it will not associate the thunder as being scary. More fun things to do with pups and what I have done with the last 4 litters my boss has had...I play hide and seek with the pups while they are still very young. I play recall games with them...for instance I get on the other end of the exercise area and call the pup's...I get really excited and use an uppity tone of voice and call the pups to me. They then associate at an early age that coming to a person is fun and will bring happy things and perhaps treats and play :wink: of course their are some breeds that recalls are going to be a little bit more difficult when they reach maturity...I call then horizon dogs (husky's, hounds etc) 8) Training Training a pup not to pull on lead [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=1558[/url] Chewing how to direct and prevent puppy chewing [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=164[/url] Puppy biting and nipping- how to control it [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=163[/url] Collars and leads how to introduce them [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=816[/url] Basic training rules [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=173[/url] When should puppy training begin [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1547&articleid=175[/url] I also recommend the book called: Before you get your puppy by Ian Dunbar This is must for all puppy owners :wink: Another good book is After you get your puppy By Ian Dunbar as well.

HF, of course you should get the Canidae dog food at whole sale price :wink: heck, why would the Vet "let" you see the whole sale price and then charge you an arm and a leg...that IMO is considered teasing :wink: :lol: DogPaddle, yes I do watch body break...thats that 1 minute health program they air between other programs..is it the same one??? Any way, let me tell you a little story about commerial advertisers and big corporations...they are probably paying BIG bucks to have their dog food aired on TV even for that second of a minute. Even in movies and sitcoms if they happen to be drinking a cola with the product name showing such as Coke or Pepsi...that corporation is paying big bucks to have their product shown. Money is what influences people on such shows...even unfortunately body break...they probably received a big fat pay cheque to sponsor the product. Even with alot of dog breeders and dog shows they will be sponsored by big fat corporations such as Iams/Eukanuba...my friend who organizes dog shows depends greatly on Iams/Eukanuba to help her out...they provide prizes, tents, tables etc. etc. They even help my friend out when she is planning a litter. They send her puppy packages for the new puppy owners to take home with them including literature on caring for your puppy, puppy food, toys, towels with Iams written on them, treats, bandana with Iams written on it etc. the new puppy owners takes home their little packages which did not cost the new owner any thing. Some of the products provided to the new puppy owner will be displayed on the pup (such as the bandana) and Iams is receiving some cheap advertising...the same as at the dog shows...they provide their products, tents with their company name on it, squeeze toys with Iams written on it..viola, they have received some cheap advertising. Big corporate companies such as Purina and Iams/Eukanuba are so big they can afford to invest in big advertising scemes. Also at the vet clinic I work at they have representatives from science diet, medical and Iams coming to the vet clinic to have discussions with all the employee's and the vets about their products and why its so good for the customer's dogs. They also make it very easy to stock their product...I have also heard that some companies such as Iams will give a little extra to stores etc. which will display their product at eye level. Of course this is just what I heard so its not a cold hard fact :wink:

I just saw this post :o I just want to point out that very few types of aggressive behavior come under the influence of sex hormones released either by ovaries or testicles. With few exceptions, such as fighting between male dogs or the maternal instinct to defend the young, the hormonal exacerbation of most aggressiveness is minimal. Hormones cannot be blamed for every thing. Learning and opportunity can be even more important to a pet's tendency to behave in a certain way. In dogs, an individual's inborn temperament traits are shaped by experience as it interacts with the world. Pet owners must be aware of how their reactions shape the future actions of their pets. From an early age and from the moment a pet is introduced into our homes, dogs observe our responses and learn how to get attention or food, or perhaps how to avoid contact or punishment. Be aware of how every action will determine your dogs reaction, immediately and for a life time. It is up to the owner to implement desirable patterns to prevent behaviors that might otherwise could have been prevented. Neutering cannot undo what you have taught your pet to become or what you have allowed in behavior. If you expect neutering your pet will cure undesirable behaviors, you will be setting yourself up for dissappointment. Over the past 30 years I have had a multie dog house hold. I have had as many as 2 intact bitches and a couple of males around at one time with out any aggression problems. I currently have 1 intact bitch and 2 intact males living with me and my 2 spayed females and 1 neutered male (all of my dogs are around the same age). I do not have any problems with aggression. I have also taken my bitches and boys to my friends home who breed Newfoundland dogs...I have put my 6 dogs out to play with may of her intact females with no problems, they have a ball playing together. It all depends on how you bring them up, the rules you set down for them in the house hold...and the breeds you choose...some breeds are just going to be more dominant than others.

I am so sorry it had to come to this. :( At the Vet clinic I work at we will quantine a dog for 10 days due to a human bite for disease purposes (rabies). Where are they quantining her at? the shelter..? A dog is considered dangerous when it fights with other dogs and punctures or lacerates another dog, or bites a person who is trying to break up the fight...it is not normal for dog with good bite inhibition to break the skin of the dog they are fighting with or any human trying to break up a fight. Spaying would not have helped this situation. In my experience of working directly with dogs and owning many many unspayed females and spayed females with intact males etc. it has all been the up individual dog, the breed and how I treated them which decided if the dogs were going to get along well etc. I feel bad for your son being involved in this, and it could have been alot worse.

If you plan on keeping Patti and are willing to work through this I would advise you to consult the help of a certified animal behaviorist. You have a child to think. Rotties can be dominant breeds and you really need to have some one show you how to deal with this situation "correctly". I doubt very much this is a situation which will be "cured" by spaying. Spaying does little to lessen the tension between 2 bitches which are fighting. You have to make a change in the way you treat them etc. to deal with this situation. If you decide to keep Patti I would strongly suggest that you implicate the NIFIL policy as well. The NIFIL policy is short for "Nothing is free in life" this means that all of your dogs have to earn every thing they get. Sit before going outside, sit before being fed, sit before getting their favorite toy...etc. Every one in the family has to participate including your son. Here are a couple of articles you may find interesting to read...especially the second website as this is a letter written for advise on a situation very much like yours...spayed female vs unspayed female. Enjoy :wink: [url]http://www.asah.net/behavior_topics_15.htm[/url] [url]http://www.canismajor.com/dog/feisty.html[/url] Good luck :wink: I myself have worked through quite successfully many aggression issues with some of my rescue dogs including my Rottweiler. The only difference for myself working through these issues with my rescues is the fact that I did not have a child to worry about.

[quote]I want to keep her and rotate between the girls the porch. Is that possible[/quote] xavierandrea, the first thing you have to ask your self..is it worth it? especially bearing in mind that a mistake can happen very easily. You have a child, whose to say that being a child your son may decide some day that he wants his sisters to make up. Do you want to be on edge all of the time thinking of the what ifs? what if the time spent apart esculates the aggression between the bitches, what if one of the bitches gets out and they get in another fight...what if my son happens to get in the middle of the fight??? what if, what if... If you contact a Rottweiler rescue they will be able to deal with this situation and find a "good" home for Pattie. Keep in mind as well that people who get into breed rescue have a great love for their breed and are doing rescue as a love for their breed. You wouldn't have to worry about Pattie being in a cold lonely cell...the people with the rescue would ensure Pattie was well looked after and pampered. There are lots of people who would like to have an older dog rather than start out with a puppy...like me for instance, I have 6 dogs all adopted as adults. Sorry, I don't have room for Pattie :lol: :wink: As for spaying solving dominance issues. Spaying may stop the hormonal ups and downs every 6 months...but, its not going to stop any dominance issues or make your 2 females like each other. To tell the truth when my bitch comes into heat my 2 spayed females (Rottie & Newf) like her alot more than usual :lol: I also do not have any problems with dominance issues or bitch wars due to the breeds I own. Newfoundland dogs are specifically bred to be non dog aggressive and they are probably the least likely breed to be human aggressive as well. Don't feel bad about what you have to do. Perhaps you will even luck out and have some one adopt Pattie who will keep in touch with you. That would make it alot easier in the long run...and it would be alot easier to find some one willing to keep in touch through Rottie rescue than with a local shelter. I wouldn't suggest visiting Pattie as this may upset her...but, to keep in touch with the new owner will still make you feel a part of Patties life. :wink: As for Ro wanting to take care of this situation as soon as possible...just discuss with him that you want to do the "right" thing and get in touch with people who will make sure Pattie will find the right home. Shelters are usually short staffed and do not have the money to keep the dogs for very long...a high risk dog is more apt to be put down before others. A Rottie rescue raises funds to help take care of the Rotties they take in...they devote their energy, money and love into "their" breed...and they understand "their" breed alot better than some staff members at a local shelter...although I am sure there are lots of knowledgable shelter employees out there. :wink: [quote]She sleeps with him every night, she lets him dress her up and even stands in front of him when I'm talking to him.[/quote] This has me sitting her thinking that free may be associating your son as being lower on the totum pole than she. When my Rottie first started leaning against my legs when some one came to the house and standing between me and my guests...I put a stop to that. It may be cute, and may never lead to any thing...but, the posibility that some thing should happen is a little greater. Think of it this way, Free is possibly displaying some dominance gestures towards your son. The day may come when your son steps out of line in the heirachy of the house hold and Free may take it apon herself to put him in his place. Of course I am not there and I am only guessing at this as my Rottie started displaying this type of behavior towards me...I may be way off here...but, I would still be concerned. Do you practice the NIFIL policy with your dogs and allow your son to be the resource holder every once in awhile? This of course is just a thought and I could be wrong as I am not there I am only guessing. I just don't like the fact that a dog feels it has the right to guard a member of the family from other members of the family. Just because a dog allows a lower member in the house hold to do things to them does not necessary mean they are submitting to them. An adult dog is going to have much more patience with a young pup...but, once the pup steps too far out of line the adult dog will put the pup in its place. As I say, I may have read too much into that sentence of your post and I could be way off base here. So don't take offense, I am just concerned.

I live with a Rottie with a very high prey drive. It is very common for most of our dogs (all dogs have some level of predatory drive) to chase some thing which moves be it a cat, rabbit, bike riders, other dogs etc. What I have found works well for me is a good emergency "down" when my Rottie has spotted a prey item. I find if you yell at the dog and start running after them they "think" you are joining in on the pursuit :wink: With my Rottie when she is in the down position I am able to calmly walk up to her always from the side, never from a direct frontal approach , pat her and reward her for being so good and clip on her lead. This has saved me from alot of horrible situations which could have happened. Most dogs when in the heat of the moment and pursuing the prey object will not respond to a recall...and when you get exicited this raises the dogs excitement. If you find an emergency down doesnt work you could carry an item such as a ball or some other toy to throw in the opposite direction...hopefully your dog will chase that item instead of the prey object...or as a preventative be very observant on your walks, always walk in front of your dog and watch for prey objects when your dog is off lead or get a flexi lead for a little more freedom or find a nice big enclosed area such as a ball field...just make sure you clean up well, you wouldn't want any ball players sliding into a home pile. :lol: [quote]Then he went behind one of the sliding boards. A grey streak started moving away, and Web followed. I saw it was a cat and whistled, then yelled "Webster, NO!!" which he ignored. I tried throwing the leash on him to get his attention which sometiems works when he is being "deaf" (the leash is soft, it doesn't hurt! ) but he was too far away. So I started running after them, calling Web's name. Finally I heard Web bark, the cat had gotten up to a balcony and he was below. I went over to him, scolding, then grabbed his skin (quite roughly, I'm affraid ) and told him "bad dog", and leashed him and briskly walked home ignoring him. When we got home I didn't pay any attention to him either[/quote] I just want to explain that Web was not being a "bad" dog, nor was he purposely ignoring you. Predatory drive for a dog is a built in instinct which is much more powerful and strong than any thing else. The act of chasing a prey object is internally rewarding for a dog... it is not proper to punish them for doing some thing which comes naturally and driven by instinct. The cat was also acting on instinct, a small cat having a large fellow predator chasing it is going to run away its called survival :wink: a cat will fight back if it feels cornered or if its on home turf. Remember if you chase your dog when it is in predatory drift the dog assumes you are joining in on the chase. Try to train an emergency down, they will down before they will do a recall as they can still see the prey object...have you ever watched border collies working, when the owner whistles and has them clap, which is a down...you see the border collie get down but its still watching the prey object (sheep) and waiting for its next command. You have to learn to work "with" the predatory drive, not try to repress it. Find outlets for Web's predatory drive by playing games of fresbee or ball games with him, he would probably do great in agility. [quote]When we got home I didn't pay any attention to him either, I was too shook up. I'm still trembling, but Webby did come up to me and butted my arm with his nose so I have forgiven him[/quote] Web does not know that his predatory drive and chasing the cat upset you. All that Web knows is his owner is acting unpredictable and Web doesnt understand why...so he is trying to appease you. You dog does not associate a normal act such as chasing a prey object as being bad...he is associating you as being unpredictable and scary. Try to remember, Web is a dog not a human...he is dictated by dog instincts, the act of chasing is an instinct which you can work with and direct in the right type of activity ....but, you cannot expect to train this drive out of your dog :wink: As for cats running loose, I do agree that people should not allow their cats to roam at large...I built an outdoor kennel for my cats with a topper on it and in the kennel I put in a sand box, a few trees for them to climb and ledges etc. its big enough for them to run around and play and I don't have to worry about them bothering neighbors, killing the wild life and pooping in neighbors and my vegetable gardens. My parents live in an area where there are many cats running loose, they can not enjoy their bird feeder, they had to take it down as it was a suicide area for local birds, they got rid of their veggie garden as local cats were pooping in the garden..when you think of diseases such as toxoplasmia (sp?) it can be scary stuff. Good luck with web and remember redirect his predatory drive, don't try to punish hm for a natural instinct. My Rottie is doing wonderful since I taught her an emergency down when she sees a prey object...I always know when she has caught a scent or sees a prey object before I do as her ears prick up just slightly and she puts her head down a little to better catch the scent...this happens within seconds and its at this point I get her to down before she starts chasing. :wink:

TDG, I should have stated "sugar beet pulp". Here is a little info on sugar beet pulp [quote]Sugar beet pulp is a by-product of the sugar industry. It is added to some pet foods as a "filler" to slow down the transition of (rancid) animal fats which are essentially toxic waste. The body tries to expel these fats as quickly as possible and diarrhea is the most efffective way. Sugar Beet Pulp is used to hold this toxic waste in. [b]This may cause the feet to swell which in turn may cause the dog to lick its feet[/b]. [/quote] This information I obtained from my phamplet which came with my solid gold dog food. If this information is wrong then I do apologise for mentioning it.

Two of my Newfoundlands Gil and Cassie both have had ruptured anterier ligaments. With Cassie she is now a 9 years old and not suffering from any arthritis at all, I give her & Gil daily Glucosamine Chrondritin, MSM, and Yucca root I also give them vitamin C every other day. I also make sure they have plenty of omega 3 fatty acids in their diets from sources such as hemp oil, ground organic flax seeds, canned sardines and canned wild pacific salmon. Every few weeks I take my Newf's off Yucca root and give them boswellia or alfalfa instead. The most important thing right now is to make sure your dog has only short leash walks and to keep him from jumping.

I agree with TDG, a beagle is not a good apartment dog. I work at a boarding kennel and I always hear a list of complaints from my beagle owners the owners complain about the dogs digging, barking and howling and annoying neighbors, plus when they get a scent they are gone... I listen to their howling and barking the whole stay at the kennel :-? we have a couple of beagles which are wonderful...but, the chances of this happening are not good. A freind of mine lives beside a home which breeds hunting beagles...she is trying to sell her home as the dogs howling and barking is driving her insane. As for TDG's list, I'm sorry TDG :wink: but there are a couple of breeds on your list I think would make horrible apartment dogs...for one; the American Eskimo dog, I have so many of these little dogs come in for boarding and grooming, their bark is high pitched and very annoying...they are very yappy dogs and I don't think I have met a quiet one yet :lol: they can also be very snappy and dominant being a spitz breed. I give this information based only on my hands on experience (we have alot of these dogs come in for boarding and grooming), they are also high energy. After a day of having to deal with American eskimo dogs at the boarding kennel or at the grooming shop I have to take a few aspirins to ease my aching head..their barks are so sharp and peircing my ears ache for days after ward. Pomeranian's, at least the 50 or more of them I deal with each week I find are also yappy little dogs. The rest of TDG's list is great, I like whippets and Italian greyhounds and even at the Vet clinic and boarding facility I find them to be very quiet low key dogs. I have also heard from a few clients who have rescued racing greyhounds that they are also very good apartment dogs. They require a few good runs a day, but, since they are sprinters they are content to be couch potatoes for the remainder of the day. I also agree with TDG, that you can find the perfect match in an older rescue dog at your local shelter. :wink:

Free was "told" wasn't she. :wink: :lol: My cats won't back down from my dogs either. One of my Cats Sassy takes pleasure in eating slowly in front of my dogs...I occasionally throw peices of hamburg or cheese down on the floor for my 3 cats and 6 dogs..Sassy will wait until all the other animals finish their treat then she will slowly eat hers making the treat seem sooooooo much more tasty. Even my rescue Beau will not try to grab the treat...all 6 of my dogs sit there staring at my Sassy while drooling like crazy. Its a site to behold.

My Dobie mix Beau has done this a few times . All of my dog sleep with me, Athena on one side Beau on the other my 2 female Newfoundlands on the end of my bed and my2 male Newfs sleep together on the floor beside my bed. In the morning when my alarm clock goes off my dogs take this as a cue to wake up mom...Beau has made the mistake of standing right on my gut :-? and he is a 95lb dog (the smallest dog of my pack!)...not a great way to wake up :o :lol: Takes the wind right out of ya :lol: I can certainly emphasize with you starfox. :wink:

There are many reasons why a dog can develop chronic licking of the paws and lower legs. Some underlying causes for excessive licking include allergies, skin mites, fungal infections, arthritis, trauma, foreign bodies, tumors, and neurological disease. Some dogs develop excessive/chronic licking because it makes them feel good and eases boredom...the act of licking releases endorphins in the brain which provide a sense of well being which starts an itch-lick cycle. The best thing to do is to have your dog examined by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may ask you questions such as when the licking started, whether your dog licks all the time, only during certain seasons, or only when he is alone. The answers to these questions will help determine if there is an underlying cause. Your veterinarian may also recommend some tests, such as a skin scraping, a fungal culture, or a skin biopsy. You could try a change in diet first to rule out a food intolerance. Stay away from foods containing beet pulp (beet pulp is a cheap filler and has been known to cause excessive licking of the paws) Avoid any type of sugars (sugars can be listed as corn syrup, sucrose, and ammoniated glycyrrhizin) stay away from any foods containing artificial coloring, or preservatives such as BHA, BHT, Potassium sorbate, sodium nitrate, calcium propionate and especially ethoxyquin. There are probably others who can and will recommend some wonderful dog foods. With one of my Newfoundland dogs which suffers allergies I have had great success with medical hypoallerginic dog food and I supplement her diet with home cooked meals and raw foods. I also give her plenty of foods which contain omega 3 fatty acids which are great for dogs suffering allergies. I feed ground flax seeds (organic), hemp oil, organic flax oil, canned sardines and wild pacific salmon. Its also a good idea to give your dog live bio organic yogurt for the beneficial bacteria. I have also found that a herb called astragalus can help boost the immunity...I give it to my dogs, and I take it myself during cold and flu session :wink: my girl with allergies gets this herb daily with her food. You could also add echinacea to boost the dogs immune system, just don't give echinacea any longer than a couple of weeks. Good luck :wink:

This time of the year I HATE seeing Shepherds, Labs and husky's come in for boarding...they make the kennel look as though a few dogs exploded! :lol: I do find that with most of the Lab's and Shepherds due to the undercoat coming out the coat does take on a drab dull look. The undercoat is a much softer lighter shade than the outer coat. When you bath Coal do you brush him while he is lathered up? this is a wonderful way to get rid of all of that old coat with out making a mess, you also spend less time brushing the dogs coat out after ward. When Coal's coat is dry take a shedding blade to his coat, they work great. What I do is I take a high velocity dryer to Lab's coats and get rid of all the hard work :wink: :lol: of course unless you want to invest a few hundred dollars its probably not the most economical solution. :wink: Any thing containing omega 3 fatty acids are wonderful for a dogs skin and coat. You could try adding to Coal's diet some canned Sardines, Wild pacific Salmon (canned), ground organic flax seeds, or organic flax oil, hemp oil is a wonderful oil to add this oil has the balance of omega 3,6 and 9 fatty acids, you could also add evening primrose oil this is really great for dull drab coats and can be purchased in any store you buy supplements or herbs.

It is difficult when you have a missed the critical period of socialization with a pup. The social window usually closes at around 12-16 weeks for most pups. As for dealing with the fearfulness the pup is displaying, this can be improved...but, don't expect any miracles over night. I have owned many dogs which have gone from kennel living to my home as adults...they have displayed fear towards objects they were never introduced to as pups before the social window closed. Pups have a time frame up to about 16 weeks where they have no fears, during this period called the critical period of socialization a pup should be introduced to every thing it will deal with in the years to come. I have seen alot of breeders miss this critical period of socialization with litters of pups and all the pups turned out to be fearful/shy adults. I have a few suggestions for you. Join a good socialization class under an instructor or animal behaviorist who is going to help you desensitize your pup. Make sure they also only use positive training methods. When your new pup does display fear, as much as you want to hug the pup and give comfort...don't. :wink: make sure you are displaying confident body language and give your pup a good lead to follow. Read up on seperation anxiety and know what to expect, some times, not always, a fearful/ shy pup can display extreme anxiousness when left alone. When you start socializing your new fearful pup, try to make the first interactions "controlled" situations. For example be sure all the new dogs he meets are really friendly and will be good examples for the pup. If the pup is truly fearful/shy (and not just fearful by current surroundings) I would not go right out to a dog park etc. right away. The chances of meeting a dominant dog and then having your pup have to be defensive is not a good thing. I would take things slow, keep every thing controlled, and keep a positive attitude and do not comfort the pup or coddle him every time he gets upset...instead try to reward him every time he displays bravery :lol: if hes fearful of a certain object, get his favorite treats out and slowly give him small peices a little at a time while passing the feared object. A good book I suggest you pick up is called; "After you get your puppy" by Dr. Ian Dunbar. This book will help you with problems which arise after the puppy comes home. Good luck with your new pup :wink:

For your son's sake you are making the right choice. I agree with the others to seek out Rottweiler rescue clubs in your area...or perhaps contact your dogs orginal breeder and explain to him/her what is happening...most breeders are only too willing to take back one of their dogs and do their own temperment testing and find the "right" home. If you have lost touch with your breeder contact a local Rottie breeder and seek their advice. If it werent for your having children then perhaps you could take the time to work through this with a qualified animal behaviorist. Its just too risky when you have a child. Good luck,

I have owned Newfoundland dogs for the past 30 years. I have never chosen my breeds, my friends who are breeders chose me to have their breeds :lol: I have never paid for a dog in my life and have enjoyed having many different breeds of dogs. I have had Dalmations, Standard Poodles, doberman's, Great Pyrenees dogs, German Shepherd's, many many Newfoundland dogs. All of them given to me by breeders and their food, obedience classes and vet bills paid for for the life span of the dog...who wouldn't take them :lol: the only down fall is show season :( When I was a child we had a Shepherd/husky mix, border collie mix, a Great Dane, and Newfoundlands throughout my childhood. These were all great dogs and went every where with us kids from the beach to playing with our friends to over nights at friends homes. All of these dogs were well mannered and easy going...when I was a child my dogs were welcome every where I went and they were my childhood shadows (especially my border collie mix and husky/shepherd mix) they were all very well mannered dogs which turned out wonderful due to lots of socialization and basic training. My currenet dogs are a Dobie mix which was a malnourished stray I found running at large...I took him in and kept him as he needed me. I do have a certain spot in my heart for Dobie's, they are the most affectionate breed I have ever known...I have never met a Dobe that doesnt want to be near its human companion ( or shall I say touching its human companion) at all times. :wink: My Rottweiler was left tied in a back yard while her owner was in jail. The SPCA picked her up and found she would be a little too much dog for an average pet owner...so they asked me to take her. I do love Rottweilers, they are charming and full of fun and like my Dobe, Athena loves to be with me at all times. My current 4 Newfoundlands (and my past Newf's) were given to me by my friend who breeds Newf's. I don't think my world would be complete without a Newf in my home. They are the sweetest most loyal dogs I have ever owned. I love their sweet dispostion and the fact that they are very low key. I have never had to worry about my Newf's with any other dogs (my Newf's are the only dogs which a friend of mine with a dog aggressive pitbull can go for walks with) they have a soothing temperment which seems to calm high strung dogs down. With my Newf's I have helped many people at least try to socialize their dog aggressive dogs...for some reason other dogs do not find my Newf's to be a threat, be it their rolling walk etc. I will always own a Newf for thier charm, and easy going manners and their ability to be the peace makers of the dog world :wink: I love all breeds of dogs and any breed would fit into my life style. I take what is given to me and I take what needs me. :wink: I suppose my preferance is a Newf though :wink:

I am so sorry :( I have gone through cancer and lost one of my Newf's 2 years back. It is hard to watch your loved one suffer through some thing beyond your control. Make Appollo's last days happy, go to his favorite places etc. I have been reading up on a supplement called Artemisinin which is showing promise for treating cancer in humans and dogs. Here are some sites you can contact. Canine Cancer Research Professor Henry Lai, Ph.D., University of Washington, Seattle Phone: (206) 543-1071 [email]hlai@u.washington.edu[/email]. Kristen Kellar-Graney, Washington Cancer Institure, Washinton, DC Phone: (202) 877-3390 sarcoma.org. If you choose to use Artemisinin, work with your veterinarian in monitoring your dog's progress. I am not sure if it is effective for type of cancer Apollo has...but, its worth a try. For dogs with Cancer here is a guide line for diet. -All ingredients should be fresh, highly bioavailabe, easily digested, and highly palatable, with a good taste and smell. -Feed only organic foods such as fresh organic meats, either raw or cooked with organic veggies and some fruits. for veggies choose veggies such as broccoli and dark green leafy veggies such as spinach, cauliflower, cabbage, watercress, bok choy. -give fish oil supplements and flaxseed oil, you can also feed canned sardines, wild salmon etc. the fatty acids in fish have been linked to tumor inhibition and strengthening the immune system. -Vitamin C should be given with the fish oil supplement. -give digestive enzymes -Garlic in small amounts (a clove a day) there is evidence that garlic and its organic allyl sulfur components are effective inhibitors of the cancer process. -Safflower oil -Limited carbohydrates. you can check out companies such as Primal pet foods primalpetfoods.com Make every moment last...keep your positive attitude. That was one of the hardest things I went through was not crying every time I looked at my dog with cancer, I kept a positive happy attitude which my Newf picked up on...he was happy and active until the end.

newfiemom, It's strange how people could mistake a Newf for a sheepdog or a poodle...but, then again I had one vet tech argue with me about my Dobie mix Beau...she "told" me he was a Rhodesian Ridgeback :roll: I just didn't know what to say. First off, we do not have a heck of alot of Ridgebacks in our area..its rare to even see them at the shows in my area. It's funny how many Newf's we have come in for grooming which when they arrive turn out to be border collie mixs :lol: this really ticks the owner of the grooming facility off as she usually books off about 4 hours for a Newfoundland dog...the border collie only takes about 2 hours..and she brings in extra help for a Newf as she needs 2 people on one Newf to blow dry the dog.

If you click on to see the pictures of my Newf's...the first picture is not a Newf :lol: that is my Rottweiler "Athena"...you have to scroll down to the 2nd picture to see 3 of my Newf's then the last photo is of my boy Gil. :wink:

Here are some pictures of my 4 Newfoundland dogs. I had to have ellieangel post my pictures of my dogs as I don't have that skill :lol: I have never had any one ever mistake my Newf's for a poodle :lol: I have had them mistaken for black bears, but, never another breed of dog. My Newf's are not what the breed "should" look like. My Newf's have the big pumpkin head look which seems to be what the dog shows are looking for right now. [url]http://forum.dogomania.com/viewtopic.php?t=10718[/url]