imported_Cassie

[quote]One day, I was using Bonzai as a demonstration dog at a puppy class and a little puppy jumped in his face (he was trying to play) and my aussie snapped at him and that was the first time I saw him act like that with other dogs[/quote] Sounds like your dog is offensive towards other dogs...at the aggession seminar I attended the instruction did stress that some times a dog may be confronted by another dog and what may not seem that bad to us...may have had a very big impact on your Dog..perhaps redirecting your dogs attention will work for you...they also taught us other simple little exercises like "off" & "take it" and "Gentle" which teaches the dog to epen its mouth and thus relax the jaw. Tight jaw muscles result in harder bites...this can be used when introducing dog to any other dog...or person.. good luck and let me know how your progressing...sorry I have no other suggestions...the redirect attention did not work for me...I have alot of patience with my baby and try to work around it...but there still may be hope for you...try to find some other dogs that your dog gets along with (besides your other Aussie) perhaps if your dog has a few other friends like I have found for my dog, you can at least socialize him. and don't give up on obedience either...just make sure that all introductions with other dogs are side by side...not face to face.

Imagine living in Hawii, they have no mosquitos! lucky them. I live in Canada and we do not have heart worm in the area I live either. So I have never used Revolution myself (for my Dogs!)..but we do sell the product in the clinic I work at....we advise Customer's who may be travelling to put their dog on a heart worm preventative....and the Vets really seem to like Revolution. It's a topical treatment like advantage and its supposed to be a great product which is used for treatment & prevention of fleas (kills the adult fleas & prevents flea eggs from hatching for 1 month), treatment of ear mites, some internal parasites (although it may not kill all types of Roundworms, hookworms) and treatment of some mites (sarcoptic), controls infestations of ticks (American Dog Tick, it does not control Deer tick which is the carrier of Lyme disease) and of course it is used as a preventative for Heart worm...it can be given to heartworm positive pets to help prevent further infection while treating the adult heartworms.

When you find out how to get your dog over this...let me know! When you have a dominant dog its kinda difficult to make them stop what comes naturally...towards other dogs... its a different story when they try to dominant you....you can train a dog to be submissive to you.... I have a Rottweiler which is very dominant...when ever she is with the dogs I walk with (one of my freinds has a Shepherd mix, and the other has a Lab) she will not let one of them get out of line...she jumps on top of them if they try to get ahead of her on the trail..she purposely gets sticks and drops them in front of the other dogs and takes a hissy fit if they try to take it...she will even hump the males, oh yes...it is very embarressing when your female is humping another dog, and she does it very male like...even grabbing the skin on their neck and holding it in her mouth (never breaking the skin) this is very common behavior for a dominant bitch. The only dogs she does not try to dominant are my 3 Newfoundland dogs...she really respects them and backs off...even though they are not dominant them selves...and they just seem to go about business in their merry little way...I have never seen them try to dominant her..... very perplexing behavior at times...any way, I have attended aggression seminars and worked with animal behaviorist...what they suggested when my dog is barking and growling at another dog (oh yes, on lead she turns into a wild beast!) is to redirect her attention with a tasty morsel of food...it is supposed to be a reward for looking at you and stopping the barking...any way the technique has to be just right...because as far as I can tell I am giving it to her way to early and she thinks I'm rewarding her! Dogs have their own unique body language, a dominant dog meeting up with another dog that does not show submissive behavior right away will some times have to put the other dog into place...usually dogs will greet each other side by side...play bow is defenitey friendly body language, face to face confrontations are a sure bet of an aggressive response...another thing there is offensive behavior and there is also fearful behavior... offensive is when your dog feels it has to put the other dog in its place before it gets him/her, some dogs get very stressed when exposed to a situation with which it is not comfortable...I do remember the five F's if stressed..Fight, Flight, Fool around, Freeze, Faint. I'll try to dig up my paper work from the aggression seminars I attended (they were 2 years ago and I forget most of the lessons they taught us..) I can suggest some books for you to pick up.... The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson Excel-erated Learning by Dr. Pam Reid PhD Calming Signals by Turid Ruugas What I did, I avoid public parks where I am sure to meet up with other dogs, I have a group of friends with dogs that my dog actually gets along with and we walk in the country together (where no one else walks) I have Newfoundland dogs which I have used as buffers to stop a potential dog fight...honestly it has worked for me in the past....I tried to attend obedience with my Rottie...it was a nightmare...luckily I got my Sister to enroll one of the Newf's and we used the Newf to shield my Rottie from the other dogs. :wink:

What a shame it had to work out this way :cry:

You could possibly try out a doggy day care facility...the comfu sound plug in sounds like a good idea ...when I was a child... I got a new puppy... my mother had us put a clock (which has the tick tock sound) under the pups blanket...it worked for that pup....do you have any other animals in the house hold....I had a Newf which suffered from seration aniexty for only about 2 months ....I had just lost 2 Newfs within 2 months of each other :cry: one from bone cancer and the other from old age...she was the only one left of the 3 Newfs ... she started chewing at herself (aural lick dermatitis-which is also a stress related behavior problem)..she had chewed all the fur off one leg and she was miserable...I got 2 new dogs! another Newf and a (Rottie -which I rescued)...she was not happy being on her own and the other dogs play with her so much she doesnt have time to think about licking her leg any more! :lol: I also have an out door kennel which works for me...but may not be feasable for others... if you have neighbors and a dog that enjoys to bark constantly you may not be voted neighbor of the month! Elliangel has some great suggestions ...a good stuffed kong bone can keep a mind busy for quite awhile! also while you are home leave the crate open so your dog will go in on his own accord...let him start thinking of the crate as his den...and not a place of punishment, or the association of the crate with your leaving....encourage your dog to take a bone into the crate and chew on it...and I have always left music on or the TV...it seems to trick the dog into beleiving there is a human in the house (or maybe my dogs just like the sounds in the house)...or perhaps tape your own voice and leave it out...???

Call the SPCA and have them deal with this situation. Don't get your self into a situation that you cannot handle... At the Vet clinic I work at we have had alot of SPCA confisationed dogs left with us...some in worse shape than you could imagine...one dog had been starved and was dehydrated...it had scacoptic mange...and all kinds of disorders which would be too long a list to bore you with...the Vet brought that dog & 15 others (all from the same home) around...which she really didnt think she would be able to...the dog is her newest pet! and has been living with the vet for about 4 years now, she also saved a Pitbull which also lives with her and many many others (she has 9 dogs) :angel:

Good for Daisy, its such a releif when you have your dog spayed...no worry's about those bad bad boys! :lol: I currently have an unspayed female & unneutered Newf at home (and a spayed Newf & spayed Rottie) I have to send my bitch to breeders kennel when "that time comes around" It cost me $200.60 plus 15% tax per dog to have my Rottweiler & my Newf Spayed..it goes by weight at the clinic I go to....I had this done before I started working at the clinic! :evil: Where I work;the Vet's really lose alot of money when they spay or neuter a dog from the local Animal Rescue League..but, the low cost of the surgery promotes people to buy from the legue...and they have to pre-pay for the surgery which ensures they have it done.

You are right Courtnek, it would be best to treat with natural herbal remedies. I was also wondering if there have been any changes in your house hold which may have affected Luca? losing a pet, adding another pet or even if you started a new job....some Dogs are much more sensitive to change.

I'm just taking a stab and saying that your Dog is suffering from serperation anxiety...It is important for owners of dogs with separation anxiety to understand that the inappropriate behavior the dog is exhibiting is due to anxiety, and not because the dog is angry or trying to 'get back' at the owner. Scolding or punishing the dog will only lead to confusion, more anxiety, and worse behavior. By videotaping some dogs whose owners have punished the dog for his destructive behavior, they have demonstrated that the dog's anxiety level increases just before the owner would normally come home. In these cases, behaviorists feel the dog's problem behavior is not due to anxiety about being alone, but because the dog is anxious about the probable punishment it will receive when the owner returns. If you feel your dog has separation anxiety, the first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have the dog undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to make sure that your dog's behavior is truly due to separation anxiety and not to something else. (For instance, inappropriate urination may occur if your dog was never actually fully housetrained, or if he has a urinary tract infection. A dog may bark when alone because he feels he is protecting his property, or because he can hear another dog.) Your veterinarian may recommend some testing to make sure your dog does not have any underlying medical problems, which could contribute to behavior problems or make them worse. Tests may include a complete blood count, a chemistry profile, urinalysis, thyroid testing, a blood pressure check, and an ECG. These tests will also be important to verify the health status of your dog prior to being placed on any medication. Be sure that your veterinarian is aware of any other medication your dog is already taking, and any previous health problems. For dogs with separation anxiety, the most effective approach is usually a combination of behavior modification exercises and anti-anxiety medication. It is essential to realize that both medication and behavior modification exercises are important parts of therapy for dogs with separation anxiety. In most cases, using one component alone will not be sufficient to achieve success. The medication is used to help your dog relax so that she can concentrate on performing the behavior modification exercises; the exercises are what actually change the dog's response to a stressful situation, over time. Medications: Commonly used medications include clomipramine and amitriptyline, which can be prescribed by your veterinarian. Any anti-anxiety drug prescribed by your veterinarian needs to be given exactly as directed. Dogs with separation anxiety have a higher overall anxiety level, and drugs used as part of a treatment plan for separation anxiety need to be given regularly, not just when the dog seems anxious. Patience is important; it can take weeks to months for certain drugs to become effective. It is often necessary to try several drugs or combinations of drugs, to determine what will work best for an individual dog. Behavior modification: Your veterinarian may be able to give you help with the behavior modification exercises, or refer you to an experienced animal behaviorist or trainer in your area. For the best result, it is important that the person you work with has had experience working with dogs with separation anxiety. Behavior modification exercises must be done consistently (for weeks to months) to see results, and the exercises may need to be continued for life. Another component of behavior modification that may help your dog to be less anxious is increased exercise. Exercise has mental as well as physical benefits for dogs. Veterinary behaviorists often recommend 45-60 minutes of intense activity twice a day. If your dog is a 'couch potato,' start out slow and build up the intensity and length of time over several weeks. If your dog has any health problems, check with your veterinarian before starting the exercise program. In addition to exercise, mental stimulation (playing fetch, working on commands, practicing agility exercises at home or in a class) is also important. Many types of dogs were originally bred to do a job, and they can become stressed without the mental activity they would normally use if they were "working."

I would go to my local animal shelter and get a Dog which really needs a home. Most animal shelters are pretty good at matching an owner up with the right Dog or Puppy..if you get a full grown dog you don't have to go threw the evil puppy months... :lol: and you will know exactly the size your dog will be.

I think that is the mans name on GOOD DOG! :o Hes the guy who has the Nova Scotia Duck Toller & the Flat Coated Retreiver...next time you watch the show.. I think :roll: at the end of the program they give instructions on how to reach him. That way you can have some one see exactly what your dog is doing in the home place....he seems to be very good and he seems to [b]direct[/b] the dog instead of [b]make[/b] the dog do things...that is good training..make your baby wanna do what you want...and that way the dog will enjoy pleasing you!

I live quite close to Newfoundland, I think what really got this "Ban the Breeds" issue going was a recent attack in New Brunswick. A 4 year old boy was mauled to death by 3 Rottweilers, they tore out the little boys jugular...it was a horribe, horrible "accident"? The ambulance workers have had to go for counseling...within the same week a "Bull" breed as they described it bite a childs face (the child ended up in the hospital with undetermined injuries) this happened in Fredericton, NB...about 1 1/2 hours away from the Rottie accident. There have been many discussions about banning breeds in Canada but, nothing has been done...I think its the same all over the world right now. The last I heard was our Legislative stated that there will be no ban on breeds as it would be hard to enforce.....I don't see any worries about this Ban going through...I will check into it further...but as far as I know presently; Banning Breeds was not passed (denied)...and I was told that the legislative stated they would not be passing this law.

I was watching a show on TV called [b]Good Dog![/b] it is a Canadian show. The behaviorist on the show will go to your house to help you with "your" Dog. Perhaps you could contact the show and see if he will come out and help. I know he did one show in Nova Scotia which he would have had to travel to (I believe he resides in Ontario)...just a little suggestion...you & your dog also get to be stars for a day! It's usually on Sunday mornings...check out your TV guide and see if you get it in your area...it might be worth checking out. :wink:

I am a terrible one for making a BIG deal out of greeting my Dogs...in the winter I keep my Rottweiler in the house and I have a big kennel for my Newfoundlands (I have a baby barn set up with a partial wall and a heater- for winter) in the summer my Rottie stays out during the day with the Newf's (in the summer I have a fan set up in the baby barn to keep things cool) I first go to the house and greet my Rottie, then I go out and bring my Newf's in...I make all the weird noises and scratching of the belly. My Rottie does not jump on me when I come home (my Newf's do though) instead my Rottweiler has gotten this bad (but very cute) habit of pushing in between my legs (or whoever else) and standing under you (like she was a horse) so she can get her belly & chest rubbed....I have not had any problems with seperation aniexty...and my Rottie & Newf's seem to know when I am going to work and when I am off for the day and should be spending it with them! I think its the signals I unintentionally give off...when I have to go out...its all business...when I'm off for the day and am going out to meet a freind for coffee or shopping etc I think I give off a guilty signal...my Rottie especially (she is very in tune with me) she picks right up on my guilt and makes a big deal when I leave to have fun...work days she walks me to the door then turns around and goes back to bed (my bed) my Rottie has the run of the house when Im gone to work. My Newf's as long as they have bones to keep occupied seem very content in their kennel while I'm gone, they also have room to play in the kennel, cost me a fortune but I had a very big run built for my dogs..once I had to go in and wake them up to greet me!

It is called a Komondor, which has a corderd coat (the only color allowed is white so it will blend in with the sheep it guards)

I think Rosebud has a wonderful idea about flyball...I don't know much about flyball either...but it wouldnt hurt to check it out...you could even set up little courses in your back yard and run Hazel through agility courses of your own...Border Collies are very smart dogs...the more you can do to stimulate the dogs mind..the less destructive your dog will be. I know of a man with a sheep ranch he has Great Pyreness & Border Collies...his dogs are working dogs...I will try to get around to asking him what he suggests...I do remember once when I was up there that when he was not working his Border Collies he had them tied in a stall...I thought it was kinda cruel...but he said if the dogs could see the sheep they would kill them selves trying to herd all day. In my opinion, I don't think you are working with a Alpha problem...your dog was breed for a specific purpose...and unlike other breeds which may have alot of their breed purpose bred out of them for show...border collies have not suffered this diasater...they are kept true to the working standard. The more you try to dominant your dog and punish your dog for things that it was bred to do (eye-stalk,chase etc) the worse it will be...and the more confused your dog will be...establish new things to occupy your dogs mind...to fulfill your dogs set motor pattern. [b]The dog gets such pleasure out of performing its motor patten that it keeps looking for places to display it. The animal will search for the releaser of a motor pattern because it gets rewarded so luxuriously for performing.[/b] I have never owned a Border Collie (or a herding breed)..but I beleive their is some one on this board who owns and works Kelpie's..I hope she will see this post and reply to this....I just find that when you punish a dog for some thing that is internally set and bred into him/her...your fighting a lost cause....border Collies are smart, they do very well in obedience...but just because your dog does well in obedience does not mean that your are going to be able to train the dog to not do what it is meant to do. I have a Rottweiler with a very high drive to stalk & chase (they were orginally bred to drive cattle) she does very well in obedience etc...she will chase a ball til the cows come home :D little humer! but, I also realize that if some thing runs....she is going to chase them, and grab them....I can't punish her for some thing that is her set motor pattern...but, I do realize she is capable of this and I work around it...she will do the same with our cats if they come up to her and purr around her feet she licks them...but once they run...different story! Please seek the advice of some one who has border collies...as Rosebud advised their are all kinds of people who have sites on the internet who breed Border Collies...perhaps they can give you advice...your not dealing with a behavior "problem" you are dealing with a set behavior for the breed you have...and once you learn to work with it you will find a big difference...think of the fun you could have doing competitive agility with your dog! Hazel would probably go very far...

I am sorry :oops: I did not intend to insult you...it just upsets me when a family takes on a puppy or dog and leaves the rearing to a child...it never works unless every one in the family is involved....I have never read any of your prior post about Hazel...and 15 is not young...once again forgive me :cry: Any way, I was looking at your pictures of hazel on the beach...lovely dog! I did not realize you had a Border Collie/ herding dog (although I should have realized by the picture on your post..duh!)....this breed of dog (herding dogs) can be a behavior disaster if not trained properly for their breed (depending of course how strong their motor patterns are) I'd suggest you talk to some one who owns a border Collie/ herding dog...they can some times have behavior problems due to the fact that they need a Job to do....and a person who owns this breed may have all kinds of great suggestions. I was at a sheep farm once and he had Great Pyrenees dogs, they did not live with the family...they lived with the sheep! Most dog-training books are based on behaviorism, behaviorism is based on the assumption that dogs learn tasks because they seek an external reward, or, they are adversively conditioned to avoid unpleasant situations. With the working breeds...the dog is internally rewarded and the handler's job is basically to manipulate the dogs's location in such a way that the dog anticipates the performance of the pleasurable act....for any carnivore, eye-stalking, chasing biting, and killing are similarly their own reward for performance. This is an important point. The dog gets such pleasure out of performing its motor patten that it keeps looking for places to display it. The animal will search for the releaser of a motor pattern because it gets rewarded so luxuriously for performing. ...for an example when a dog chses a car it is probably not because they are stupid-but rather that the internal pleasure released by chasing a moving car is greater than the pain caused by some human screaming "NO" I would suggest you speak with some one with this breed of dog...as the motor pattern is different for a herding dog than other breeds. I beleive I heard one person mention before...that he would throw a ball into a corner his border collie's eye stalk-chase was so great once the ball stopped moving the Colle would crouch in front of it...and stay put!

I'm wondering how much exercise this dog is getting...I have never had a dog with this type of problem (although I have taken in dogs which had this problem with previous owners)...I keep my dogs very well exercised and they are obedience trained...they have plenty of toys (like a Kong bone filled with cream cheese or peanut butter, or treats, or a femur bone) to keep their over active minds busy... I had a neighbor with a Siberian Husky and Sheperd which were always getting loose and running away...the neighbors would go searching for them in their car (it was the only way they could catch them, by opening the car door) we took the dogs in and had no problems with them at all (we took them to obedience, did many recall exercises...etc)...the previous owners walked the dogs, but did'nt really give them the exercise the breeds required....perhaps if you have so much going on in your life, and where you are so young it may be better for Hazel to be placed in a new home with some one who can dedicate more time to her special needs...it sounds as though you are the only person willing to try to obedience train this dog...if you are the only one giving rules and every one else is letting her do whatever she wants...she may be a very confused and very bored dog. I would of course try the suggestions already made in this post..but, sad as it may be...some dogs are just not right for some people...and you may be surprised how well she adapts to a new home which can take proper care of her...If your dog ever attacked and harmed a child (or any one else) how would you feel..you already know you have a problem dog, which you are not handling very well...why jeapordize others... Another issue which concerns me is how old are you? you mentioned your family will not help you? all concerned should be training this dog and not just leaving it to one individual....I really hope you will hold off on getting another dog until you are older and have your own car...that way you can drive to obedience and not rely on others. I don't think any young person should have the responsibilty of raising a dog on their own...its a Life...not some thing to be used to learn responsibilty.

A 24 hour fast is often suggested for a Dog with Diarrhea...it gives the Dogs digestive tract a rest..then you can put them on bland food for a couple of days such as drained cooked hamburg with equal amounts of cooked rice....I have never been a fan of fasting a pup though. [b]But, I am with every one else[/b]. [b]you should take your pup to a Veterinarian [/b]& take in a fecal sample...the Vet will also take the pups temperature. Diarrhea could be an indication of a disease or serious illness such as Rotovirus, Infectious Enteritis, Coronavirus, Parvo, Coccidia, other parasites etc etc... You should try to observe your pup, so you can mention any other indications of illness...you mentioned your pup is still quite active...I would be very concerned if the pup were listless. My Dog has had bouts of diarrhea, I have always fasted her for 24 hours and then put her on bland foods. Some times it can be as simple as injesting some thing that is not on his/her regular diet such as milk (most dogs & cats are lactose intolerant), a dog which is upset can get diarrhea for example the dog was in a boarding facility, was in to be groomed or had a scary experience (in the dogs point of view) Good luck

I had the same problem with my Rottweiler, she would get an object and gaurd it! I got a good animal behaviorist and attended aggression seminars...what they had me do with her is teach her "off" & "take it" they had me hold a treat under my foot, show it to my dog and say "off' every time she lunged for it I would put my foot over the treat and say off...they had me do this until she stopped trying to get it (my dog was persistant and kept at it for 1/2 hour!!!) when she finally looked away or sat down...then I picked it up and handed it to her and said take it...my Rottie caught on real quick...I started doing this with her bones also, before I gave her a bone, or any treat I make her sit...or lay down...once she completes the desired task then I give her the bone...while she was in the middle of chewing a real juicy bone...I would come up and say "off" she would then stop chewing I would take it away, for a couple of seconds...then I would hold it and say take it...I found this helped me...but, then again all dogs are individuals and what worked for me may not work for you...the whole family has to take part in this training... Another thing I did with my Rottie, is before I fed her I made sure she saw me or whomever else was preparing her meal...I made a big deal of it..then I made her sit or lay down before giving the meal to her...she learned that the food wasnt just falling from the sky into her bowl. As for your dog stealing items from the house, you could try the "off" and just take it from the dog...and give him a bone or one of "his" toys in return. When you mentioned your dog goes under the table and guards, it sounds like he has made this his own personal den... I'm sure some one else will be able to offer you much better advice...My dog was a rescue dog also, and had every behavior problem going! she is great now, it took alot of patience and repetitive training...she was quick to catch on.... I wish you the best of luck, and hopefully you can find a great Behaviorist who can work with your dog as an individual...you are taking the right approach by contacting a trainer. Your dog has to learn that by giving up a personal item of yours he will get a better treat in return...and that food, treats and play are earned.

I have in the past used Metacam, which is simular to Rimadyl...when my Rottweiler was diagnosed with HD....I only gave it when she was in pain, but it can ruin the dogs liver over long term use. I now give my dog Yucca (you can purchase at most health food stores) which helps relieve inflamed joints in animals with arthritis and other rheumatiod diseases. It is also thought to aid in the assimilation of important minerals and vitamins by promoting increased passage of critical nutrients through the intestinal walls...I use the powdered root and use a very small amount, as too much can cause a reverse effect. I do use other supplements (Glucosamin/chondroitin for the HD).... my problem with pain killers such as Rimadyl & metacam besides the side effects is that they mask pain, and the dog will go back to the very same activivity that led to injury in the first place.

Science_doc, A book you would find very interesting is called "Dogs, A startling new understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior & Evolution" written by Raymond Coppinger and Lorna Coppinger...they basically have the same theory in which they beleive this modern emphasis on breeding has trapped our breeds in genetic isolation, and they state they would like to see our purebred dogs escape from these restraints. Alot of my Freinds breed dogs so I would'nt dare discuss this view with them...they are very closed minded about such things...I like to keep an open mind about such things, and have started reading the above book and I have learned some pretty interesting things about natural selection of dogs verses artificial selection and so on...get the book, your scientific mind will really enjoy it. I always thought mother nature was much better at the breeding game than when we humans interfer...

I feed all raw foods...raw beef, chicken, ox, lamb, heart, liver, eggs etc...I also feed all raw veggies which I blend up in my blender usually with flax seed oil or cod liver oil or wild salmon oil...I feed canned Sardines, canned Wild Salmon, some times makerel? sp and I some times put organic oats in her breakfast and I feed her Yoghurt some times plain sometimes with wild berries blended up and put in (blueberries, Strawberries, Raspberries, blackberries) in the summer my dogs eat these berries straight from the vines! I feed only organic foods (when I can find them!) and free range chickens...I go to a local butcher to get my other meats...I also supplement my Dogs diets with Alfalfa, and Kelp, vitamin C, vitamin E, Multi vitamin...the supplements I only give occasionally, I also grow green wheat grass for my babies to munch on...my babies have a very mixed variety of foods and they have never been so healthy...the best thing one of my Newf's had severe allergies constantly when I had her on kibble, she was miserable...that is a story of the past! no more allergies!

I agree the bitch should be spayed, there may be a small additional fee but not much, at a Vet clinic I worked at it was only about $16.50 extra. If your freind does not have the bitch spayed she may not see any changes in the bitch in the first 3 weeks. Some femals become more demanding for attention, their nipples may enlarge slightey, and some may become hungrier, these are not a guarantee of pregnancy, but are good signs. Bitches can show the same signs during "false Pregnancy" a hormonal abnormality which occurs after a bitch has been in heat. Other signs of pregnancy; a clear vaginal discharge may be seen into the 4th-5th week, Ultra sound is able to pick up fetal heartbeats at about 28 days into gestation. A Veterinarian may be able to palpate the uterus & feel the Fetuses at about 28 days into gestation - but this may not be possible for a large dog, or one that has pups under the rib cage. Pregnacy last for approximatley 63 days.

I definatley agree that neutering can help....I had an intact male and he did the same thing...he even peed on me once at a Dog show! he marked through out my house, he would hold his bladder, which dogs will do so they can distribute small amounts of urine. Neutering did help, but I still had to have alot of patience...Do you get a chance to take your dog out for a hike before settling for the night? this worked for me it helped that my dog had a chance to mark through out the "neighborhood" instead of in the house. He loved spreading his "charm" around. broaden your dogs horizons (or territory) so he doesnt have the need to mark through out your house...he'll want to distribute it else where and will possibly save it for his walk. This is only my advice, and I can't be sure exactly if it was the walks that stopped his indoor peeing or the neutering ( I did not crate my dog, but I did with hold water a few hours before bed time)....he still marks alot, but only on his walks, I have a spayed female who marks constantley on walks to....this is a Dogs way of communicating with others...of course I don't know what my dog was trying to say when he peed on my leg at the Dog show! LOL any way good luck, and if all else fails seek the advice of an animal behaviorist, your Vet should be able to recommend one. The other advice you received was great...crating, with holding water ...etc