RR

Nothing to do with worms, but there seems to be some misconceptions about fasting. This is not a bad or abnormal thing. There is involuntary fasting and voluntary fasting. Some dogs fast themselves naturally. It allows the kidneys, liver and other organs a chance to rest. It also helps for detoxification of any impurities and toxins and allows the system to cleanse and heal. Animals who aren't feeling well will also fast. If this is done the animal should remain inactive and always have access to plenty of water or broth. As well healthy wild animals will gorge and rest for a couple of days because they might not be able to catch dinner for another couple of days. When people say fasting is not good, this is not necessarily true. If the dog is ill, pregnant, older, or such, they should not be fasted for extended time and should be watched closely.

Oh whew, I thought it was a type of diet!!! :tard: Still not anything I would give to my dog.

Wheres the meat? look at the first 3 ingredients, well actually look at almost all of them. Not good!! Do an internet search for premium brands like Wellness, Solid Gold, Canidae, Natural Balance and look at their ingredients and the order of.

Sorry Crested, but YUCK everything below you've listed is terrible with exception to veggies. Just reading this list makes my skin itchy!!!! [quote]Ingredients: Corn (min.14%), vegetabilic proteinextract, meat and meatbiproducts (min 4% chicken, min 4% lamb), vegetabilic biproducts, oils and fats, minerals, east, vegetables (min. 4% carrots) , sugar, milk and milkproducts. [/quote] Corn as the number 1 ingredient? Dogs do not need milk and most definitley not sugar!!!!!!! You just bought it, obviously you won't see any reactions/problems right away, give it time, if you continue to feed that garbage problems are sure to arise.

[color=blue]As long as training is fair, consistent, humane and effective the methods used can vary. I know several trainers who used fall under the misconception that using food was "bribery". These trainers thought "my dog is not going to be bribed into doing what I say." Now after opening their ears and re-evaluating they've found that food is a useful and effective training tool and not bribery. First of all has your puppy had much on leash training? If the leash and collar is new to him, he has to get used to it first. If you drag the dog it will only cause him to resist the training and shut down. Training is supposed to be kept happy and fun. What type of collar are you using on your dog? You need to find what motivates this dog. Food, a toy, a ball? Remember to keep talking to your dog. I often see people concentrating on what they are doing they forget to talk to the dog. Talking to him will help keep his attention and focus on you which is ultimately what you want. Puppies this age love high pitch voices and sounds and are attracted to the noise so a squeaky high voice is best. Food along with a coaxing & praising happy voice is also effective. If you lure a treat in front of him he should be keen to follow. Keep him on one side and reward (treat) appropriate behavior (walking). Don't worry about formal commands like healing or come right now. This is the age where you should start looking into taking some obedience classes which will teach you how to teach your dog. [/color]

[color=blue]Hi there glad to hear your trying this out. Funny usually the dogs eat the meat but not the veggies!! :D Give it a few days to allow for transition. Some dogs have to get used to the taste/texture which is obviously quite different than what he is used to. You could process or blend it all together and serve it up. It also helps if its room temperature. Ice cold meat can be pretty unappealing. Another thing you can do to start is lightly sear the meat for a few seconds, that might help. I know there are certain meats my older dog refuses to touch, and thats fine too, just experiment until you find what your dog does like. Good luck![/color]

[color=blue]Putting him up for stud where? What health tests has he been certified for? OFA's hips & elbows, eyes, heart, hearing, thyroid? Seems to me that if your dog were such an excellent example of the breed (and I am not saying he isn't), breeders would be coming to you to use your male, you wouldn't need to advertise on a dog message board. Is your kennel registered with the AKC? Just because dogs are good at weight pulling does not mean they should be bred. :( This has nothing to do with how healthy the lines are or how the dog conforms to breed standard. :lol: Good call bullygirl :lol: [/color] [quote]It doesn't matter who had the name first; what matters is who the name is registered to. I could pee in a bottle and call it pepsi but that don't mean it is.[/quote]

Cassie wrote: [quote]have you thought about supplementing your Dogs diet with Essential Fatty Acids, these fatty acids help support healthy skin, hair, joints and hearts...Good sources of EFA's include fish, fish oil, some vegetable oils, dark green veggies, eggs, raw nuts & seeds. Flaxseed oils, and eggs from properly fed chickens (free range) offer a good supply of the important omega-3 fatty acids. I am very much a supporter of the BARF diet, I have my Rottie and 3 Newfoundland dogs on it.[/quote] [color=blue]I agree these are great things to add to your dogs diet. If you are thinking in terms of a raw food diet or a home cooked diet invest in a couple of good books. You have to make sure your dogs nutritional needs are being met over time. With the knowledge and studying done the BARF diet is a lot less controversial now and many more (not all but many) vets are accepting and even promoting this diet. Some companies offer prepackaged raw food with all the supplements and everything added which might help to start but can get more expensive then when you do your own raw food & supplements. I'd be careful about using flax seed oil right away as some dogs are irritated by flax. Bens problems may stem from an environmental allergen/irritation instead which can be hard to track down. You mentioned this happened before, could it have been this time last year when new flowers and plants are blooming? Has there been any change in the household products...from changing laundry soap to using fabric softeners, indoor and outdoor chemicals, preservatives in food.....so many possiblities.[/color]

[color=blue]Oh, Crested I am so please to hear this. Good for you. You are doing the right thing!! Best of luck I hope all goes well for Ben!!!!! [/color] :D

[color=blue]........there are no stupid dogs.......er, only stupid people :lol: j/k What breed is Duke? I think you need to change your way of thinking and training methods. First of all do you have your dogs attention? I suppose not if he's running away..........If you don't have his full attention with him *looking* directly at you, it is nearly impossible to train a dog. If he is distracted he will not be watching you. Therefore you can ask him to do something til you are blue in the face....wont matter. First teach him to "look" or "watch" by making eye contact with you. Hold a treat close to your face, move your hand away from your face (he'll be watching the treat) and then say "look" and when he looks back at you REWARD and praise! Consistency is the key, you cant expect a dog to know what your are asking of it unless you practice, practice, practice. If you teach Duke a command be sure to follow through with the praise and reward and use ONE word for each command if you ever want him to successfully learn. Be clear so he understands what you are asking and keep it happy, positive and FUN!!!![/color]

[quote] [color=red]You are so blinded by "conformation only" that you can't see the other side. [/color][/quote] [color=green][b]Forget it. This will go on forever. Essentially we're saying the same thing here. Except my words are being twisted about and from that you are drawing your own false conclusions on my opinions. If being blinded by conformation is a bad thing-------then GUILTY as charged LOL. If you don't have conformation to start-------- meaning STRUCTURE/FORM (not a dog show, not a handling class, not a judge picking the "prettiest" dog, not the best herder or hunter) you have nothing - NO lasting WORKING ability!!! A dogs natural instincts mean nothing if his body can't hold up! As with any PET who is going to be active well into old age, structure is extremely important. It is not the only thing, and I never said it was, there are many things that need to be considered in a good breeding program. *FYI* I am a "show person" as you call it, and would never compromise my breeding program just to "produce a champion" "show" dog. There are no worthless breeds, only worthless breeders. [/b][/color] Poofy wrote:[quote]I have seen dogs that can work, that look nothing like the breed they are supposed to be...and dogs that are picture book perfect, but could not find their way out of a wet paper bag...there is a *balance* between both worlds.[/quote] [b][color=green]I couldn't agree more!!!!!!!! [/color][/b]:D

[color=indigo]My point is being missed completely. It seems, Hobbit that you are so adamantly against conformation showing that you are overlooking my points and more interested in being argumentative on anything I say instead. Referring to conformation showing as being based on "looks" and pretty makes it sound like more of a miss America beauty pageant when it should be far from that. Sure judges put up "pretty" or "showy" or the dog with the nicest expression ---- but all political aspects aside showing is based on structure & function that allows a dog to do the job it was bred for, NOT the objective to produce dogs that will win in the ring. I guess your breed doesn't have unscrupulous breeders putting any two dogs of the same breed together regardless of function/structure, otherwise you'd understand my point ----- they are the ones who feel showing is unecessary because are more intent on making money instead of spending money on their dogs. THESE are the breeders who, I too, was originally referring to. THEY use the breeders before them to ADVERT Ch lines not Ch. dogs of present. I see it all the time in my area from breeders in my breed and they are ruining the breed. Right, you've nothing to apologize for. I understand your dogs aren't recognized, and I don't think you realize you are one of the few who do have enough knowledge in breeding/conformation and for unrecognized breeds that is essential, but most breeders do not have your knowledge therefore need some guidance/education and should put the effort into conformation showing because this is where the learning begins. Only when they learn to watch the effortless movement of a sound dog going around the ring & feel the body for what is correct will they know. A dog show is one of the few places that brings together some of the most knowledgeable people to meet and learn from. Showing in conformation is NOT about a meaningless title of a past, present, or future dog, and it sure isn't about "looking good" its MORE about the effort and the dedication that a breeder of a recognized breed should put into their dogs. [/color]

Whoa Hobbit, im not arguing with or judging you, like yourself I am only stating my opinions. I've no idea what type of breeder you are since I dont know you!!! :lol: Absolutely there is blindness in every possible way. For those who show and for those who dont. I see sick things in the show "world" from people i would expect to love and care for their dogs. I see things from BYBs who dont show that make me wrench. There is a middle ground somewhere.... my statement: [quote]I'm not sure why there is this feeling that Ch. titled dogs are incorrect, and I would definitley question the breeder so against showing.[/quote] should have said ...not sure why there is this feeling that [b]ALL[/b] Ch. titled dogs are incorrect..... Obviously what we see varies from breed/group. I believe I already stated [b] Not all CH. dogs should be bred[/b] I believe in FORM follows FUNCTION so absolutely feel that in working, sporting or any other group there needs to be a conformation standard followed in order for that dog to do the job bred for. Both are needed and both should be proven. Its not always about the immediate "us" yes we all know our dogs are "correct" but I think it conformation/performance sets an example for future novice breeders who dont "know" correct/incorrect and should participate in conformation. There are too many breeders and too many unwanted dogs so I feel anyone breeding should put the effort into showing their dogs that is including in a breeder being the whole package. I make sure I learn something from every show I attend.

[quote]What is more important for breeding: A. a dog/bitch that are titled and may be carriers for a genetic defect, like PRA? B. OR --- an untitled dog/bitch that are genetically sound and correct[/quote] Obviously of the 2 choices B is better. I'd still prefer C. - a correct/sound Ch. title dog in my breeding program, and luckily I have that :lol: :lol: I believe in breeders putting the effort & time into showing dogs. I know I am proud to show mine and have meet some great people through showing, plus it continually allows me to learn. Its far from being "everything" but is one great way for me to see I am continuing to produce dogs who maintain/better the breed. This way I won't lose focus and become kennel blind like so many breeders who only think they have correct dogs. Everyone "knows" their dogs are good but whether they really are can be a different story. :lol: Then there is always D. an untitled dog unsound and incorrect. I'm not sure why there is this feeling that Ch. titled dogs are incorrect, and I would definitley question the breeder so against showing. A responsible breeder is fully involved in their breed.

:) I like and agree with what Djenn has posted about dog foods. If nothing else at least they are putting an awareness out there that many don't know about. I don't know anything about the food they are promoting and still think a fresh food diet is better than any processed diet.

Hip X-rays can be done at any time and age, if you suspect there is a problem talk to your vet about getting an x-ray. The vet him/herself will be able to view the radiographs and identify joint irregularities. The only difference is he can not "certify" and give a rating (like OFA does) but he can see if there is a problem. They may only need to use a mild sedation, just to make the dog drowsy. There are also vets who are bone specialists. Better to know for sure now so you can take preventative measures with an exercise/weight/supplement program to ensure your dog is not putting excess strain on his joints. A vet won't always know the problem just by looking at a dogs walk, and some dogs may appear to be fine. Dysplasia can be hidden if a dog is conditioned and in great shape, but it can become a problem later on, so it would be better to know early on. Excellent idea to have your vet xray while your dog is being neutered!

I agree, there are many "politics" involved with showing. And often "pretty" takes presidence over correctness. Which is wrong. Also professional handlers often have an advantage over novice owner handlers all because they know how to make a dog "look" its best - not that their dog is better. Thankfully there are judges that judge according to breed standard. Crested, even though a Ch title is not everything, I wouldn't discount titles entirely knowing the dogs were at least judged to according to breed standard and there must have been something good about the dog. You're right Linebreeding can cause problems but Linebreeding can also be valuable in a breeding program. I know many generations of linebred dogs who lived long healthy lives. As you gain knowledge in the dog fancy you will come to understand this. Likely some of your all time favorite Cresteds were bred this way. I know for eg. grandfather-grandaughter breeding doesn't sound pleasant but this isn't necessarily a bad thing. When a breeder keeps outcrossing (breeding non relatives)their breeding program they can lose health, soundness, temperament, type and gain a lot of undesirable traits not knowing the full history of the new lines it can be risky! Obviously this isn't the only way of breeding.

:x I agree Prarie & Spirit!! Just hate seeing breeders not involved in conformation ride on previous breeder's coat-tails and all their hard work and use Champion Bloodlines as a ploy to sell their present breeding. Who knows what they've currently bred to. The fact is their dogs could deviate quite a bit from their relatives and breed standard!! I usually find that those advertising Ch. bloodlines are usually BYBs, who give hundreds of excuses why they don't/can't show their dogs! These are usually the people who resort to such tactics in order to sell their puppies because they believe breeding is about making money not spending money on their dogs and showing and NOT because their dog had an accident and couldn't finish, or because they didn't have the time or ability to show. Not that all CH. are worth breeding either, many dogs finish their title shouldn't necessarily be bred, a title doesn't always reflect on the correctness of the dog's structure, soundness and temperament. I think anyone willing to undertake in breeding should be the complete package.

Straying a little I know but in relation I thought it would be interesting to quote what the FDA states about "hypoallergenic" cosmetic products [quote] U. S. Food and Drug Administration Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet December 19, 1994; revised October 18, 2000 HYPOALLERGENIC COSMETICS Hypoallergenic cosmetics are products that manufacturers claim produce fewer allergic reactions than other cosmetic products. Consumers with hypersensitive skin, and even those with "normal" skin, may be led to believe that these products will be gentler to their skin than non-hypoallergenic cosmetics. There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term "hypoallergenic." The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean. Manufacturers of cosmetics labeled as hypoallergenic are not required to submit substantiation of their hypoallergenicity claims to FDA. The term "hypoallergenic" may have considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers on a retail basis, but dermatologists say it has very little meaning. [/quote]

[quote]Maybe it should say "HYPERALLERGENIC TO SOME". .......and ONE size does NOT fit all!!! [/quote] Here Here! :lol:

"In recent years, research has shown several breeds of dogs to have breed-specific allergens, however, no single breed has yet been found more or less allergenic than any other" Taken from this Allerpet website. [url]http://www.allerpet.com/info/brochure2.pdf[/url] Allerpet main site- [url]http://www.allerpet.com/[/url] I know the definition of Hypoallergenic, my point is the word does NOT apply when it comes to dog breeds. Allergies are not breed specific, they can be litter or dog specific. When you say poodles are hypoallergenic that is simply not true. The term hypoallergenic is overused and often a misconception. Certain cosmetic manufacturers claim to use ingredients which lessen irritation but according to the FDA "There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term "hypoallergenic." The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean." As for dogs, they are made up of the same components so how could one breed be less likely to cause allergies? Its not the definition, its the fact that hypoallergenic doesn't apply for all people because not all people react the same. Take two people and you can draw two different conclusions....my best friend for instance, is highly allergic to dogs, for her its everything from saliva to oils in the dogs coat for her a poodle will set off an allergy attack just as easily as a Collie or whatever other dog, there is nothing "hypoallergenic" about it for her. For me dog saliva is mildly irritating from some dogs. Perhaps if poodles and such dogs were miraculously created differently than other dogs and without sebaceous oil glands or skin then maybe i could see them being hypoallergenic but this isn't the case. Alicat did say- [quote]Also, Poodles do not shed in the dog definition of the word, they shed like humans. They also do not have dander. [/quote] I have to disagree, this is not true if Poodles have skin they have dander. Where did you get that info about poodles shedding like humans? Hair loss is hair loss. Poodles shed like any other canine, and even if they did shed like humans (what ever that means) humans lose hair everyday -- hundreds of hairs actually. Curly kinky hair sheds just as any other type of hair. :lol: Those sites you listed are just breeder opinions posted on a website, these breeders are not Allergist or Immunologist specialists. Hypoallergenic would only apply if ALL people allergic to animals did in fact not get as irritated to poodles. As far as I'm concerned breeders are using this as marketing ploy to sell their dogs. All of these sites say the same thing. [url]http://www.consumerhealthreviews.com/articles/Allergies/HypoallergenicPets.htm[/url] [url]http://www.airborne-allergens.com/html/pet-allergies.php3[/url] [url]http://www.yourpet.co.za/articles/dog/caregroom/hypo.asp[/url] [url]http://www.allergies-relief.com/html/control-and-preparedness.php3[/url]

Unless you are getting an adult dog I don't think it is a very good idea to get a second dog (teenage or puppy) until the first one is and adult and mentally mature, as well as fully trained and socialized. Only the very experienced should undertake in raising 2 pups together. Usually the end result is that one or both listen to the other dog over their human counterparts. Plus a fully trained adult can help train the pup where as 2 untrained pups tend to stay "puppylike" for longer. I know in my breed (Ridgebacks) most reputable breeders do not recommend getting another until the first is at least 2 years old. (and RRs do not *always* make the best agility dogs) Why not wait until your staffie is older and start agility with it?

Used to give mine smoked bones long ago before realizing how dangerous they are. Some would be find, others would splinter. To smoke they use nitrates and chemicals which are not good for dogs. Mine are just as happy with the raw bones. Go to your grocery store and ask the meat cutter for femur bones and knuckle bones. People use them for soup bones so most grocery stores do keep them in stock you just have to look carefully. Another option is to visit your pet supply store, many are now carrying raw meat and bones through Raw food companies. You can also do an internet search for retailers in your area.

I hope that you have really listened to the excellent advice you are being given. I think the decision to neuter is an excellent one. I just want to add that many breeders had a "pet" for their first dog which led them into breeding that breed. They never used this pet to breed, but only then did they learn what the breed, the breed standard, and breeding was all about. Are you part of the National Crested club in your Country? Have you started out in junior handling for showing? Once you get involved in this you learn so much more about structure, function etc and will learn how to recognize faults & weaknesses. These are the first things that will get you on your way to becoming a responsible breeder ----breeding hasn't even entered the picture. You say show quality is not really what you are looking for ---- so technically you are not looking for structurally correct dog that conforms to breed standard and is sound in both mind and body??? A Ch should be about more than just a "title". If you do wish to become a responsible breeder is far better for you to research and do all you can to find the most structurally sound bitch from health tested lines who will be your foundation. Hopefully along with that you find your 'mentors'. Any two dogs can be bred but would you want to be known for that or for finding the best possible match (taking pedigree into consideration) with a quality male for your future female and future lines? It is easier to find a the right stud than it is to lease a top female-- not many breeders will give up their best female. You must look at the whole picture, just because there aren't many "true" hairless doesn't mean they are not out there a REPUTABLE breeder will not misrepresent their breed. A good breeder will go to many lengths to import the right dog, and since they don't rely on income from breeding and can support themselves from a job, can afford the best. good luck to you

[quote]Sorry but Poodles ARE hypoallergenic. [/quote] I'd like to know where you've gotten this information. Is this anecdotal evidence or factual? There is no such thing as Hypoallergenic dogs. Unless there is a dog that doesn't produce oil and as mentioned saliva, urine, fur or hair and dander. Allergies are not breed specific but can be specific to a litter. People have different sensitivities, for instance, one person allergic to saliva is not necessarily allergic to fur. The sebaceous glands produce oil which they say is a leading cause of allergies. I have no doubt because of their fur type, poodles are one of the closest to being Hypoallergenic and cause the fewest or mildest reaction. This REDUCES the chance of being allergic for some, but hypoallergenic doesn't exist because ALL animals have sebaceous glands. It is also possible for people once allergic to tolerate their pet and are no longer allergic over time. If you read any consumer or medical reports this will be confirmed.