imported_Cassie

[quote]I have to go on my soapbox for a minute. This person asked for help, and not a lecture. I understand how we all feel, myself included, about the overpopulation of dogs, but this person may not be as educated as we are, and may not have known when to expect this situation..... I just think that sometimes we are to fast to jump on questions like this. I don't mean to step on any toes, but just expressing my opinion. Cassie, I know you gave info, but that looks like a textbook answer, and I think it may be too much for some people. [/quote] [b]Quote by Daisysmom[/b] I am sorry every one for putting down too much info...I was just too lazy to answer and just copied and pasted a quote....I thought perhaps JANNAI would find it interesting....once again sorry... :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

I also cannot stress to you enough to have your dog spayed...her is some information for you: [quote]The heat or estrus cycle of the female is divided into four different stages. There is great variation in the length of these cycles among individuals of the same breeds and among various different breeds. Additionally, the same animal may have significant variations over the course of a lifetime. It is therefore impossible to talk about the cycling of bitches using exact dates or time periods. Proestrus: The first stage of a heat cycle is a preparatory period referred to as proestrus. This follows a period in which the reproductive system, was from all outward appearances, inactive. Proestrus typically lasts five to nine days. On the first day of proestrus, the vagina becomes swollen and a bloody discharge is soon observed. During this stage, males show an interest in the female, but she will be unreceptive to them. Internally, the eggs leave the surface of the ovaries and travel into the oviducts. Estrus: The next stage is referred to as estrus. This is the active breeding phase, and will usually last from five to nine days. Bleeding from the vagina is very slight or completely absent at this point. During estrus, males will definitely be attracted to and attempt to mate with the female. The female will allow them to mount her, resulting in intercourse. In the dog, a 'tie' usually occurs in which the male and female are held together physically, with the vagina tightly enclosed around the glans penis. Ejaculation will occur and sperm cells will enter the uterus and make their way to the oviduct, where their union with the egg will result in fertilization. A tie, however, is not necessary for conception to take place. The union of the egg and sperm results in the formation of a fertilized egg, which is referred to as a zygote. This matures further, developing into an embryo and then a fetus. Diestrus: Following estrus is the diestrus period. This extends from the time when the female dog is no longer receptive to the male to the end of pregnancy. In cycles in which a pregnancy did not occur, diestrus will last for a period of up to 80 days. In early diestrus, the embryos and their placentas attach to the wall of the uterus, from which they will derive their oxygen and nutrients. Anestrus: Following diestrus is anestrus. This is the quiescent period between heat cycles characterized by no outward physical or behavioral signs of sexuality[/quote]

Oh, the joy of owning [color=brown][size=6][b]mud dogs!!! [/b][/size][/color]

I am so sorry for all you have been through. It can be hard to deal with the rough parts of life... :cry: :cry: As for the ticks, with your new Vet it sounds as if things are under control. Just keep checking Rowie daily...keep up with the frontline...etc. [size=6][color=blue][b]Good Luck[/b][/color][/size]

I meant to say "now being shown in the states" not [quote]acutally he has already gotten his Canadian Championship and is not being shown in the states...then it will be off to Bermuda![/quote] [b]I really have to reread my posts before submitting!!!! [/b] :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

[url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1659&articleid=2612[/url] b]quote by Sanvean [/b] [quote]Some dogs just have that "too thin" look, especially when they're going through adolescence. (We have a husky mix in our rescue group that looks like a little coyote -- so cute! -- but she just looks positively emaciated, even though she's not.) If your vet thinks she's an appropriate weight, I wouldn't worry too much. [/quote] I agree with Sanvean, some people have dogs which are proper weight and think they are too skinny...depends on the breed of dog as well...and the age...all dogs go through that awful adolesant age, some breeds not as noticable as others...a friend of mine owns 2 Boxers...her female filled out at around 2 her other is still a pup (which is 12 months) and he looks positively anerexic! she is feeding him more frequently (about 3 meals a day) he will fill out...and yes, you can count all his ribs...my baby newfoundland at 13 months is also like this..harder to tell, but I can feel his ribs through all his fur...the breeder still shows him and has never said any thing to me about being under weight...acutally he has already gotten his Canadian Championship and is not being shown in the states...then it will be off to Bermuda!

It is thought that the act of licking causes the release of endorphins (chemical substances which provide a sense of well-being) in the dog's brain. The dog soon learns that licking brings about this pleasant feeling, and keeps on licking

I meant to mention also...if you have some one who can hold your dog while bathing this will be very helpful. Have that person also talk to your dog...I find the attitude you take with the dog before bath time can also be important...if you are happy about it and make it sound fun and like a game then your dog will be more apt to enjoy the experience...dogs pick up on your body language very easily...

gooeydog, another thing demodex canis mite is only spread by direct contact by mother to offspring...the pups or dogs which develop full blown Demodectic mange usually have poor immune systems...and older dogs which develop Demodectic mange usually have repressed immune systems...these mites are not spread by dirty kennels or dirty living quarters...this mite cannot survive off the host...the mites cannot be picked up by bedding which an infected pup was using.

[quote]Rosebud, I thought demodectic mange was the non-human contagious type.... at least that's what I've always been told. We've had several dogs come through here with it, and neither us people nor our dogs have ever had any problems[/quote] [b]Quote by gooeydog[/b] I hate to go answering questions not directed my way...but...gooeydog you are right. The various species of Demodex mites tend to infest only one species of host animal, i.e., Demodex canis infests dogs, Demodex bovis infests cattle, and Demodex folliculorum infests humans. these mites of [b]various species [/b]live on the bodies of virtually every adult dog and most human beings.... Papillons, I wish you the best of luck and follow you Vets orders and you should start to see results.

I hope colby makes out good, its sounds like hes had a pretty rough start to life...he is fortunate to have such a good mom. :wink:

Many dogs which love swimming in water do not enjoy having it sprayed on them...I'm just unsure what you meant by your dog used to love water...did your dog enjoy being bathed until this one time??? I bath dogs every day most which hate being bathed (thats one of my jobs :) ) we have a hose with a nozel which does not make any noise...if you used a hose or any thing that was really high pressure and makes a hissing noise, some dogs will freak out....we have a noose in our bath tub so the dogs cannot jump out etc. I usually run the water first and hold it so they can see the nozel with the water running, then bring it up slowly around the chest and back area..lather up really good then give a good massage that they will enjoy...keep talking to them the whole time and don't become stressed your self...the calmer you are the calmer the dog will be...keep talking to them...after the bath make sure you reward and praise for being such a good dog. Not alot of dogs ever enjoy a bath and some can be down right nasty about the whole thing... One other thing I have done is scratch the dogs chest the whole time its in the tub...this works for some...not alot! we also bath alot of Siberian Husky's...and I havent met one Husky which enjoyed a bath. Good Luck

Here is another good site with other toxic foods....its a web page with sub web pages to view... [url]http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=2&cat=1939[/url]

Here is a good web page with all the bad food for dogs....there are some things on the list which I'm sure no one would keep in their home!!!!! :o [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=0&cat=1276&articleid=1030[/url]

One thing that concerns me is that your dog possibly has sarcoptes mites, or severe allergies...and is being treated for both...I would definatley make an appointment to have your little Papillon looked over with possible blood work to be sure your baby is not anemic due to the onions and the lowered immunity levels at this time.

Here is a site that will help you, in my house my dogs have been given onions by other family members by mistake...nice hamburg off the BBQ with lots of onions fried on top...of course I have BIG dogs and they were not affected...garlic is also not supposed to be good to give to dogs according to most Vets...but alot of people recommend giving garlic to dogs to help boost immunity towards fleas etc...Onions & Garlic (raw, cooked or powder form) contain sulfoxides & disulfides which can cause anemia, cats are more susceptible than dogs..garlic is less toxic than onions. [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=1&cat=1935&articleid=2414[/url]

It is terrible, yet so hard to control animal abuse. I find in my area that the "country folk" are the worst....no neighbors to report them. My brother just built a home way out in the country...he found a garbage bag full of "live" puppies out in the woods one day as he was walking....their little eyes werent even open. He brought them to the clinic I work at and we were able to save them and place them in GOOD homes.... the Vet I work for has a very big heart, and she does work with the SPCA by taking in the horribly abused animals and bringing them back to good health then placing them in homes (she already has 10 dogs at home she rescued), we also had a dog come in last week picked up by the SPCA, left tied in the back yard with the chain rapped around its body...the chain was so tight it slashed through the dogs skin in several places...a neighbor reported it...the owners were aware of the dog in that helpless position also but left it like that for a few days. We had one old lady who lived in the country and people were dropping dogs & cats off at her house...she was senile but thought she was taking good care of them...they were all starving...many with very severe illnesses such as sarcoptic mange etc and were living on eating their own feces etc...she also had horses that were so starved they could not stand up...I could tell you much worse stories but it is too heart breaking. :( My mother said to me one day that it was really bad in her day growing up...there was no vet care at that time and no spay or neuter...she said she would try to gather all her kittens & puppies up and hide them before her father came with the bag to drown them...at that time it was the only way to get rid of an over abundance of animals...the cats would reproduce so quickly it was some thing at that time had to be done...very sad.

[quote]The best prevention is to not expose your dog to other dogs, especially young puppies. If this cannot be avoided, then proper vaccination is the next best option. Chances are that if your dog is regularly vaccinated with a standard 5-way or 7-way vaccine, he is already being protected against several of the agents causing tracheobronchitis, mainly parainfluenza and adenovirus. However, these vaccines alone rarely provide protection against contracting the disease, although they will help reduce the severity of the disease if the animal becomes infected. More commonly, for best protection, an intranasal vaccine containing both parainfluenza and Bordetella is used. Intranasal vaccines create localized immunity that greatly reduces the incidence of clinical signs and illness. There are several precautions and warnings that need to be observed pertaining to this vaccine. [b]Some dogs will develop mild signs similar to tracheobronchitis when given this vaccine[/b]. Very often, the symptoms will last for several days and the dog will recover without treatment. Dogs that are vaccinated can also shed the virus and cause other dogs to become mildly infected and show mild signs. This shedding usually lasts less than 72 hours. In addition, it takes up to 4 days after vaccination for dogs to develop protection. When you combine these facts, you will see why I strongly recommend that a dog not be given intranasal vaccine within 72 hours of coming into contact with other susceptible dogs. Do not give the vaccine the day before a dog show, boarding, etc. Try to give at least four days before contact with other dogs, and preferably 7 days. This way you will protect your dog from becoming infected by other dogs, and protect those dogs from becoming infected by yours. This vaccine is not without its problems. It is a very effective vaccine, but it must be used carefully and is generally only recommended for dogs that are at high risk. If your dog is not shown, boarded, or comes into contact with stray dogs, your dog is considered low risk.[/quote]

[quote]Can I get Sarcoptes from my pet? Yes, although when humans get Sarcoptes scabei from animals, the disease is generally self-limiting, causing only temporary itching. There is a human race of Sarcoptes, which is transmitted from person to person. This human race of sarcoptic mite causes a rash on the wrists, elbows, or between the fingers. In infants, the rash may appear on the head, neck, or body [/quote] Here is another article for you to read up on Scarcoptic Mange... [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1589&articleid=764h[/url] I also wanted to mention there is another type of mange called Demodectic Mange which is generally called Puppy Mange....these mites of various species live on the bodies of virtually every adult dog and most human beings. It is generally a disease of young dogs that have inadequate or poorly developed Immune systems or older dogs suffering from depressed immune systems. Once Demodectic mange is suspected, it can usually be confirmed by a skin scraping or biopsy, in which case, the mites can be seen with the aid of a microscope. They are too small to be seen with the naked eye. The adults appear as tiny, alligator-like mites. Remember that these mites are present in every dog, so by themselves, they do not constitute a diagnosis of mange. The mite must be coupled with the lesions for a diagnosis of mange to be made....with the skin scraping they would have been able to rule this mite out...and where Sarcoptes borrows into the skin of your dog/puppy they are generally harder or next to impossibe to diagnose. [quote]From what I am reading on the pet health web-sites Revolution has not been officially recognized to treat mange. I have given you a few links about this form of mange[/quote] [b]Quote by Rosebud[/b] Recently, a new product containing selamectin (Revolution) was released on the market. This product is a topical solution that is applied once a month and provides heartworm prevention, flea control, some tick protection and protection against Sarcoptic mange. I expect this product will be widely used in areas where Sarcoptic mange is a problem [b]Good Luck!!![/b]

Gees I made alot of spelling mistakes in my last post :oops: :oops: :oops: [quote]We always keep out Newf's feet trimmed, and even when I had my Border Collie mix and my Great Pyrenees we always kept the feet trimmed. There are some breeds such as the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel which due to breed standard for show the feet are left long...but that is only the other hair...we still trim the bottom of the paw. [/quote] it should be....but that is only the outer hair...

I have seen a dog come up lame due to excess hair matting between it's toes. When the dog came up lame it was at first a mystery..then the Vet checked between each of the toes it was so matted the air could not get in...it was red and raw and very very sore...poor dog. We always keep out Newf's feet trimmed, and even when I had my Border Collie mix and my Great Pyrenees we always kept the feet trimmed. There are some breeds such as the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel which due to breed standard for show the feet are left long...but that is only the other hair...we still trim the bottom of the paw. I only work as a bath blow dryer at the grooming shop...but, I can't recall the Siberian Husky's having alot of excess hair on their paws that come in???? and when ever I have gone to a show...not that I'm really looking that intently at the dogs feet...but, I've never noticed the paws of the Siberian Husky's or the Alaskan Malamutes having alot of fur on their feet...they always look pretty neat and tidy to me...

I also wanted to add, my dog has severe hip dysplasia...I currently have her on Shark Cartiledge (I used to use Gluc/Chron I am just trying this out..there is also a herb remedy called joint remedy for humans that alot of people swear by also I also giev her her MSM and Yucca for pain...the Yucca I take one capsole and open it up and just sprinkly a tiny tiny amount on her food...you don't want to over do it as it can have the reverse effects.

Buffered Aspirin is good to give to a dog with Arthritis...here is an article for your reveiw which gives other alternative forms of non-prescription methods of how to deal with Athritis and the older dog...good luck :) [url]http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1569&articleid=485[/url]

Wow :o Now thats a good dog owner!!!!! :wink:

At the dog grroming shop I work at we use bio groom, E-Z groom, Alexanders own (if you own a double coated breed its a miracle shampoo, rinses out like a dream) and a few other products... of course I know your Staff has a very short coat. We use oatmeal shampoo for sensitive skin and we have had great sucess...and we have other shampoos for sensitive skin which I cannot recall the brand names of...a good quality dog shampoo is very expensive but also concentrated so you can mix it with water and a little goes along way. We also order oatmeal conditioner and mix some in a spray bottle with water and spray a little over the dog after the shampoo and brush through the coat then rinse...really give a shiny coat. She also has a really nice dog tearless shampoo, we use this seperately on the dogs face...it is also for sensitive skin.