imported_Cassie

The Newfoundland dog breeder I work for recently took back and destroyed a Newf which displayed some food aggression. A Newf (at least the ones my friends breeds) should NEVER show any sort of aggression be it food or other and they should NEVER ever show any sort of human aggression. For a Newf food aggression is unacceptable. The Newf that was destroyed growled at a toddler (which by the way was allowed to maul the dog while it ate :roll: ). The Newf did not go past a warning growl but that was enough for it to be deemed dangerous and destroyed...BTW the breeder did take the dog back to evaluate before putting down. In a shelter situation I feel it is a necessity to evaluate a dog for any sort of aggression before adopting out. There are many people, even those who "think" they know a lot about dogs who can make mistakes while owning such a dog...why take such a chance? the only way I would consider adopting out such a dog would to have a reputable dog owner who understands and is willing to rehabilitate the dog. I myself adopted a Rottweiler that was aggressive in many aspects when I rescued her. She was going to be euthanized due to her problems, before they did so they asked me if I would take her. I did, I rehabilitated her and kept her. Do I think I could have rehabilitated her and placed her in a new home...no I don't. Placed in a new situation with new owners she may have displayed more behavioral problems. Just to add, I own 5 dogs (had 6...2 of them being intact males and one intact female) all of these dogs came from kennel situations and my Dobie was a starved malnourished stray I picked up on the side of the road. All of my dogs eat side by side with no issues. There are no warning growls etc. and these are all dogs which COULD have been very food aggressive in the wrong home. So to sum up, shelters do what they have to do. They are over crowded enough as it is...its best to weed out the problem dogs which may pose a threat to humans. Food aggression in the right or shall I say wrong circumstance can turn out to be dangerous especially to a child. Any sort of aggression be it food etc. and children do not mix.

[quote]Cassie, I would have to disagree with you about our modern-day purebreds being artificial and recent developments. The Norwegian Elkhound has remained for all intents and purposes, unchanged for six thousand years.[/quote] pyrless, The Norwegian Elkhound descended from spitz-type dogs. Think of all the spitz breeds that resemble the Norwegian Elkhound, the Norwegian Buhund, Norrbottenspets even Pomeranian's come from spitz type dogs....there are many many breeds and mongrels which are spitz type dogs. It

This claim is false. Her NAIDs and the NAIDs of the other breeders [b]are a random mix of various breeds of dogs, and they have no real standard in either looks or temperament. In reality, they are just mutts.[/b] This I find very funny. You do realize ALL of our current purebreds come from mixed breed lineages. Our current purebreds have not been around that long. Our purebreds come from mongrels or races of dogs, humans saw some cute ones, or dogs which displayed a behavior they liked...took them in and started breeding them. To create a purebred dog all you have to do is inbreed mixed breeds of crossbreeds for a few generations. This will set a standard look and motor pattern (shaped behaviors). If you notice her NAIDS and the [b]NAIDS of other breeders differ quite drastically in appearance, which is not something you would see in a dog breed that was a pure breed.[/b] This is why purebred breeding is so unhealthy. To keep a dog in a artificial man made purebreed also creates genetic diseases. [quote]In fact, the Indians themselves didn't even have a pure breed of dog. Theirs were also mixed dogs. With the arrival of the Europeans, these dogs became interbred with dogs from Europe and other countries. Because the dogs were never a pure bred dog, and because no one bothered to study into them much, it would be impossible to "recreate" them[/quote]. Inbreed the dogs for a few generations and you can create what ever purebred you want. Seijun, you do realize that our purebreds are artifical and man made. There are some natural dogs in the world which could be considered natural purebreeds...but, they do not include our current purebreds. Some of the oldest natural breeds in the world are considered just mongrels. There are a lot of them on the island of Pemba which some biologists have been studying...they are a natural breed. Dogs evolved to be races or mongrels..they evolved to adapt to their natural environment. Man took from these mongrels to create our current purebreeds.

[quote]have you tried the innova evo yet? my dog goes crazy for it, i use it as treats[/quote] No, my local representative did not have any in stock. I don't know if she has any on order. I will ask her, I would love to try it.

I agree with 73junebugz, work first as a bath/blow dryer then attend grooming school. Work for other groomers for the first few years until you learn all the tricks of the trade. I know of a few groomers who went directly from school to owning their own shop. They have old fashioned techniques. A grooming school can only teach you so much. One more thing I will add. Doing anal glands at the grooming facility is a blast from the past. As we learn more about anal glands and diet etc. we have learned that groomers poking around and squeezing anal glands are creating more problems and scarring. Its best to recommend a dog owner to go to a vet if they are experiencing scooting etc. There are only a few breeds we will give a light little squeeze to before putting in the bath tub, only because we don't want them blowing them after the bath :wink: Its a pet peeve of mine when some groomers squeeze the glands on every dog that comes in the door. If some one squeezed my dogs glands I would be ticked off and really upset. If your going to squeeze it should be only on the request of the owner...and then don't start squeezing the life out of the dog, just give a gentle squeeze so you don't build up scar tissue and create a problem. The groomer I work for has been grooming for almost 30 years. She started out by first working as an obedience instructor, handler etc. She then went to grooming school. She then went on to work for an established groomer whom she learned ALOT of wonderful techniques from. She then moved to Ottawa and worked for a grooming facility up there, they also competed in grooming competitions. They had my boss get her National certified master groomer in all groups then they encouraged her to compete...she did really well in competitions and competed from New York to Toronto. She also started going to seminars to learn "new" things. You always want to be learning and growing your knowledge...you can never know enough. She has now been set up her in my neck of the woods for the past 15 years. She still goes to seminars all over Canada and the States...a lot of groomers feel as though they get to a safe level of knowledge then stop learning new things. The groomer I work for also does many show trims. The only problem with doing show trims, if the dog is dumped the owner will blame the groomer :lol: on the other hand if the dog is winning you are a grooming goddess. :lol:

DivineOblivion19, Here is a little write up about Tripe from one of the websites provided by TDG. BTW, thank you for all the links TDG. I started to read the first one. I think it would be worth my while to order some. [quote]I am sure you are thinking, "...what is Green Tripe and why devote a whole website to it?". The answer to that is simple, because it is the best, most natural food you could feed your K9 friend. It has been a well known secret of top breeders/kennels of performance dogs for years. The following excerpt from Juliette de Bairacli Levy's book, The Complete Herbal Book for the Dog, says it best: "I would suggest breeders make good use of such flesh foods as the following:...paunches of all animals (the raw, uncleaned paunches of healthy grass-fed animals can be fed with much benefit to all breeds of dogs). I learned this from a gypsy in the Forest of Dean: this man had bred many famous greyhounds, and he told me that such fare was the finest of natural food tonics." Tripe is the stomach of ruminating animals. These animals (i.e. cattle, buffalo, sheep, deer, goats, antelope, etc.) are classified as being four-footed, hooved, cud chewing mamals with a stomach that consists of four chambers. The four chambers of such a stomach are known as the rumen, reticulum, omasum and the abomasum. The food the animal eats (i.e. grass, hay) is swallowed unchewed and passes into the rumen and reticulum where it is then regurgitated, chewed and mixed with saliva. It is again swallowed and then passed through the reticulum and omasum into the abomasum, where it is then further broken down by the gastric juices, amino acids and other digestive enzymes. Yummy! So how can something so disgusting, be so good? These same gastric juices and enzymes not only aid the animal in digestion, but also aid the dog in digesting and efficiently utilizing his food. The amino acids are necessary for muscular development and, the other gastric juices, I believe, are the best cleaner for their teeth! In an analysis of a sample of green tripe by a Woodson-Tenant Lab in Atlanta, Georgia, it was discovered that the calcium:phosphorous ratio is 1:1, the overall pH is on the acidic side which is better for digestion, protein is 15.1, fat 11.7 and it contained the essential fatty acids, Linoleic and Linolenic, in their recommended proportions. Also discovered, was the presence of Lactic Acid Bacteria. Lactic Acid Bacteria, also known as Lactobacillus Acidophilus, is the good intestinal bacteria. It is the main ingredient in probiotics. Finally, because of it

Thank you so much for the information. I really appreciate your telling me about Solid Gold and Wellness. I didn't realize that Wellness has sold out :o . I do find Innova to be better priced than Solid Gold and Wellness. I did read some where perhaps on the website for Innova that they will only sell to small representatives as they don't like the way that big corporations will mass store bags of food. I will continue to rotate my dogs food, I will probably now just stick to Innova, home prepared meals. One of my Newf's suffers allergies and only does well on hypo allergenic foods and raw. I did buy her a bag of California Natural to switch her from the vet brand of Hypo food.

HF, my local Solid Gold distributer just started stacking it on their shelves. I was so excited :lol: I bought a few cans just to try out. For some reason I cannot find tripe at the local grocer or the butcher I go to. I am just curious if it contains all of the same benefits as the "real" tripe. It contains: Green Beef Tripe, Beef Broth, Potato, Potassium Chloride, Dicalcium Phosphate, Garlic, choline Chloride, DL-Methionine, A-Tocopherol, Vitamin E supplement, Zinc, Amino Acid Complex, Iron Amino Acid Complex, Copper Amino Acid Complex, Manganese Amino Acid Complex, Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Vitamin D Supplement, Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Selenomethionine, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate. I was also curious if Tripe is some thing which should be fed a few times a week or perhaps a few times a month? I don't want to over do it. This Tripe would not be very good for the chewing benefit. It is canned and looks just like a canned dog food. The only difference is the smell :-? Its no wonder my dogs go crazy as soon as I open the can, if it smells bad my dogs will either want to eat it or roll in it :lol:

I am just curious about this. We have a local person selling these 2 brands of dog foods. She told me they are the best. I did buy a few bags along with a few cans. I still feed my dog's Solid Gold and Wellness...I like to rotate their foods every few months. I also feed raw every few days and other home prepared meals. The women who is selling the Innova & California Naturals told me it really isn't a good idea to rotate foods :o She said I should start on Innova as it is the best food and stick with it as changing foods is not good for a dog. I guess its just my own personal feelings :wink: but, I don't think its good to feed the same thing day after day after day. I like a variety in my dogs diets. I guess this just turned me off a little. So, my question is. Is Innova better than Wellness and Solid Gold? I am getting so tired of the competition of dog food competitors that I am almost to the point of a total raw diet.....almost :oops: It does get a little costly trying to feed 5 dog's...3 of them being Newfoundland dogs and a Rottie and Dobie. The kibble does save me a lot of money to feed in between raw meals. My boss at the grooming shop said that California Natural is the best for a dog with allergies. I do have to agree with that, in my line of work we have recommended this food to many of our long suffering customer's and have witnessed wonderful results.

I recently just bought a few cans of Green Cow tripe made by Solid Gold. Has any one here used it, what are you opinions on this product. Just to add, it smells HORRIBLE!

Courtnek, you are very fortunate to have your girls. I would have been scared to death. I am ashamed to say this.. but, where I live in the Maritimes of Canada I hear all kinds of horror stories about the big city life in the States :oops: the way I picture cities like Detroit and Chicago are people walking around with guns and shooting people who look at them the wrong way. Of course we live in a somewhat cocoon here in the Maritimes. In my area every body knows every one and I have partied with the local drug dealers and cops at the same time. :lol: Speaking of break ins a friend of mine was broken into last week; every thing of value was gone. They found their Shar-Pei hiding in the master bedroom when they got home :lol: I guess this was one instance where a dog was not the best choice for home alarm systems :lol: I had an experience years ago while driving my little pickup truck with my Doberman Heidi. She always lay across the bunk seat with her head on my lap. I stopped at a red light when a man (quite horrid looking obviously a druggie) ran up to my truck and opened my door with the intention of jumping in. That

It is very amazing at what we are capable of in extreme circumstances. I read once before of a lady who lifted a car off her child who was pinned underneath: o Any one here would have done the same for their dogs if the situation had been theirs. :wink: You think you would panic, but, its as if a calm comes over you at a certain point, time freezes while you try to figure out a plan. :wink: HF, you would be surprised at how many of my dog breeder friend

They make a lovely team, don't they :D coming from a Rottie owner this may be a little biased. :D I have a genuine dog sled for my dogs as well. I will get a picture of them hooked up this winter. Maybe I'll call the Rottie owner and see if she wants to race :lol: I have never had them hooked up to a sled before, so this could prove to be quite interesting. :lol: I got my sled for free; it

This happened yesterday on our walk. He is fine and not hurt. First before every one thinks I am a horrible dog owner I will explain how it happened. I just moved into a new house the first of October, It is farther out in the country and I am 10 minutes from the ocean. The ocean frontage is mainly virgin forest and very difficult to get down to the beach. Any way, I prefer to walk on the ocean shore. It is deer season which means you can't walk in the woods. On my way to my favorite hiking spot I stopped to talk to a neighbor. I asked him if he knew of any better hiking areas which lead to the oceanfront (I love walking on along the coastline). So, he said just drive about 5 miles and you will see a little path, drive down there and park your car and there is a little path which will lead you to the beach. So, I drive and see a little tiny path way, park my truck and proceed to walk...there wasn't much of a path just a cow path, then it just turned to brush. I knew the ocean was close and I started plowing through the brush to find the path that I knew must be there...all of a sudden the brush ended and there was a cliff, a drop off about 9 stories high. I just stopped in time, Athena, Cassie, Dilon and Tori sensed that some thing wasn't right and stopped short...but, poor little Beau and his attitude of leap before you look just kept going. Of course, this happened within seconds. It seems I just stopped short from falling over myself and then I just caught Beau going. There was absolutely nothing I could do. Luckily there was a ledge he landed on...he would have either been killed or broken every bone in his body if it were not for this ledge. I tried to reach down to grab him but he was out of my reach. Poor Beau was even trying to get up to me. I told him to sit and stay, as the surface was rock and some shale, which breaks away under pressure. I finally had to leave him there put all my dogs in my truck and drive down the road. I found the trail the man was telling me about at this point..a very obvious trail to the beach :roll: Any way I let all the dogs out and we ran down the beach to where Beau was trapped. It looked impossible, I debated weather I should go to a neighbor

People who have fenced in areas for their dogs do get lazy. I have 16 acres of land and a huge fenced in area. I still take my dogs for 3 hikes a day, that way I know they are getting exercised. It

Scrooll to the bottom of the page. It's quite cute. (Pumpkin, do you think they could compete with the Alaskan Husky's :lol: ) [url]http://members.tripod.com/~steinplatz/index_2.html[/url]

Yes, Coyotes will pack when taking down big game. But, mainly they live a solitary life. The reason the biologists believe the Coyotes in our area are hybrids is due to the fact they are much larger than western coyotes-and they only started appearing in 1963. Also like wolves these Coyotes in Eastern Canada do not sweat through their footpads.

I have never had to threaten any of my dogs. They are much to eager to please me, if there is a time when they are reluctant to do some thing...I give them reason to want to do it. I use a lot of positive's in my dogs lives, works well for me. :wink:

Ive been called a cow before :o :lol:

With my dogs its an opportunity to bombard owner when they fall down in deep snow :lol: My dogs love to stalk me in fun and my Rottie will stalk me and the other dogs. They love the slow amble I am forced to walk and it makes me look more like a play mate to my Newf's and Beau and prey to my Rottie Athena.

Another good use for dog hair is Coyote repellent :wink: I was told this the other day by a friend of mine who owns a ranch. I have a pack of Coyotes in my back woods. (I know normally they don't pack..but here in Eastern Canada we have a large Coyote which biologists believe are a grey wolf eastern Canadian Hybrid.). Any way, the yipping and noise they make is unbelievable it sounds like a big pack out there :-? Plus it has been driving my dogs insane. This gentleman told me that you can take human hair or dog hair and sprinkle it around the boundaries of your property...he swears it will keep them away. It also makes sense, they are not stupid and usually will steer clear of humans or dogs. I'll let you know how it works :wink:

We had a "reputable" breeder in my area breed his 9 year old Newfoundland dog. This gentleman was a Vet and showed his dogs as well. Of course we all thought he was crazy. His old bitch made out fine with the litter and lived a few more years after that.

I just finished grooming 2 German Shepherds this morning. Yes, I do get a lot of coat out of them. I know it sounds kinds sick, but, when using the high velocity dryer on them I almost enjoy watching the clumps of coat come out :oops: weird on my part, but, almost hypnotic on the other hand. At least they don't come in with mats dread locks like many other breeds that come in :evil:

There are a few calming herbs you may want to try including rescue remedy, Skullcap, Passionflower. Give approximately 1 hour before your dog has to face her fears. Also read the following article. This may give you some ideas :wink: There is no "cure" for noise phobia, but there are ways to try to reduce the fear. First, refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification. Administer medications: Medications may be given individually or in combination. In some instances, the medication may be administered during an entire thunderstorm season. Others may be given when a storm or noisy event (Fourth of July fireworks) is expected. A common protocol is to give amitriptyline during the storm season, and valium when a storm is predicted. The valium or other quick-acting medication needs to be given prior to the development of any behavioral or physical signs of anxiety. If there is a chance of a storm predicted for the afternoon, the pet should start receiving the valium or similar medication in the morning. Pets who also exhibit separation anxiety may need a different combination of medications. Several combinations may need to be tried before the optimum regimen for a particular animal is determined. Many of the medications that would be used on a daily basis, e.g.; Amitriptyline, Prozac, and Buspirone, may take 3-4 weeks to see an effect. Examples of medications used include:  Alprazolam (Xanax)  Amitriptyline (Elavil)  Buspirone (Buspar)  Clomipramine (Clomicalm)  Clorazepate (Tranxene)  Diazepam (Valium)  Fluoxetine (Prozac)  Inderal  Paroxetine (Paxil)  Tranxene-SD Alternative therapies have also been used with some success. These include melatonin and flower essences such as Rescue Remedy. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the storm or other fear-producing event. Change environment: By changing the environment of the animal during the storm or noise, the anxiety level can be reduced. Changing the environment may reduce the volume level of the sound or help make the pet less aware of it. Increase vigorous exercise: The pet should receive vigorous exercise daily, and more so on a day when the fear-producing noise is likely to occur. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the noise. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative. Reduce or block the noise level: "White noise," such as running a fan or air conditioner may aid in blocking out some of the fear-producing noise. Playing a TV or radio can have a similar effect. Allowing the pet access to the basement or a room without outside walls or windows may decrease the noise level. Closing the windows and curtains can also help reduce the noise. Some owners have placed foam earplugs or cotton balls in their pets' ears. Create a safe haven: Some pets feel more comfortable in a small space such as a crate or a small room like a bathroom (run the fan and leave the lights on). Some pets seek out the safety of the bathtub or shower during a storm. (Some have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if on tile or porcelain.) If the pet is comfortable in a crate, the crate can be covered with a blanket to add to the feeling of security. The door to the crate should be left open and the pet should not be confined to the crate, which could dramatically increase the stress level. Some pets, especially cats, may find that a closet or area under the bed makes a good retreat. Project a calm attitude: Pets are very aware of the mental state of their owners. If you are worried or nervous, this will add to the pet's fear. Your pet will look to you for direction, so keep an "upbeat" and "in charge" attitude. Maintain good health and nutrition: Health problems may increase the stress level of pets, and increase their anxiety. For instance, a dog in pain because of hip dysplasia may be more irritable and prone to other behavior changes. Diets too high in protein have been linked to some behavioral problems. Consult your veterinarian if you would like advice about changing your pet's diet. Behavior modification: Special techniques can be used to help change the animal's response to the noise. Counterconditioning: Using counterconditioning, the animal is taught to display an acceptable behavior rather than an unacceptable one as a response to a certain stimulus. In this way, a negative stimulus can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm. Dogs who enjoy traveling may be taken for a car ride, or cats who love catnip, may be given their favorite catnip mouse. (Dogs who enjoy swimming will need to wait inside until the storm is over!) After a time, the pet will start associating an oncoming storm with getting to have his favorite thing. Desensitization: Using desensitization, the animal's response is decreased while he is exposed to increasing levels of the fear-producing stimulus. For noise phobias, the animal is taught to be calm when the noise level is low, and then the noise level is gradually increased. This process is generally more successful in dogs than cats. To desensitize a pet to thunderstorms: 1. Obtain a commercial tape of a storm, or tape record one yourself (commercial tapes generally work better). Play the tape at normal volume to determine if it will induce the fear response. If it does, continue with the desensitization; if not, you will need to obtain a different tape. For some animals, a tape alone may not work, since there may be a combination of occurrences that provokes fear, e.g.; thunder plus lightning or changes in barometric pressure. For these animals, darkening the room and adding strobe lights may more closely mimic the storm, and may need to be included in the desensitization process. 2. Play the tape at a volume low enough that the pet is aware of the sound, but it does not induce a fear response. For instance, the ears may be cocked towards the tape player, but you still have the pet's attention. In some instances, that may mean the pet needs to be in a different room from where the tape is playing. While the tape is playing at the low level, engage the pet in an activity in which you give the commands, such as obedience training or performing tricks. Give food or other rewards during the activity when the pet accomplishes what he is supposed to. If the animal shows signs of fear, stop and try again the next day, playing the tape at an even lower level. It is important that the pet not be rewarded while he is fearful or anxious. Sessions should last about 20 minutes. 3. If the animal does not respond fearfully, during the next session, increase the volume slightly. Again, involve the pet in an activity and reward it for obeying commands. Continue increasing the volume gradually for each session. If the pet starts to show fear, decrease the volume. Repeat the sessions in various rooms of the house and with various family members present. 4. When the pet does not show fear when the tape is played at a loud volume, you may want to try playing the tape for a short time while you are absent. Gradually increase the time you are gone while the tape is playing. 5. When the pet appears to have lost his fear, the sessions can be reduced to one per week. In most instances, these sessions will need to be repeated weekly for the life of the pet. 6. During an actual storm, use the same activities and rewards you used in the training sessions. To increase the chances of successful desensitization, the training process should take place during a time of the year when the actual noise will not be encountered: if the pet is afraid of thunder or fireworks, try desensitization during the winter; if afraid of gunshots, the training should take place outside of the hunting season. In most instances, it is best to discontinue any behavior-modifying medications during the desensitization process. Consult with your veterinarian before discontinuing any medications. Conclusion Fear of thunderstorms and other forms of noise phobia are common problems in dogs, and some cats. Administering medications along with changing the pets environment, and using behavior modification techniques can help ease the fear. Above all, do not give your pet any attention or reward when he is showing signs of fear; this will only reinforce the fearful behavior.

From what I have heard this Husky lives in an apartment building which houses numerous children. The Husky from what I heard had been socialized with children and played with them for most its life. It was also very well socialized. Now, it could be that the dog was put in a defense mode the way the child approached it. It could also be that the owner had another dog with it on lead and the Husky reacted differently due to the other dog being there. I don't really know the reason for the attack, but, I do know the dog was immediately put down by choice of the owner. It could also be health related on the part of the Husky. All I have gotten is hear say from friends and the little bit of a write up in the local paper.